Building Materials and Construction Technology
Freddy-79: have been thinking and have come up with a plan. Planning to build a frame of chipboard and wooden studs and then paint it with texture paint to make it look plastered or alternatively gypsum plaster it. Just wondering if maybe I should put a layer of 6 mm plasterboard on top of the chipboard so the paint doesn't crack from the chipboard moving?
inkelinus: Hi, I am considering building a Murphy bed with a sofa underneath the bed, so during the day when the bed is folded up, it becomes a sofa with a backrest. Do you have any good tips on how I can proceed? :-?
emilo: Hello. You mean to use the old pipe that was there from the beginning?! I've thought about reusing it and sealing it, but I don't know what can be used for sealing. Can it be sealed with plaster between the metal and brick?? // Emil
Blank: Aha, so it's that much then.. - Well, that option sounds really good! - The advantages I saw with the pipe bed were that you can skip the frame, save centimeters from the bed base to the floor, and you don't need to use the short sides at all to fasten it. The price from Compact living is pretty damn crazy, I'll contact "http://www.carenta.se/" tomorrow to see what their price is, and if so, I'll
Martin_L: Hello! Has anyone converted an upper floor to the ridge in an älvsbyhus? How do you ventilate the truss spaces, is there some kind of vent you can insert into the reinforced plastic or how do you do it? In that case, how did you handle the joint where the masonite meets at the top of the ridge? Some kind of strip, sealant, or windpaper? I would appreciate an answer. M
TMF: I wonder if this is possible without the risk of moisture damage: 1. panel (outer wall) 2. wind barrier 3. cell plastic 4. asphalt board No air gap can fit, I want to have asphalt board as an inner wall because I had some left over. Thankful for answers.
Fein: As usual, I was unclear. The time I used the knock-down + house-fix method, I also had to sand down a lot of old tile adhesive that didn't come off everywhere. In other places, there were big holes in the drywall, so in the end, it was a lunar landscape. Not really boring to spackle, just to sand. Ugh. [citat]
Martin_L: I have a ceiling of reinforced plastic, which I can attach to the underlayment. Then I have a 45mm air gap that the masonite forms. Inside the masonite, the insulation will be placed, followed by the moisture barrier and the gypsum. The plastic is mounted at the underlayment = ok. Then the masonite should be cut out, but it is flammable =?. The insulation is mineral wool, so it holds up, and then
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=50242/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
A_byggingenjor: Oh! maybe that's why they nailed it before ;) As described above.
Staffan1: People often ask here and there if a wall is load-bearing, but how do you actually know if a wall is load-bearing? If you tear down a load-bearing wall, well, you will probably notice that quite clearly, but how do you know when you are looking at a wall. For example, I have a larger, wider garage, with one half for a car and to the right of it is a storage room that is slightly smaller than the
Kasch: Thank you, great idea! Why didn't I think "both and" instead of "either or"...
styrman1: He took 25000:- and I also provided a helper. The chimney is probably closer to 7.5-8 meters high and built with one flue. The stove is quite large though. I think it took about 7 sj pallets with stone.
nicdah: Hello! It probably would have worked to paint over with an oil-based paint and then with water-based again. There were no large areas that I needed to re-spackle, so it wasn't a problem. It was actually the salesperson in the paint store who said that I should remove the spackle and then prime with oil paint. We are all novices in the beginning!!! Best regards / Niclas
Zebben: Where can you buy this? I've searched and searched. It used to be available at OBS for 149:-/100 liters. Very grateful for an answer!
smiler: The risk is that they've become porous and brittle considering the volume increase...
Johan Gunverth: [citat] That's what I did and it works great. The concrete becomes high-gloss, but weathers to a matte surface after a couple of months.
Mikke: Thank you for the response! I have read through the link now. I will lay the chips as floating chips on a rough wooden floor. Should I leave a 10 mm movement allowance to the walls and then glue the sheets together? Where does the screwing part come in? The floor chip will expand during laying? Grateful for your response!
MathiasS: Metal studs are good in basements. What you then cover with is determined by how humid you consider the basement to be.
A_byggingenjor: Yes, of course, I mean 600mm cc. NOT 450mm, you are right Funkis.
Linus_Arthursson: Yields approximately 13 liters from a 25 kg bag. 46 bags then...
polanders: If it's because you don't want visible joints, long lengths might be justified. However, I don't know anyone who specializes in this. You do know that there is end-jointed råspont so you can avoid waste and don't need to joint on a stud.
Magnus_Nordmark: Hello! You need a hefty borehammer and a reciprocating saw or angle grinder to cut all the reinforcement. If you're going to chisel it down by hand, a weekend probably won't be enough, there's a lot of work involved in chiseling! I guess you need to divide the wall to get it out of the room, and that involves a lot of chiseling... Everything is possible, but the impossible takes a little longer ;)
MathiasS: I'm combining your threads about mellanväggar - it makes it a bit more manageable this way... :)
MathiasS: The content of this subject has been moved [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=40837/2#2]HERE[/link] by MathiasS.
NiclasR: I have now been in contact with our stair builder and received an explanation as to why he prefers oil. When you walk on a staircase, you experience pinpoint wear, meaning you walk and wear down more or less the same area all the time. According to him, if you have an oiled staircase, you only need to treat the worn area with new oil instead of sanding down lacquer and re-lacquering. He suggested
MathiasS: [citat] Ok, that's nice so we don't have to argue about this anymore.... ;)