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Mats: Thank you Magnus. I'm adding a little extra reinforcement just for form's ;) sake.
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Ulmian: I will try to fix up a basement corner that was previously an extended paint cabinet. Behind it was a plastered surface (now gone) and a brick wall. I thought I'd continue with the pine panel that is already there. But what can I attach to the wall underneath? I have an area of about 5 cm that needs to be extended, including the panel. I'm considering drilling, plugging, and attaching one-inch
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snuttjulle
snuttjulle: Fun to see that it worked out.
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Magnus_Nordmark: What a shame. Blank skip, in my opinion, only belongs in fine woodworking, and especially not outdoors, but the situation is what it is now. Cold galvanizing is sold in spray cans at places like Jula, Biltema, Clas Ohlson, and similar places.
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Lagavulin
Lagavulin: K24 talks about how many branches can be in the timber and where (distance etc) Magnus
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Fotografen
Fotografen: Oh damn, then it's spritputs I need! I've never understood what the alcohol does in the plaster! ;) Should one apply the plaster, remove excess, and then apply the sprit or apply the sprit directly?
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rudivoller: Thank you for your response! I googled around a bit more yesterday and understand that oil and kitchen countertops are a debated area. But paraffin or linseed oil seems to be the way to go. /Rudi
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matte2k: thank you for all the answers.. did as you said... drilled with a 14mm drill so the contacts went through the holes... it was possible to drill just below the spotlights so one sees no tendency of wires at all, unless you open the cabinets of course :)
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dalachriser: Alright, then it will have to be chisel and hammer on the upper part. Unfortunately, it will have to be an angle grinder on the lower part after I discovered that the window didn't go all the way down to the floor. :( David
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fubar
fubar: From Golvabia: [citat] Should the bottom line be interpreted as the floor being available in two versions - one lacquered and one unlacquered?
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frenchie: Thank you for your response! The questions about this job continue in the post How to cast a footing before masonry? /Best regards, Johan
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Freij: if you haven't checked out the page www.traguiden.se then do so. I have almost gotten answers to all the questions I have as an inexperienced carpenter who wants to do it myself. Best regards, Jonas Freij ;)
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TN-Funkis: I just tore down wallpaper in a wooden house from the 1930s and revealed the masonite which has many small black dots, but only on the masonite panels that are against the exterior walls. Unfortunately, they are so small that they don't even show up in the camera, otherwise, I would have included a picture. Does anyone know a way to determine if it's mold, or is it a false alarm, or what should
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Styx: Must and must, it depends on how good you want the result.. ;) http://www.traguiden.se/templates/PopUp/CommonPopUp.asp?id=1280 There you can see what dimensions you need for different spans.. Now, I don't know what kind of lumber ByggMax has, maybe it's completely unmarked..? Otherwise, you can use 45x195 K12 if it's for a residence, and the span is a maximum of 3m. This on the condition that you
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Mats: There is a small detail. That thing with 3.5 meters between supports. I have a single-story house, but I have about 4 meters between my supports, and it's standard 45X195. It has been standing for 8 winters now, so it looks good.
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JonasHolm: Yes, it feels sad, but the outermost layer is so loose that I suspect the insulation will be filled with gravel if I don't scrape off the worst part. Unfortunately, the render is not as loose, only the outermost layer with gravel. /J
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eskil23: [citat] Only half of it is under water. Depending on the water level, between two and six of the horizontal logs are exposed.
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smiler
smiler: [citat] With the risk of it creeping out later... sure go ahead :)
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MathiasS
MathiasS: [citat] I would use an adhesive that mixes like cement - check out Maxit's range and you'll find a few different options.
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Magnus_Nordmark: I agree with mats_o. When it comes to the dimensioning of columns, it is rarely the stress from the overlying beam that is the limiting factor, but rather the buckling effect that occurs in the column. The longer the column, the more easily it buckles. I don't have figures on what moment of inertia such a wooden column would have, but it would be interesting to calculate this if I can get
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gogu: The branch rules state at least 1.10m, a bit curious about how this is applied across the country ::)
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jernstrom: Ok, thanks! Received a quote now for 30' + VAT for plastering and painting 100 m2 wall including materials. I think the two weeks were the total duration, but he said now that the actual work time would be a little less. So it might be reasonable.
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JonasHolm: Hi Mathias. I ended up ordering at Beijer in Sollentuna since I work right next door. They were very helpful and even checked with Essve if I could purchase through them, and pick up directly from Essve located in Sollentuna, but their warehouse was in Ullrisehamn so it was a bit far to go. I looked at Woody in Huddinge, but they only had MRT's version of facade plug/screw and were not willing to
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snackan68
snackan68: We will investigate further. Just yesterday, lightning struck 15 houses in Nacka/Värmdö! 2 houses caught fire.... I believe that this issue is underestimated by many house builders - they think "it won't happen to me...". On Ingarö, lightning struck a mountain last week and came up in a house! Of course, we will protect all electrical equipment against surges, which is standard today. But we
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hulimskulim: Ohh thank you how smart. They are in piles at IKEA... I was only thinking about Byggmax and similar stores. Great idea /Jessica
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sirbo: Know that Siggesta Trä is back next week. http://www.siggestatra.se/
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JonasHolm: The wind barrier is for the external additional insulation. Now I have bought two rolls of Mataki Halotex W10 at my newly discovered discount store K-Rauta... 8-) /Jonas
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MathiasS
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=31687/0]Roof & attic[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
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rudivoller: Hello, I will soon be purchasing oak countertops for my kitchen. I have a question about the quality of these. Generally, it's said that you get what you pay for. If you buy a screwdriver for 300 SEK, you get something significantly worse than one for 2000 SEK. But does this apply to countertops as well? There is quite a difference in price between different companies. Is there a difference in
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_Valle_: Lifting the thread a bit !! :) I don't understand why stairs have to be so endlessly expensive. The construction has been used for a countless number of years and should be well-established, and otherwise, it's mostly just a bit of wood. We've looked a bit at alternatives to the standard pine staircase and thought of something modern and airy with perhaps an underlying stringer and stainless
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