Hi! I am in the planning stage of renovating nearly all the interior walls in a small terraced house. I am a novice and wonder if I am on the right track or if I should change my plan already.

The walls today consist of painted/wallpapered drywall in worn condition. For simplicity, my idea is to put up renovation drywall/regular drywall on top of the older drywall, putty, and paint. Is it as simple as just identifying studs and screwing onto the old wall? What should I consider? The walls are intact and reasonably even.

One consideration I have about this: outlets and switches will end up 6-13mm "into" the wall because the new drywall sticks out. Are there switches/outlets that are adapted for this? So, slightly "deeper" switches? Or can I unscrew the outlets and attach them to the new drywall without being an electrician?
 
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Mrruo
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If they are wooden studs, it's exactly as you say: find where they are located and screw up. Before buying plasterboard, you should check the distance between the studs. If it's 60cm, buy 120cm wide plasterboards, and if it's 45, go for 90. The seam should be on a stud.

The electricity can usually be mounted further out; the method depends a bit on what type of boxes they are. If they have screws, you can usually just get longer screws. It's not entirely according to the rulebook but works fine in practice. Other boxes don't have screws, in which case claws are used, which usually isn't a problem either. Turn off the power, remove the switch/outlet and mark/photograph clearly which conductors are where in the outlet/switch. Reconnect in the same way after you have mounted the board.
 
Thank you, that sounds like a quite feasible idea! 🙂
 
P
Isn't it better to tear down the old panels if you're going to put up new ones anyway? Then you can add more electrical outlets, something there's always too few of in old houses. If you put new panels on top, you'll have trouble with the trim around all the doors and windows, not fun to add 6/13mm everywhere! It will also be tricky with radiators if you have waterborne heating, as the pipes will be 6/13mm too far in!
 
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BirgitS
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There are extension rings for boxes, usually work well.
 
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cpalm
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mnils said:
Isn't it better to tear down the old panels if you're going to install new ones anyway? Then you can add more electric outlets, which are always too few in old houses. If you put new panels on top, you'll have problems with trim around all the doors and windows, and it's not fun to add 6/13mm everywhere! It will also be awkward with the radiators if you have water-based heating, as the pipes will be 6/13mm too far in!
We're probably going to replace the trim on doors and windows as well. The main reason for wanting to do it this way was to keep it as simple as possible, but tearing down old drywall might not be as time-consuming as I'm convincing myself it is.

Good point about the radiators; I'll have to think about that!
 
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S superlim said:
We will probably replace the trim on doors and windows too. It was mainly to keep it as simple as possible that I want to do it this way, but tearing down old gypsum might not be as time-consuming as I convince myself.

Good point about the elements, I need to think a bit about that!
You can use cladding trim, so it covers the edge of the new gypsum board.

But it's not difficult or hard to tear down gypsum, just very dusty and it creates a lot of debris to take to the dump. In the past, they used nails to put up gypsum, it's easier to take down, just pry or pull with a crowbar, compared to today's screwed ones where you need a magnet to find the screws. The magnet is also a good tip to find the studs, if you find nails/screws, the stud is behind there.
 
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Yes, heel feed sounds like a good solution. An extra layer of plaster, how much does it contribute to soundproofing?
 
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