Building Materials and Construction Technology
LyckeKonsult: If it is silicate paint you can test as "gaia" suggests... but it is not always completely matte and not always odorless when you fire it. The silicate paint from our big "dragons" in the paint industry, as far as I know, has silicate paint that is borderline plastic paint due to high amounts of "polymer." Perform another test by wetting the surface, preferably with a little soap/dishwashing
GoForIt: A bit OT perhaps, but you have made sure that the premises are now officially changed to a residential space, right? It can cause a lot of problems otherwise.. As for the cost of the work you have in mind, always aim higher. There is always a tendency for unforeseen issues to come up along the way.
ByggaNytt: No problem, take a look at my beam (90*405) + rafter joint with construction fittings + frallor (French wood screws): http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/kyla_1.jpg
Eklundh: Hello! This summer, my partner and I are considering building a glass-enclosed sunroom. The floor area we plan to build on is 5600 x 4000 = 22.4 sqm. After speaking with various carpenters and receiving a whole range of suggestions on how it should look, we have now decided on a pillar foundation with a wooden frame. This choice is because we live in a townhouse with limited access for a truck
matshermansson: I'm looking at an MDF floorboard for the bathroom. It should be possible to tile directly onto it according to the manufacturer. It might be that MDF is so compact that it doesn't move due to moisture. But on the wall, I would probably still use OSB+Gips.
MathiasS: 45x220 is probably a safe choice for these spans. Install on cc30 to guarantee load-bearing capacity for all conceivable surface layers.
sigpl: It is foolish to both cut studs and break gypsum. Design the wall structure so you can use standard sizes for the gypsum, i.e., only cut the studs.
ByggaNytt: Can make it easier when building but otherwise "it should" be high ceiling ;) http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/kyla_1.jpg http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/kyla_4.jpg
poiu: Hot asphalt with some form of textile reinforcement. Slope = Swedish building standard = puddle.
elof: Can't you make a simple sketch of how it looks, then it will be much easier to give a good explanation.... It's hard to really understand what you mean otherwise.
sjalvdrag: [citat] Sounds nice! Where did you buy it? Maybe a product link you can recommend!
Henrikxx: There should be no problems with condensation or moisture during normal operation since it is non-humid air that is heated by the pipes if installation is done correctly. However, it is recommended not to run heating pipes in exterior walls due to the risk of freezing if the heating stops working while you are away during a cold winter period. If they are only on the inside, the situation is no
Bob_the_builder: Exactly. The reference in this case is Wirsbo's technical support.
GoForIt: [citat] Yes, you could say that. My "boxes" are probably around 120 x 120 cm and 25 cm high. The main thing is that it's gypsum on the inside, and well sealed.
chris47: Cover with rubber sheet. Available for purchase at HCJ, Micro or other car shops. /CC
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=50396/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
matshermansson: [citat] But what type of insulation should be used under the sill and between the hammer beam? Regular insulation?[/quote] Underneath, I took a thin strip of regular fiberglass and applied PU glue. This foams up with the moisture either applied beforehand or from the air's humidity. This seals excellently. The reason I glued was that I have laid underfloor heating under the chipboard, and can
FredrikR: Have you checked with Fiskarhedenvillan? Maybe it’s easiest to do that? ;)
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=18380/0]Water & sewage[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
kloka_elin: I suspect we are talking about different things... This concrete cannot be drilled through in a minute, I'm sure of it! The walls in the house are fine, partly lightweight concrete that's like butter to drill into, but also the more solid cast supporting walls are relatively easy, there you could probably talk about minutes. But the actual vault is something else. Rock-hard concrete with fairly
danieldanieldaniel: Exactly as Stefan says, use 13 mm plasterboard. I only use something else if 13 doesn't work at all, but this is very rare.
skruven61: The same amount of water remains even with people in the tub, therefore you should add the weight of the bathers to the total weight, that is around 450-500 kg/m2 considering a "heavy" floor construction.
krillek: Yes, it might work if the coving is thick enough. I guess I'll just have to test it and see if it works. Thanks for the tips!
hultan: OK, then I'm betting on spiders. Better that than house fungus :) Maybe I should brush up on my old school biology and do some dissecting ...