Building Materials and Construction Technology
Anonymiserad 23608: I have only used an expander once in my 16 years in the industry, and it was for the exact same purpose. The advantage of the expander is that the more you pull/tug on it, the more it expands and the tighter it holds. If the ceiling is well cast all the way down (and only spackled and painted), I don't think it should be a problem. As long as you have a good hammer drill, drilling the holes
pag: Hello, hello and thanks for the answers! I'll see if I can contact a forum colleague and see if I can't suddenly save 600 SEK... Best regards, Pagge
andreashj: Now we are at it again. Can you refresh a painted concrete ceiling with gypsum plaster? I'm thinking of hiring a plastering company for this but I'm a little worried about whether it will last, i.e., no cracks in the future :-) The ceiling is concrete with old plaster. It looks like cheese with lots of drill holes and other things (has been a garage). Some form of paint (probably plastic) is
Mats: At least it has been clearly stated on the back of Cementa's bags, so try to take a look at one next time you're at the hardware store. You're going there to buy cement anyway ;)
pappskallen: Check with the kättingmäster about the brass chain they might have, if not, they might know where you can get such http://www.bemascandinavia.se/ I personally used galvanized ones from biltema.
morsan: Googled a bit ;) Apparently, it's okay to use the same tools as for wood :-/ http://interlam.se/taljsten.html http://www.vetamera.com/Taljsten http://www.sverigelanken.se/J%E4mtland.htm http://www.sodran.com/artikel.asp?id=1265021 http://ns.lindesberg.se/template/Page____3323.asp But be careful if you're drilling, it seems to crack easily ;)
Magnus_Nordmark: I think that sounds like a reasonable workflow. That way, you'll have "real" flooring under everything you're building right now. Keep going!
elof: No, you should absolutely not use finishpron 18 for this, it won't last long. However, you can very well use 601 and buy 2" nails, I have used that for fences and it's still standing :) /elof
Scrappy: Hello, In my basement, we have removed the old main pipe/water pipes and installed new ones. Now there is a shaft that goes from floor to ceiling that I want to close up in the simplest way. Around the shaft, there is plaster on the cast basement wall. Can I glue/screw up a Minerit board? (cement-based, as large as a plasterboard). Or is there something else that might work well? Previously, it
JonasHolm: Yes, I saw it. Seemed to be what I need. Sent an email to Essve last night and asked them for advice. Otherwise, I might just go and visit them. I work only a few kilometers from them. :) We'll see what they reply. /Jonas
Brannmark: You draw both outermost rib posts the same length as they are wide, i.e., so you get a corner as you say. Then it is easier to screw the drywall internally. Then you fill the corner with insulation. On the outside, you still get a good corner for the facade since the nail battens meet in the corner.
Fein: [citat] Well, at least the anchor is gone. It doesn't take hundreds of years to repair a larger hole in drywall either. You just take a suitable piece, hold it against the wall, trace around it, saw, place a piece of wood inside, screw it, and spackle. It might take some time, but on the other hand, it goes very quickly to drill out the anchors so it probably balances out. I haven't encountered
fiddelie: You definitely seem to have a point, it sure feels a bit like a missed thought. One gets a bit curious about how things might be in 10 years???? Should one really have to do the caulking oneself in a house ordered "ready-built" in 2006?? >:( Good factual post, good luck//XII
Ms_IT-Nisse: I agree with you that it gets heavier, but you can indeed manage to raise the blocks without a crane. Our largest block was 8.5 meters and it took 4 people to raise it, the others about 4 meters long we handled with 2 people, (Me and my husband). (Assuming you only need to raise the block and not move it). Regarding "precision" as you mentioned, if the frame's diagonal measurement is correct and
Asterix: I have searched for some information about this here on the forum and elsewhere but only received responses like "difficult" and "think ahead" but I am completely convinced that, as before, I can get help from you on the Forum. The general question is how to create a ventilated air gap when adding new insulation in a house built without air gaps using sawdust as insulation. In my case, it’s
nina74: Thank you so much for the help. I guess I'll have to aim to buy new blocks, it seems. Then I just need to throw on my overalls and take the opportunity to let out some aggression at the same time. :) Thanks once again
aries: Exactly right, now I know it's aerated concrete. No part of the walls is below ground. The floor is at the same level as the ground.
jdb264c: Probably a very simple question. My electrician has made a small chase for cables, the wall is an old brick wall from 1890, with quite porous mortar. I have a sack of house fix at home and am wondering if it is enough to fill with that, or if it needs to be another type of mortar.
haltalotta: It is currently an extension with a kitchen, and it has a regular roof (sloping with an angle on both sides), and I was thinking of raising the roof truss to create a room on the upper floor, maybe around 2.20 in height, and no attic is needed. Just for an additional room with 1 - 2 windows.
LyckeKonsult: I would probably have gone with "EgenHärd:s" solution, but not used the diamond tool... it can become too apparent... It's impossible to repair a pebbledash neatly! To know how you should do it, you need to know that the pebbledash wall you describe is not painted with plastic (take a flake of the surface render and burn it - if it smells, there is plastic - it must be removed in that case
haltalotta: if you want to build a living room extension, 4 x 8 meters, (it's a gable on a house, meaning extending the house by 4 meters) And at the same time make the living room a corner and then lower the floor (because today the floor inside is higher than the ground outside) and with a roof and a stove, etc. How do you proceed? and what might be the cost for such an extension, And can you build
snickarboden: I don't think I would want to build it on site because that requires some machinery for a good finish. Also, it's not easy to saw in 300 mm thick timber *shudder* I would probably make it from 225x45 which I would then glue together, makes it a bit easier to handle. The steps should probably be cut with a table saw or a Festo with a rail and then trim the edge. Make a full-scale drawing on
kristian_Nilsson: Planning to build a laundry room in the basement. Will be installing a new floor and walls with a 5-10 cm air gap all around and underneath. We'll have underfloor heating in the laundry room and aim for good thermal comfort/economy overall. Wondering what framing dimension is suitable/sufficient to retain heat well. The basement is about 10-15 degrees year-round. In short..:) how thick do I need
Rostig_9000i_-88: opettersson -> What other wall covering do you have? And what wall covering do you have behind the radiator today? Maybe a picture so we can help you a little easier?
Stefan_h: I agree with Funkishus_-36 No organic materials in a basement... If you don't want to plaster, then metal studs and drywall...
anaitis: DIP beam is an I-beam with somewhat wider flanges. You can probably find sectional data in e.g. Karlebo handbook.
Femtummen: Thanks for the response! Yes, the proportions can indeed worsen with such an intervention. I took a picture of the house and played around with it in an image editing program to see how a raised roof might look. It could work. Anyway, it seems the price of the house is going beyond our intended budget, so it will probably be another house - without the need for a roof raise.
LyckeKonsult: There are certainly several, but here's one option: http://optiroc.lithoteknik.se/pid/data_sheet/pdf/1901_1.pdf Sika has a lot of variants of additives, so you can surely find something there as well: http://www.sika.se/
jenfor: Check with your local tile dealer. Found similar panels from another brand for less than half the price. Haven't picked them up yet, so I don't remember the brand, but if I remember, I can get back to you.