Building Materials and Construction Technology
Styx: You can take a look here.. http://www.panelochlist.se/lib/panelochlist_lagerlista.pdf#search=%22panel%20enkelfas%22 and see if you find one you think fits.. It seems a bit much with 23-24mm for interior paneling - but maybe it's something the person who installed it had on hand..? In any case, you can adjust it by placing a board of suitable thickness behind the "new" panel if it's thinner..
Mikael_L: Don't forget that the separating wall must be sealed against any possible car smell (gasoline exhausts, etc.), so make sure to plastic wrap thoroughly there as well. Maybe also consider some moisture protection at the bottom of the wall on the garage side.
Haagbard: [citat] Yeah, I've actually thought a bit along those lines, there have been major problems here with copper thefts too, but now theft of airbags seems to be the new breadwinner for the thieving gang here :-? But well, somehow it has to be sold... the cable ended up "in the open" when I tore down a small outhouse last summer. ...and when I think about it, a relative of mine works at a metal scrap
aRd: Thanks for the answers.... So, I'm not allowed to build over the chimney stack >:( Oh well... I'll try to find a nice way to solve it!!
funkis_-48: We renovated our balcony about 8 years ago. It was in poor condition from when the house was built. Cracks, pits, defects, and moss on the top and also quite a bit on the underside. First, we chipped away at the cracks underneath so that the reinforcement became visible, very rusty. We rented blasting equipment for a day and blasted until the metal was free from rust. The iron railing was also
chris47: I highly recommend that you thoroughly read about this before proceeding at: http://www.paroc.se/channels/se/building+insulation/solutions/roofs+renovation/default.asp /CC
chris47: If it is not a load-bearing wall, you can do this: Insert a standing stud (145*45) horizontally halfway into the vertical ones before cutting them. Below this stud, you should have prepared reinforcements on each side of the opening to support this beam. All reinforcement is done with 145*45 studs. You can then choose to have additional reinforcement upwards by inserting another stud on the other
spocks_beard: Replace them with lecablock with tar paper in between perhaps?
andersmc: I chose the ceiling first. The electrical wiring has to be prepared so that the cables hang down where the interior walls will be. It is undeniably a bit of a hassle. One advantage is that it's possible to move the interior walls in the future. But it's not a clear-cut choice as to which comes first. Both methods have pros and cons.
ByggaNytt: Hmmm, custom-made 45*225*12210 :) http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/stomme/bjalklag_smal_1.jpg
kvistarn: The plaster is up now, went well with just a simple support ;) it was a bit cumbersome, but not really because of the weight, as Fein says, go to the gym, (I myself go 4 times a week).
plf66: Yes, it can be a matter of millimeter precision, so I'm trying to plan before we make any mistakes. A somewhat crucial factor is whether an Ikea 600 cabinet is 600 mm. If it's 595 like my old cabinet frames, then it's great. If it's 600, then it's possible, but it's a tight fit. I'm not getting the kitchen fittings until at the earliest the beginning of Nov, so we have some time to plan, and I
d-sajn: I am going to install a geothermal heat pump with a built-in water heater and want to avoid potential structure-borne noise in the wooden flooring. So, how should I do it? Should I cast some kind of slab and if so, how is it done, or should one create some kind of form down to the ground and fill it with gravel up to the top edge of the floor joists? ...or are there better solutions?
kajsae: Thanks for the tip, the vandal has been around and all three bases with poles need to be moved. The news was received quite well. ;D
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=50197/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
ByggPutte: If you have large holes, you can first cast with aps-cement, then a fine batch with Quick concrete. Regards, Putte
ByggPutte: Splice over the post with nail plates on each side and anchor screws, it works fine. Best regards, Putte
perobe: Yes, basically you cut with a stone slab and then chip out the concrete. You'll probably need to cut from both the inside and outside, so first draw how you will cut on one side and then drill 2 holes in each corner to avoid precise measurements on the other side. I would say it's impossible to mess up the hole so much that you have to pour concrete after you've cut. You put a foder over the
zankan: I apologize if I went a bit overboard with my last post... I blame it on having a bad day... ::) Sawdust is not directly soundproofing either... Wood is generally quite useless overall as it has a tricky density and so on... And sure, insulation helps to increase the overall soundproofing, but not as much as you might think. 1/3 of the space needs to be insulated to achieve maximum effect. At the
ByggPutte: You don't have the option to remove just those cabinets and install a wood stove instead? 8-) Best regards, Putte
snackan68: The number of battens has to do with how high the paneling should be... // Snäckan
Haagbard: Maybe: HANRIIS STENVERKSTAD AB HANDÖL 1054 DUVED 0640-62204 SWEDISH SOAPSTONE AB HANDÖL 1050 DUVED 0647-72080
Haegermeister: [citat] Hmm how's it going with the calculations :-/
Mats: Spontaneously, I think 120 mm insulation sounds like a good idea. Theoretically, 145 should fit exactly, but I would probably go with 120 just to be safe.
Newman: Hello. I've heard that some people cover their basement walls with lightweight concrete boards. Is there anyone here who has done that? Do you do it just to get a smooth wall, or does it also have some insulating effect? I've just had to tear out my finished basement after some mold damage, and I'm looking for alternatives for the interior walls since they don't look too great after the
Mannesson: Usually stated on the packaging, it's about a drying time of 1-3 hours if I remember correctly. Don't forget to thin it if you're priming on concrete (absorbent surface).