Building Materials and Construction Technology
Cruzze: Perhaps laid the tiles in a pattern to harmonize with the garden tiles on the ground and the brick wall.
Anonymiserad 618974: [citat] I think an HEB 450 steel beam where the interior walls stood will solve this. You can let it rest on columns of the same beam. Make sure the columns stand on a solid base.
AG A: Masonite of a slightly thicker model works well and is often used as the back of store-bought furniture. The downside is that it is difficult to paint nicely. Therefore, it might be better with a thin plywood. I believe the thinnest is 6mm.
Pickadollen: Hi! We have a raised floor in the family room that has moisture problems. I've been considering replacing it with steel studs and ventilated baseboards (passive ventilation, i.e., no fan - but it is of course possible to install one) - alternatively laying 5 cm of cell foam on the original slab, reinforcing, and casting concrete or using self-leveling compound. Is there anyone who can give
Haz6909: [citat] Exactly what I thought too, but I want to double-check since the walls will then end up on top of the floor chipboard instead of on the joists, if that makes any difference...
BirgitS: [citat] And there it wasn't any asbestos. But the only way to know for sure is to have a piece analyzed.
Davion: [citat] Looks great, and fun to see that it could help this "far" forward in time too - then the thread is a success!
pandalus: Yes, the packaging says 1-2 days. But that time probably refers to floors because you need to be able to walk on the floor to grout it. But my question is about tiles that are on the kitchen wall, do you still need to wait 1 day? It's two pieces of baseboard that were put in as stragglers, the rest has dried for two days. You just want to be done.
Ganescha: [citat] Water was running into the attic space. It took a while before I understood what was causing it. I replaced tiles, fixed the paper by the chimney, re-sealed at metal connections, etc. I thought my seals looked good too, so I didn't suspect them at first.
BirgitS: Did you know that radon comes from blue concrete and not from the ground? Not all blue concrete releases radon.
Oldboy: Even the main unit measures, (but it should probably be placed indoors).
mexximatte: [citat] Thanks for the reply! I have spoken with a construction materials seller who thinks it could have served as a wind barrier but that it may also be a vapor brake. He recommended a woven vapor brake. Not plastic anyway. I have also seen wind paper but unsure if putting paper in the wall is good🤷
Stina Hagman: Milling out and repairing with KC-c mortar? How deep should I mill? The joints currently in place feel quite hard, so I'm thinking it's more cement than usual (?).
MibbeGBG: Hello, I am working on a project where we plan to sink a trampoline into a hole in the lawn so that the trampoline is more or less flush with the lawn. To create the "walls" of the hole, we have built up lecasten. There will be a total of 4 layers of stone (about 80cm), which will then be topped off with some type of paving stone slab. The hope is that the ground pressure will be absorbed as much
Matti_75: With carriage bolt in the holes you already have in the post
Dowser4711: [citat] As mentioned, make sure they are joined together. One option could be to rout tongue and groove into them with a profiling router bit. But, it only helps if the substrate is reasonably stable. If it moves too much, you will get cracks no matter what you do. (Or, well, maybe it can be avoided if you run a roll of fiberglass fabric/renovation wallpaper horizontally over the entire panel)
XLpatte: [citat] Yes, maybe that should have been done. I assessed that it wasn't necessary since I felt that the wall didn't have any direct load on it. (Before I cut the wall, I pushed on it, and it felt "flimsy") I installed three 45/70s that were screwed into each beam and into the ceiling and floor on the wall piece, which is 750mm.
Anonymiserad 405730: I would have removed the plaster so that all modules fit because it's not something that is visible afterwards.
pacman42: You don't have to "force it in" if you just saw off one side of the gate (furthest from the hinges) first, then it doesn't take much force at all to get it in since everything can move a little. Or you can insert the diagonal brace after the whole gate is loosened, but then it's a bit harder to get it right, but it's possible (you might as well have manufactured the gate on the side).
Anonymiserad 405730: Just softly attach these again..
Davve_D: I will go with it, don't really have much choice, it'll probably be fine :) Thanks for the info!
Pyka: [bild] Used this when we installed a rail for closet doors on laminate with texture. Stuck like glue. Also used the tape to re-cover the stair treads with laminate boards. Then I covered maybe a maximum of 10 percent of the surface. The boards haven't come off yet after a few years. How it is to remove after many years is hard to say.
pwb: Have a construction drawing where the designer has specified a glulam floor beam 115x225 mm. Now the building material supplier says that dimension has a long delivery time, which can delay the project. Trying to understand possible alternatives. The lumber yard's suggestion to take 115x315 mm causes a lot of disruption in the construction. And the designer is abroad on vacation. Does anyone know
Henningelvis: Hard to see, but it could be chimney insulation, vermiculite. It looks a bit like gray leca. Might have ended up in the wrong channel.
Hans-Christian Karlberg: [citat] I will also be building a Larsen truss (on-site) in a new two-story building. You can absolutely do this yourself if you're handy with tools. Talk to a local architect to find out connection details to ensure that thermal bridging and moisture reduction are addressed (especially at window, roof, and foundation connections). Make sure ventilation, heating, airtightness, and thermal