Building Materials and Construction Technology
markop: Invest in Gärdesgård, material+labor approximately 220 SEK/m......Additionally "maintenance-free"
Mats: There happens to be an article about this in the latest "gör så här". Received it in the mailbox yesterday, so it should be available/coming to newsstands any day now. The alternative is a nice municipal institution known as the biblioteket.
Schwingen: Well, now I have a roof so it's not about large amounts of water..
pixel: I calculate that it should be 1.1 m and it must not be climbable under 0.8 m.
tafkap: It turned out to be mollyexpander and it feels like the lamp is now where it should be. Thank you for the help! /Jonas
swecul: so, now the construction is almost finished, it ended up using 45x45 timber with 1.5 m between the posts and it IS stable.... works really well, there is a horizontal beam that the others stand on... eventually it will probably rot but.... that day .... that grief...
Johan Gunverth: Nail hidden. That usually works fine. Clips are just cumbersome, but the advantage is that you can take down the panel.
Hemmakatten: Just that "assumption part" is the difficult one. I believe there should have been details on the veranda in your construction drawings. We, who are currently building as well (on site), have realized that details on EVERYTHING is what's needed. Thankfully we have a foundation and ground builder and a carpenter who really check in and ask about everything that might be unclear, plus weekly
Mats: For example, Byggmax buys all wood in Sweden, so it's the same basic raw material and as far as I remember, it's the same impregnation class as well. However, the standard tip applies. Calculate exactly what you need and make some calls. When I asked for a price quote for my construction, Beijer suddenly turned out to be cheaper than Byggmax.
Kvarnbonden: Yes, I regret not doing it inside & then using angle irons for the fixing. No, then I listened to the old school. "This is how you do it." Although it was helpful, but... oh, how everything could have been done simpler - and better! Masonite & split masonites (!) as spacers rule by rule... In this case, I was actually thinking about the exterior - there will be new cladding. Shouldn't there also
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=19129/0]Tools, machines and vehicles[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=50291/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Mats: Gravel without being an expert. Do not cast the pipes
Mats: To clarify my previous post, I usually make the corner with a 45X45 and a 45X70 where the 45X70 then goes a little behind the 45X45, for example, two cm so that you can insert a couple of screws or 4".
Mats: If you are going to paint, you should not use impregnated wood, as the paint adheres poorly to the impregnation.
Starfighter: Thank you! Thought they would be tighter, but nothing that can't be sealed with silicone.
snabelars: Okay, so we'll start by asking the board if it's even something to proceed with. Our apartment is at the bottom, I guess that doesn't exactly help? Thanks for the tips
Mattias L.: I had measured carelessly they are 117-118 so it is likely that they have shrunk after the impregnation.
MathiasS: Yes, there were no problems shopping as a privatis. Great store, the only thing missing was a good assortment of screws.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=50296/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
pinebar: Hello! We have a concrete entrance staircase with a basement underneath. It has some moisture damage. Our inspector said all the moisture damage came from above. It has leaked down into the holes where the staircase railing is attached, among other places. He also said that there's no danger with it if we seal the top of the staircase properly. So his recommendation seemed to be to seal the top
kajnys: I was mostly looking to confirm that retaining walls always move. Seldom very much at a time, but regardless of how much they are anchored, they always move a bit and eventually have to be redone. This is according to my own and previous owners of my house experiences over 60 years with two retaining walls. The wall that has held up best has been anchored to a six-ton oil tank in several places,
elof: If it is too uneven, it might be worth framing the wall so you get a completely flat surface. Then you can apply plasterboard, or alternatively OSB/chipboard/plywood and plasterboard. It all depends on how picky one is about irregularities :)
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=50294/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
hajof70: I think I will go the "ramvägen". The depth/width of the frame will be like the shutter, but how thick should the frame where the shutter is attached be?
Novisen1967: [citat] We were also considering that solution for a while after seeing the construction at IKEA but decided against it since we need to store items that take up a bit more space and the kitchen cabinets are too small. During the day, we have put together a frame and covered it with beadboard. Now it's just the doors and a little finishing touch left :D
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=31723/0]Roof & attic[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
dejmon: I only have syllpapp in between, it works perfectly fine !!! ..//N
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=17300/0]Facade[/link] [move by] MathiasS.