Building Materials and Construction Technology
Draven: Yes, according to maxit there should be no problems. But they wanted to use paper first against the plasterboard. I'm considering primer g?
zingo: http://www.maxbahr.de/maerkte/flensburg/flensburg/index.html http://flensburg-web.de/baumarkt/ Or just google: flensburg baumarkt and the rest will sort itself out ;)
Mats: Styrman. It is reported in Sweden in accordance with Swedish standards
Starfighter: So it was as I thought: If you want the hose under the net, you don't wire it. So I will lay the hose on top and the partition wall will be glued to the concrete. Thanks!
mobo1968: I have a so-called UPE 220 beam that supports an opening of 5 meters. The beam + approx. 60 drilled holes in the same (special solution) cost 4000 SEK.
goranr: Inspired by the "Skarva betong" post, I'm wondering: My garage floor is cracked and has been slightly pushed up right at the door (about a 50x150 cm area is "loose"). Poured slab without insulation (1960s). How do I repair this? My thought is to remove the loose piece and pour new concrete, but will it adhere to the old concrete? Best regards
Katti: We are considering temporarily installing an accumulator tank with a water heater in the house while waiting for the next extension, which will come in 2-3 years. However, I realized that approximately 600 liters of water probably weighs quite a lot. Those of you who have an accumulator tank (or equivalent weight), how is your floor joist dimensioned? I could obviously call the constructor and
mattiasp: [citat] Mast foot for windsurf board? Probably available both as double joint and rubber version if I remember correctly http://butik.surfersparadise.nu/index.php?cPath=21_53
james_83: Hi! I'm planning to build a slope garage with space for pil on the upper floor. Dimensions 5x6 meters. Do I need to reinforce with I beams and pillars? How thick should the vault be? What should be used for reinforcement, dimensions? Thanks in advance James
helenawik: Hello. I have just found this place, and I think I might get help with a question. Have you shopped in any of Estonia/Latvia/Lithuania?? What is cheap and is it worth the hassle? We are going to buy a kitchen, tiles, and floor tiles. Tell me if you know... if you please!! Best regards, Helena
Mats: There is a huge difference in what different building committees and officials require for documentation. The record on one end is held by my father, who drew on regular graph paper and got it approved. An acquaintance I helped was required to have everything fully dimensioned even though 1:100 was specified on the drawing. Like the shell, I have some CAD experience, so I CAD everything, but it
inredare07: :( Building full cabinet doors against a wall from floor to ceiling. Preferably want to use magnetic locks/snappers instead of visible handles. The doors will be 260cm, and I was wondering if it works well with frame doors with veneer panels. They will be a bit larger than standard doors, but so incredibly much more stylish. Tommy
IvarN: [citat] How is a layman supposed to assess what constitutes a "severely" mold-infested part? Currently, there is no scientist, or layman for that matter, who can determine the degree to which mold negatively affects the indoor environment. What those with experience in serious damage investigation know is that there is a connection, but to try to define the discomfort as a function of
ByggaNytt: I only have experience with ISO blocks, which I assume have better insulation capability than Ytong of equivalent thickness. However, what speaks in favor of Ytong must be that it is easier to chase for electricity, plumbing, etc.
ByggaNytt: http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/bygg/bygg_3.jpg http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/vagg.jpg
Anders_Nilsson: Knock out the studs with a screwdriver handle or similar, and attach the brackets directly to the studs or install horizontal studs first. Do not anchor anything in the drywall, as it will eventually give way. Drywall anchors work for lighter loads but these are storage shelves and there's a tendency to overload those :) Drywall is rigid and feels great until it cracks.
lillajuni: ok thanks for the help... yes, gaps are okay so I'll check out the selection of slätspont at brägår'n here in town :) if they even have it... but råspont is still planed on one side since one side is so smooth and nice or am I off track?
Mats: You should use a lot of materials like plaster or render to attach the boards to the wall. To make the seams even, simply press them in equally. There have, among other things, been articles about this in do it yourself/DIY.
Peter776: When (at which phase) of a new construction should one install a dehumidifier and how much should one dehumidify, measured in liters/day or hour? Dehumidify before or after plastering? Would be very grateful if I got some straightforward advice!! //Peter
Ulmian: Planning to attach a wooden threshold in our newly renovated bathroom but wondering how to proceed. Currently, there is an ugly edge of tile and grout visible. There is a square metal rod embedded in the concrete floor. How can you attach a threshold to it? Is there a way to thread the metal rod and use a type of lag screw that works in metal? Otherwise, I would appreciate any tips on glue for
Torpar_Karin: We have the same experiences with Plannja, they delivered the wrong items, were grumpy and very snooty >:( >:( Then our metal roof started losing color and Plannja doesn't even want to discuss the problem, they just said "you might as well paint a little on it." The roof is not older than 4 years!!!!
chris47: I also believe in bonding, but also secure with screws at the edges. Drill 5mm holes with cobalt drill and countersink with 10mm cobalt drill. NOTE!!! Drill sllllooowwwwwly. Use regular plastic plug. /CC
Mats: I would increase to 20 insulation at the bottom if it fits. Building permit/building notification varies among other things with whether one lives in a planned area or not.
tiina: Hi, I'm a bit confused here about what applies regarding moisture barriers between two floors. I'm expanding my current house, and it will be in two stories. The top floor may be unused initially and therefore colder than the lower floor. There is an intermediate floor made of laminated beams and chipboard, etc., between the floors. I'm now wondering if one should have a durable plastic on any
Byggom: But if one would like to fix their chimney, what type of mortar should be used? Plaster mortar C or Plaster mortar B or what? I have some loose stones on the south side.