Due to the fact that I will raise the inner floor, I needed to replace the exterior door and have now cut a new opening. Above the door, there were previously lecablocks that were mortared along the edges against other blocks. The rest of the basement is built from a mixture of concrete blocks (hollow bricks) and lecablocks. The house itself is a wooden house.

I needed to get about 3-4 cm above the lecablock. There was some rebar together with concrete there. It looked somewhat brittle. This layer with rebar is about 5 cm thick. There are two rebars across the opening. I need to remove these bars and the concrete that remains after my demolition. But the question is... what should I replace it with? The current one feels far from sturdy.

Since I have some running cables that are close, there isn't much flexibility to work with. A small thought... Would it be possible to bolt a steel profile shaped like a U, which extends a bit along the inside, up and down on the other side?

Or do you have any good suggestions?
 
  • Construction site showing a newly sawed doorway opening with exposed concrete blocks and wiring. Upper beams and a wooden frame are visible inside.
  • Crumbled concrete and exposed rebar above a door opening, showing structural details with electrical cables hanging nearby in a renovation setting.
You mean like a frame of steel? It should work as long as it transfers the pressure from above down to the ground. Two posts and a beam on top. Alternatively, masonry sides (like bricks) with a beam on top of these.
 
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S Småbrukaren said:
You mean like a frame of steel? Should work as long as it transfers the pressure above down to the ground. Two posts and a beam on top.
Alternatively, brick sides (like bricks) with a beam on top of those.
Unfortunately, I don't have space to build up two sides.

It feels like the load in the doorway can't be particularly large.

1) Considering the previous construction, which seems flimsy. It seems like they first built in lecablock above the door with the door in place. Then they poured concrete and two. rebar in. Then they put the other hollow core blocks on top of the casting.


2) It's a wooden house, so there is a beam running across. That should take the greater part. The opening for the door is 91cm.


Shouldn't you just be able to throw up a couple of small steel profiles? Like L-profile or T-profile 40x40mm, 3mm steel? With two L-profiles on each side at the top, slotted into the wall?
 
Could this be an option?

That I move the position of the door, either inward or outward? If so, I might have to move one of today's rebar slightly and then cast them in again. The new beam would then end up approximately level with the lower edge of the door's lintel. Today I had about 89mm from the facade edge to the rebar. The frame is 92mm.

The question is if so...should I have the door flush with the outer wall? Or if I move it in instead (I will extend the drywall on the inside in any case).
 
A Andy82 said:
Could this be an option?

That I move the position of the door, either inwards or outwards? If so, I may need to move one of today's reinforcement bars slightly and then cast them in again. The new beam would then be approximately at the level of the lower edge of the door's lintel. Today I had about 89mm from the facade edge to the reinforcement bar. The frame is 92mm.

The question is if I should have the door flush with the outer wall? Or if I should move it inwards instead (I will extend a gypsum wall on the inside anyway).
The door needs to be essentially flush with the wall you open against. Otherwise, the door leaf will hit the wall, and you won't be able to open it more than about 95 degrees.
 
Viktor.J Viktor.J said:
The door needs to be essentially flush with the wall you open towards. Otherwise, the door leaf will hit the wall, and you can't open more than about 95 degrees.
You're absolutely right.
However, the door has been positioned in such a way that it couldn't be opened more than 95 degrees due to the "basement entrance pit". Now that I've moved the door further in one direction since the door is 5cm wider, the door will now be limited to about 91 degrees. But I think the only option would be to move the door out. Previously, it was set with about a 10cm niche.
 
It ended up that the door was moved out a bit and a similar beam was cast on site. The new one will be stronger than the previous one in any case.
 
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