Building Materials and Construction Technology
TobbeGardner: Thank you for the answer! It confirmed my own thoughts :)
Bosen: Thanks for the tips!! The wall is gypsum on a standing plank wall! The trim is smooth! ...I think I'll get myself a small nail gun :)
zingo: If you are going to do it yourself, I estimate the material cost to be 30-40 depending on the luxury factor. If you are going to hire someone, triple it.
kloka_elin: Thanks for the response! I have talked to my great contact at the paint store, and he claimed to have a good recipe for oak varnish that I will take a look at. If it really works with "fake oak", it sounds like a very good alternative! The moldings themselves might be bought at Byggmax, or perhaps I should support the local sawmill. /Elin
poiu: Plyfa is a type of plywood while OSB is coarsely chopped wood chips. OSB can be broken relatively easily, whereas plywood is not easily broken. I believe that plywood can be classified as puncture-resistant while OSB is not. If you step through plywood, they'll probably have to saw you loose, while it will be a real hole in OSB, according to a builder I've talked to.
banana: CONGRATS :D. WE ALL SAW, (ALMOST ALL OF US) THAT IT WASN'T LOAD-BEARING... HA..HA :-/ WILL BE FUN TO SEE HOW YOU MADE EVERYTHING GO BACK TO THE WAY IT WAS FROM THE BEGINNING...................HA...........HA :D
banana: [citat] DFDS has no departures from there! it will probably be quite expensive to let them handle it!
Rostig_9000i_-88: Agree with ACME regarding frigolitlister. I did this and was very satisfied: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=41280 Personally, I am allergic to skugglister in all their forms, but tastes differ.
Prosit: [citat] Oh, so if I, as I planned, put up studs that are 5-7 cm or so and then insulate the space between the old wall and the new panels, do I not need to install an additional vapor barrier (should I?)? Can’t moisture get into my new insulation then? Or maybe it becomes a risk if I put up more plastic (it’s not good to have two layers that stop moisture I guess - risk of moisture being
sirbo: That's how it turned out, working on a roof is something you don't want to do more than necessary. thank you
sigpl: The normal problem with beams is that they experience significant deflection because they need to span a large distance. In your case, if you're going to attach at 600/1000 mm, that's hardly the issue; rather, it's the attachment points themselves. I think you can check Tibnor's catalog and find a suitable beam, attach it properly, and forget that it wouldn't be able to handle a 1000 kg load.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=14012/0]Foundation & groundwork[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
cy_berg: Thank you for all the opinions and advice! I will try to find someone who knows a bit about korsvirkeshus, but it has been difficult so far.
matshermansson: You should have size 20 if the discs are thicker than 15 mm. There is more info about this under "Tools and machines" http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=thread_deleted5
matshermansson: I have just installed a kitchen in a summer house. However, the wall is not square in the corner where the kitchen counter is placed. When I have put everything together so that cabinets and countertops are straight and nice, there is quite a large gap to the wall in the corner. I would need to "add" about 13 mm for it to be good with the tiles later. How is this best done? I am considering
banana: [citat] just because it is load-bearing doesn't necessarily mean it's loaded at precisely that point, removing the masonite probably won't give any answers!? The beam probably won't "DROP" a bit if you remove them, but!!! if it does then...........Daaaaaaaaaamn!!!!!!!!!!
banana: if you have K-rauta nearby you can check there, I thought I saw a good brochure with them earlier today, then if you want to divide, there are good skummgummiremsor (weird word :-?) with tape on them that you use in such situations. But maybe a regular plank is enough if it's flat, and it shouldn't matter how thickly you spackle as long as the base is rigid, right? :-/
banana: I'm going to see if I can take some cool pictures tomorrow, and put them in here: thanks for thoughts and tips
Mats: Nix, it's a no-go on that. All cables should be approved for the highest possible voltage according to my knowledge (not certified) and HDMI cables are not okay for 230V.
saturnus: Yes, there is mention of clinker cleaner, and before we used hydrochloric acid diluted with water. But be careful, read the instructions carefully. It's important to work quickly and rinse off the cleaner thoroughly when you're done, with water... multiple times, as these cleaning agents are aggressive against the fix/grout=lime.
Dino: Thanks, interesting! Now we don't have a basement and the ground floor is above ground. But the principle might be the same? I'm now hesitating between renovating quickly, i.e. putting insulation on the existing slab and then casting, or breaking it up and doing it according to all the rules of art. And the answer should be obvious... My problem is that both entrances to the house are on the
arny: If you want to lay tiles first, I would leave a proper air gap between the wall and the floor (about 10 cm). If the wall is directly on the floor, it must be waterproofed and clad with tiles along the skirting, so it is better to build the wall first and then tile.
matshermansson: [citat] Yes please! I have plenty of interest. Knowledge is not heavy to carry. Mats
Magnus_Nordmark: [citat] The spring force is indicated on each gas spring, and the stroke length can simply be measured in the store. Unfortunately, I don't think there's a table for it since you usually choose such springs at Biltema based on the car model.
Rodgeman: Hi Googled a bit on the multimastern.. found this.. http://www.kelkoo.se/b/a/ss_fein_multimaster.html
synpunkter: Maybe buy them where it's cheapest and then arrange the sawing somewhere else? :-/
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=50378/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=17467/0]Facade[/link] [move by] MathiasS.