Building Materials and Construction Technology
chris47: Common floor chipboards should not be joined on beams, so it should probably be no problem. 60 or 70 doesn't matter. /CC
Loda: [citat] Change that too!? When is "previously" for you? ROT-Gipsen has been around for at least 10 years.
Eld: I have done this and contacted a constructor who told me to build with 19 cm lecablocks, (existing wall 20 cm thick), which are reinforced with 2 pieces of 8mm rebar every other layer and also attached to the existing hollow block wall with chemical anchors. To prevent the chemical anchor from disappearing into the cavities, you must use a form of "plastic mesh sock" to keep the expansion mass in
greenbay: It is even such that the windyn bulges, and requires thicker nailing battens than if you use utegips or asfaboard. Best regards, greenbay
Ubbe: [citat] Drying cracks occur in the lumber dryer if the wood is dried too aggressively. Unsawn timber does not crack more than a few centimeters in from the end grain. Watering is done partly to keep insects away and partly to prevent the timber from drying. The problem that arises when the timber begins to dry is that it becomes impossible to hit the right measurements during sawing. When wood is
dejmon: c/c 60 doesn't really present any problems. I have c/c 60 with a sparse panel applied on top to fit the underfloor heating plates, then chipboard flooring on all areas where I have laminate or parquet. In spaces with tiles, I also have a gypsum board on top, all to create a dead surface to lay the tiles on, as Bob mentions!!! Big scolding for the plumber, he must have been involved in similar
DennisK: [citat] The background to this slightly strange situation is that we've become impatient since our extension/renovation won't start until the earliest in week 36 - and therefore decided to begin with the kitchen (which would otherwise be done last...) despite it being more cumbersome in several ways (among other things, we don't have much space to put everything that must be moved while we
Nybyggare_Gbg: Hello! Need quick calculation help during holiday times. We just realized we need to install two beams in our floor slab that will be cast this week to build a balcony. We plan to cast in two UPE beams that will extend out into the air. We will place insulation outside the floor slab (but will afford a thermal bridge through the beams). Then we will attach a cast concrete slab or wooden joists as
ppalm: this is otherwise an option [bild] http://www.duracoat.se/
ppalm: oki doki continued with driving cc 50cm. Pppalm
Milkshaken: dejmon: I buy mine at beijer,,,, but I buy a little more then..... I have an account there and get a discount,,,, 15% the thing with beijer in a smaller town at least, is that the service is very good, you can ask for advice, they fetch, they are service-friendly..... I have been several times at cheapy,,,,, Poor selection, unknowledgeable staff, and moreover, they never seem to have time for the
c_vette: Counted using the load program Martinson had and concluded glulam at 115X495 or possibly 115x405 so it's just to forget, didn't want to crouch on the ground floor ::)´ So it's just a matter of hunting down an H/I steel beam in the V-ås area......anyone know who has those?
snackan68: [citat] If you set it to RH - it can never not show a reading. There is always RH in the air. Might have to throw it away... / Snäckan
Milkshaken: I use this mortar for my basement exterior walls,,,, http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=6158 I applied it with Skärslev and kanitz, then I smoothed it out with the kanitsen,,, there's an option to get it as a plastered surface,,, but I chose to brush it afterward and create a bit of a pattern,,, feel free to arm yourself with a smaller paintbrush as well to reach into corners
Mats: Moelven has a program for calculating glulam beams on their website. It might be something.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=7791/0]Deck & patio[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
dejmon: Good tips, but their truss model means you get a sloping eave. I want an overhang at a 90-degree angle to the facade. ..//N
fredwel: Vegtech has a finished system: http://www.vegtech.se/dokument/Grona_Vajern.pdf Probably crazy expensive ;-) Fredrik
altruism: Hi everyone! I have a question. I'm planning to assemble a TV stand/sideboard and was thinking of having sliding doors. My question to you is what is the most convenient way to solve it, meaning the actual track where the doors are supposed to slide. Is there any ready-made list or similar, or do you have to mill out a track in the actual TV stand? Thankful for answers.
chris47: It's not that difficult to calculate actually. I will try to list all the materials we've bought for our upper floor, then you just need to choose the quality, quantity, and check prices on this, alternatively, submit the list to a hardware store and ask for a quote on the material. I assume you only have stairs up and only insulation in the floor frame and no interior walls. Exhaust air heat
mattias_m: It's an old machine, so it's probably not very well sprung. Where can you buy ready-made ones? I want to raise it enough so that I can place boxes underneath, maybe 1m. My girlfriend has back problems, so she wants as straight a posture as possible.
chris47: If it's a large commercial building. Maybe fan intake. :-/ /CC
chris47: Large disc with diamond blade 150mm. Cut around. Just drop the stone on an edge and the pieces will fall apart. Smooth out the middle with the disc. /CC
chris47: Yes, exactly! Masonite can be used, or thin plywood, or sheet metal. You can also purchase this when buying the windows; then it's often bent pine or glued boards. Expensive but simple during installation. Usually, there is a similar reveal on the outside of the window, so the glass is located about 5 cm into the facade. Check how the other windows in the house are placed and preferably use the
dave_R: Hey! Is there anyone here who knows where to get hold of gjutplåtar for träbjälklag, I need it for the bathroom. I called inbeda AB in Lidköping but it turned out to be closed. :( Regards, David in Skåne
drx: www.elbutik.se I am going to install http://www.elbutik.se/?category_id=12376 and, like you, I have a problem with ceiling height...however, I am lowering it by 8 cm (67 cm wood + 12.5 gypsum). My first thought was to install http://www.elbutik.se/?category_id=5899 number 1210 but the additional cost for dimmers and transformers made me, since I had the opportunity, lower the ceiling a bit more.
Hansochhennes: jumping back to the first question... ;) I know that Clas Ohlson sells a small machine for this purpose for around 250 bucks.. electric powered. if I remember correctly they also have those kinds of protective masks.. ;) good luck!