Building Materials and Construction Technology
Tina_b: We are going to build a "hole" in the floor and are a bit concerned about one of the ceiling joists as the inner ceiling has a 30-degree angle. I've tried to draw a bit so you can understand what I mean ;) It's joist C I'm wondering about, how should I handle it, should I bevel cut it? How? and in that case, which side should I cut, the outer side or the side towards the ceiling?
banana: there are 1mm ones that some metalworker could probably bend for you, but 1mm probably can't be called a rule ;)
banana: I would probably have started with the available studs (and battens), and if that doesn't matter (perhaps set the studs myself), I would have placed the boards so that I get as many whole boards as possible.[/quote] I agree, the more whole boards, the more easily spackled edges I think, as an amateur.
angelikaj: I will install 4 sliding doors between two walls. As the ceiling is high and the sliding doors won't go all the way up, I somehow need to attach the upper track to some kind of beam. It's about 3.60 between the walls, so it's quite a distance. I will probably use the area above the doors for storage, so there might be some weight on them. Has anyone done something similar and has suggestions on
gretakvist: Great, then I thank you for the advice and will go out to buy these :)
zankan: danogips.se has the same type solutions as gyproc and without reg...
Styx: I usually place perforated straps approximately 1 meter apart in the load-bearing beams, then I nail sparse paneling (raw plan) cc40 in the beams - followed by a coating of choice. If you are going to nail paneling, you can skip the sparse paneling and nail the panels directly into the beams.
Fasting65: Same here. I sold the entire chimney for about 6-8 SEK/brick I think. 3 years later I needed just as many bricks, and had to buy new ones, though I bought from Poland. 1-2 SEK/each, plus shipping it ended up at less than 4 SEK/brick.
matrix: Hi Just wanted to share that the thick wall is now in pieces in the container :) after great advice on the forum, I contacted a structural engineer who came out to check the wall on site. He was initially a bit uncertain because the wall was so thick, he was a bit worried that they hadn't followed the construction drawing and had just copied it from the identical floor above. After a few good
Mats: Look for recycling companies in your area and read the newspaper classifieds. Every now and then, there's usually someone who has replaced windows and is willing to give away the old ones for pickup.
Fredrik1976: we will add extra insulation inside so. it might help! :D
lianin: I drilled and properly inserted a plug before fastening the rule - there were no problems at all. Just make sure the finish is even :)
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=21873/0]Miscellaneous[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
banana: [citat] do you have a photo to post? I am working on something similar and I would love to see others' / your project!?
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=58044/0]Windows & doors[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Faidros: [citat] Sounds like you and TN-Funkis should be brought together. [citat] From the thread "How to get rid of various blast rock? Tips?" http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=thread_deleted9
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=55875/0]Paint, painting & wallpapering[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
LyckeKonsult: Paving bricks are hard-fired, if you strike two bricks against each other it sounds as if they were made of glass... Take the bricks to a retailer who is skilled in bricks!
Mats: The first thing to watch out for is whether the wall is load-bearing. Then you might need a support beam over the new opening. Number two is all the wiring. For the old hole, you frame it, drywall or similar from one side. Then insulate the void for soundproofing, and then put on the "lid."
mattiasp: They have a good installation guide in Acrobat format. If I remember correctly, they recommend a Dewalt saw or a special Decrasax, which they claim can be rented. I have searched for someone who rents it out but have failed. Here is the installation guide. Check page 15 http://www.icopal.se/Icopal_se/Icopal_se.nsf/0/0C152BB039FE48E8C1256DC00035D11E/$file/Icopal_decra_broschyr.pdf
mattiasp: Glue panel(board) is the correct name
ByggaNytt: Sure, the ISO blocks are sufficient and I would have liked to smooth out the inside BUT I have a penchant for extensive electrical/data/alarm/etc. cabling, which means A LOT of VP pipes, so I use 45 mm metal studs and then take the opportunity to throw in some insulation too (above ground)! The plastic on the upper level covers the entire floor because the supplier (Kärhs) wants it that way!
Mats: Place a giveaway ad on some free sites. There's always someone who needs to fill in and stones are perfect for that job.
mattiasp: I asked a few days ago at my lumber yard. Gunnebofastening 75x2,8, plastic-banded, 21 degrees, stainless steel ring shank nails 1500 pcs cost 1700 (+VAT?) http://www.gunnebofastening.se/segbo/notesamp/internet/segbo00008.nsf/viewunid/447E18E140F5ADCBC1256FB900564D43/$file/Bandad_spik.pdf
LyckeKonsult: You should not read such magazines, you get so many ideas, not to mention when the other half gets hold of these journals... don't buy them! ;D ;) I think Fermacell paid heavily to get them to promote their product... surely there's an ad as well???
Mats: I made it very simple for myself by using 125X38 boards laid as decking with a 1-2 cm gap between the planks. That way I avoid the need for tongue and groove and it still ventilates fairly well.
LyckeKonsult: Bring all information to a designer... we should not help you guess in such an important matter! >:( ;)
elof: The simplest solution, which is also both elegant and old-fashioned, is to place a skurklots in the joint between the moldings. Essentially, a simple klots that both moldings meet.