Building Materials and Construction Technology
Anonymiserad 405730: At least a month in a good temperature around 10 degrees.. After that, you can dismantle the form and leave behind occasional support at about 1.5 m spacing..
Testarn: [citat] If you mean you're replacing a 45x1xx with two 45x95 where your two 95s have a higher total bending resistance than your 45x1xx? And it's the two 45x95s that would be joined? As long as the load is evenly distributed on both beams, it doesn't matter if they are joined, but if the load is only on one beam, it will matter. Then they must be joined for both beams to be able to carry the
Testarn: 3. Let it be if the appearance doesn't bother you. The plate protects the wind board and stops most of the water/leaves etc that come from above. You'll need to go up and check that leaves haven't accumulated, which bind water and lead to rot in the roof battens from time to time (once a year/every other year). If it turns out that leaves often accumulate, it might be worth addressing then.
Jacobbbbbb: Go for it :) thanks for the input.
Harald Blåtumme: This is completely impossible to answer. Not all lightweight concrete is blue concrete made from alum shale, and not all blue concrete is sources of radon gas. Then there's also the fact that an extreme number of houses in Sweden are built on granite ground that contains uranium, and where radon gas can leak up from underneath. So, it's not only building materials that can be sources of radon.
Häggens: I'm planning to cast a foundation tube about 700 mm into the ground and then secure a 145x145 post using plinth iron. Are these plinth irons sufficient for the load of a gate that opens/closes? https://www.byggmax.se/plintj%C3%A4rn-500mm-p238500 I'm thinking it might be good to use three irons to encircle the post a bit, or is that unnecessary? I think 350 mm plinth iron seems a bit short, but
bluetone: The roof has three layers to keep moisture away. 1. The outer layer, which can be tiles, metal sheets, or whatever roofing material you have 2. The underlay 3. If the underlay starts to leak, the wooden board should swell and seal Normally, 3 should never be necessary; whatever 1 does not manage to handle should be managed by 2. I would prefer the wooden board never gets wet or comes into contact
Trallalaaa: I saw a video on Instagram where Isak Talenhag uses wooden nails, that is, nails made of beech wood that are loaded with a nail gun: [MEDIA=instagram]C_tAyYZoxop[/MEDIA] I don't have a project right now where I can use it but got curious about costs, durability, strength, methods, etc., and couldn't find a thread on the forum. Does anyone have experience?
fribygg: It will hold. If you want to make it cheaper, 20 mm råspont will likely work well for shelves in the garage.
Tbone: The description states that it uses cement mortar s30 as casting material... regular fine concrete would work too but might have slightly larger fractions in it...
Fotografen: ...glue the strip there and putty it, then it's done...
BirgitS: Here you can read about how roof trusses work and how to reinforce a roof truss: https://www.byggahus.se/sa-fungerar-en-takstol About sloped roofs: https://www.byggahus.se/snedtak-mojligheter-och-begransningar Usually, all the walls included in the section drawing are load-bearing. Additionally, there are necessary stabilizing walls.
Isbr: [citat] KMP mysinge. This model looks a bit different nowadays though.
plan-g: [citat] Are you satisfied with Thermomur? Disadvantages?
fb35523: In your own home, no inspection is needed if you do the job yourself, or with help from friends and family. It becomes mandatory only when someone does it as a worker/employee. The title could be asbestinspektör but people in that line of business often work with more generic building inspections, so their title is probably not that. Check with Ocab and Anticimex, they are two main actors.
Anderss60: [citat] Ok, that was clear :-). Why not? Better to repaint the stairs with some anti-slip paint? However, I'm worried about ending up with a bumpy surface (ugly). Any thoughts on that?
neo11: Remove anything that is loose/detached. Rinse away dust with a water hose. Prime and smooth it out with cement mortar A in stages. Primer mortar KC is used on façades, not on the base. No reinforcement/netting is needed.
Davidbagare: https://woody.se/hus-bygg/traprodukter/ytterpanel/profilerade-ytterpanelbrador/grundmalat/22x95-enkelfasspont-grundmalad-60-m-gran-g4-2/22x95-enkelfasspont-grundmalad-60-m-gran-g4-2-42m
Fred Perry: [citat] I am very satisfied. A good solution in many ways. I installed OSB + gypsum.
kasslern: The dog chewed a bit on the wall, and my spontaneous thought is to use filler, but I'm completely inexperienced in this. But do you need to set a corner guard to make it even and neat if/when filling the corners? Am I completely off track, or am I on the right path? [bild] [bild]
Pär Nordqvist: [citat] Thanks for the answer! Yeah, I don't know how it will be. Have to get a carpenter here in any case. The ceiling is very high, 2.88 m. The Tretex boards seem to be of that size, there are no seams. But nowadays there probably aren't such tall boards, regardless of material, I think 2.30 is the max, as ceiling heights are not nearly as big today. Then there's a wood panel that's 49 cm high
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] No, it’s not a problem as long as you remove all loose plaster and pre-wet the wall before applying.. Then it should be post-wet as well so it doesn’t crack unnecessarily.. A low-pressure spray is preferable for the pre and post-wetting.. The following brands are good, Weber, Finja, and Combimix, I would buy one of these😊
Luugen: [citat] What roof did you install that can handle such a low slope?
Rugar_mades: Hello all knowledgeable people! We woke up one day with that hole in the stair step. You can get under the stairs through a hatch, so I was thinking of placing a board underneath and filling it with concrete. Would this work or am I missing something? Thanks in advance!
jalmars: There are really no right or wrong answers here as long as you meet the requirements regarding insulation ability (U-value) and construction (ground pressure, loads from the structure above, etc). I chose lightweight expanded clay aggregate + isodrän underground and insulating blocks (lightweight expanded clay aggregate with a foam core) above ground, which is a fairly common construction, I
Ali83: [citat] It went well. I cast the posts directly into the ground. I put up the wall with pressure-treated beams. On the inside, I laid marplattor and Markduk so the wood doesn't come into contact with earth.