Building Materials and Construction Technology
larseman: [citat] It becomes twice as strong, i.e., it can handle double the bending moment. If the load is on both, they do not need to be joined at all, at least not from a strength perspective. You achieve exactly the same effect by laying the beams twice as close, e.g., cc 600 instead of 1200. I still don't think it will work, possibly in the ultimate limit state (i.e., the risk of the beam breaking)
Robert_Maria: One advantage of OSB compared to chipboard is that OSB has certain "self-healing" properties. In other words, when you drive a nail for a picture and then remove it, the OSB board "shrinks" around the hole while the chipboard leaves a hole.
anaitis: Will probably go well! A huggmejsel, or several, can be of great help!
AndersG: No problem ;) We did build prefabricated houses and there the elements meant for wet rooms were clearly marked "Saknar fuktspärr". The thing about moisture barriers can be a bit tricky, as double barriers, without ventilation in between, can be very bad.
AndersG: OK. Tar paper behind then? Maybe an air gap so it dries up.
Krudtugle: Does anyone have any experience with creating wet rooms in log houses? For example, is it possible to fully tile, or do the walls move too much? Is it even suitable considering that one might need to replace (parts of) a log in the future and so on? Perhaps it's also not suitable to use moisture barriers in log houses? Anyone have any good literature tips on renovating log houses? I just bought
banana: http://www.dinbyggare.se/artiklar/artikel.asp?docid=396 good luck, I'm working on the same thing, but I'll probably use fusktegel!
Anonymiserad 5589: Don't have an actual drawing to access. But the roof is flat and the wall is studded with 9.5cm x 4.5cm I think with 60cm spacing, is that enough to know? Can you recommend a good place to buy glue-laminated beams cheaply in Gothenburg? Best regards, Dadde
JonasHolm: One can leave the plastic open at the top under the roof, and at the bottom, so the heated air should rise inside the plastic and dry out the facade. /Jonas
morsan: [citat] An earlier thread here on the forum http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Tradgard;action=display;num=1078778421 There is a good book "Gärsgår´n" by Sten Hagander Some links from Google http://web.telia.com/~u16902159/gardsg. http://www.viivilla.se/gordetsjalv.asp?mode=ShowArticle&articleid=1025
matte2k: Similar to Ikea's "HOL"... [bild] But then without the grid pattern if you get it... A bit more like this: [bild] I want to make it as easy to build as possible since I'll have to work on the balcony. Do I need to use treated wood or is it enough to treat it afterwards? It will be outside all year round... It should be built with cheap material, but I want it to have a color tone similar to
LyckeKonsult: I would check with the supplier of your unit to see what solutions they recommend... how hot does it get? Otherwise, do as "Faidos" suggests! And lightweight concrete is not better than Leca!!!
anaitis: I can highly recommend Gösta Hamrin's books on construction technology. Thorough and pedagogical.
kloka_elin: Ok, I get the hint! :) Thanks for all the answers. They weren't exactly gaps, but rather grooves between the tongues, but certainly a liter or two of filler could have run down there... I thought that self-leveling compound was more expensive than regular filler, and therefore should ideally only be used for the actual leveling and not to fill in angles and corners, but see how one can be
MathiasS: Yes, what fits best really depends on what you're actually looking for. Sure, it becomes a floor wall by using floor planks, because that's exactly what it is.... ;) I'm very satisfied with the floor we have on the wall in the new bedroom, just lively enough. However, I can absolutely see the appeal in a much more lively appearance, but that wasn't what we wanted in this case. But it might very
Scrappy: Hello, I used 15mm plywood from K-rauta (quite expensive compared to ByggMax 12mm) but now I think I could park a tank there without any problem... There are different types of plywood, they had never heard of K-plywood at K-rauta... But I chose the strongest one (and not lacquered because I used puretan—or whatever it's called—wood glue) The glue was a bit intense, I test glued a piece that
ungrim_: Okay, then it only remains to find out how to determine if the wall is load-bearing or not.
morsan: No idea :-[ but they used it as cladding on barracks in the past according to Google ;)
mattiasp: Old thread. I noticed that I had written a somewhat difficult-to-understand description. Attaching a sketch of what I meant.
betelgeuze: No, it doesn't, as the beveling is quite a bit "rougher". Looking for recommendations for manufacturers of traditional beveled tiles, thanks. Not tips. I know what I want... ;)
spikmas: Another possibility, if the battens are crossed against the rafter, you can place a fork anchor at every other attachment point to provide more stability.
Niq: If it is extruded acrylic (plexi), there are special cutters that can be scored a number of times and then broken. It is also possible with a circular saw. You can also use a jigsaw, although the risk of cracking is high. Acrylic can be puttied if you want, how long it will last, I don't know. Do not use linseed oil putty.
Lurvnos: I built an inner wall, connecting to the murstock, with steel studs+gypsum with rockwool in between, and during the recent fireplace inspection, the inspector nodded approvingly. Of course, you're not allowed to nail/drill into the murstock, so the nearest stud should just "stand next to" it, and then soft sealant after the gypsum work.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=55918/0]Paint, painting & wallpapering[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
dalle: It's probably just a matter of locating the studs (stud finder or "knock method") and then using slightly longer screws/nails to go through the old drywall and into the studs. You might also place battens in between to facilitate the installation of the new ceiling.
sigpl: It is super difficult to say what order things should be done in when you're not in the middle of it yourself. It usually sorts itself out. But, one can give some advice. Since you will be doing some demolition work, like opening up wells, removing paint, etc. - finish all that before you build anything new. It can be tempting to do something you find constructive in the middle of all the mess,
zico98: Hi. Just wanted to check if everything went well with the transport and if you got any estimate on how much cheaper it is in Poland nowadays, on tiles and ceramics? You might have some examples of prices and pictures :)
AndWig: We build timber frame houses with a masonry basement and concrete vault. Above the concrete vault, there will be two floors. With wooden joists in between. I am now wondering if mineral wool is the best for insulation or if there is something else that is good and cost-effective.
snickarboden: Take out some boxes or similar and look inside the cabinets; there is likely a board quite high up with two screws holding it to the wall. If they are nailed, it will be trickier, but it should work with a reciprocating saw blade behind the board to cut the nails. Another way is to gently wedge it out a bit and see if the nails come out, but this assumes you remove the countertops first. Loosen