I am planning the purchases for the winter's complete kitchen renovation.
Kitchen cabinets, tiles, appliances etc. will be placed along two of the kitchen's four walls.
I have good experience with using OSB combined with drywall in other rooms. It results in stable walls with plenty of options for screwing.
Can you tile directly on OSB in a kitchen if I skip the drywall layer? I have no use for a smooth drywall layer since the wall cabinets will go all the way to the ceiling. OSB has a thin wax layer, and the adhesive might not stick there?
I would like OSB since it's handy to be able to screw and nail almost anywhere.
Experiences/opinions?
Kitchen cabinets, tiles, appliances etc. will be placed along two of the kitchen's four walls.
I have good experience with using OSB combined with drywall in other rooms. It results in stable walls with plenty of options for screwing.
Can you tile directly on OSB in a kitchen if I skip the drywall layer? I have no use for a smooth drywall layer since the wall cabinets will go all the way to the ceiling. OSB has a thin wax layer, and the adhesive might not stick there?
I would like OSB since it's handy to be able to screw and nail almost anywhere.
Experiences/opinions?
I say, no. OSB is a living material which may move significantly less than wood planks, but it still moves nonetheless. I would put OSB and plasterboard on top, then you'll have a good surface to tile on, and at the same time, you can screw up whatever you want.
No way, tiling on wood material that moves with varying temperature and humidity is a no-no.
The easiest solution is to put drywall everywhere, even behind the cabinets, just as you did in other rooms. If you only put drywall where the tiles are supposed to be, you might end up with a troublesome edge to hide if the tiles don't end against a cabinet on both sides.
However you do it, forget about tiling on OSB or other wood sheets.
The easiest solution is to put drywall everywhere, even behind the cabinets, just as you did in other rooms. If you only put drywall where the tiles are supposed to be, you might end up with a troublesome edge to hide if the tiles don't end against a cabinet on both sides.
However you do it, forget about tiling on OSB or other wood sheets.
Thank you, sometimes you need those obvious kicks in the butt. :
I didn't think about the fact that osb moves....
My idea was to save a few mm in thickness and skip the plaster.
So the alternatives would then be OSB + plaster (6 or 12 mm....) or just 12 mm plaster. I don't really like plaster, but I guess I'll have to bite the bullet here as well.
In some cases, I can put osb + 12 mm plaster on one wall where I don't have a tight fit to get the cabinets in. Why are all the walls always 5 cm too short??? ;D
I didn't think about the fact that osb moves....My idea was to save a few mm in thickness and skip the plaster.
So the alternatives would then be OSB + plaster (6 or 12 mm....) or just 12 mm plaster. I don't really like plaster, but I guess I'll have to bite the bullet here as well.
In some cases, I can put osb + 12 mm plaster on one wall where I don't have a tight fit to get the cabinets in. Why are all the walls always 5 cm too short??? ;D
Ok, you have some "millimeter problems".....
But how does it look, do you have an open end on the tile or does it always end against a cabinet?
If you only put drywall where the tile is supposed to be, you can always finish with a trim that matches the rest of the kitchen.
But how does it look, do you have an open end on the tile or does it always end against a cabinet?
If you only put drywall where the tile is supposed to be, you can always finish with a trim that matches the rest of the kitchen.
Yes, it can be a matter of millimeter precision, so I'm trying to plan before we make any mistakes.
A somewhat crucial factor is whether an Ikea 600 cabinet is 600 mm. If it's 595 like my old cabinet frames, then it's great. If it's 600, then it's possible, but it's a tight fit.
I'm not getting the kitchen fittings until at the earliest the beginning of Nov, so we have some time to plan, and I haven't chosen the tiles yet.
But the tiles should not have any free edges, but instead, they should go against cabinets everywhere. I'll arrange pictures of the planned kitchen later, but I haven't started the renovation webpage yet.
There might be one place with a free edge, and that's the surface behind the stove. We have a "regular" stove (Electrolux EKD60150 bought yesterday). Either I end the tiles at the edge of it, as has been done before in the kitchen, or I practice tiling and set behind the stove all the way down to the floor. Depends on what the tiles cost. The downside is that the stove might stick out about 1 cm, so I need to measure there as well.
But I realize that I essentially have to go with gypsum backing, because I don't want cracks in the joints.
A somewhat crucial factor is whether an Ikea 600 cabinet is 600 mm. If it's 595 like my old cabinet frames, then it's great. If it's 600, then it's possible, but it's a tight fit.
I'm not getting the kitchen fittings until at the earliest the beginning of Nov, so we have some time to plan, and I haven't chosen the tiles yet.
But the tiles should not have any free edges, but instead, they should go against cabinets everywhere. I'll arrange pictures of the planned kitchen later, but I haven't started the renovation webpage yet.
There might be one place with a free edge, and that's the surface behind the stove. We have a "regular" stove (Electrolux EKD60150 bought yesterday). Either I end the tiles at the edge of it, as has been done before in the kitchen, or I practice tiling and set behind the stove all the way down to the floor. Depends on what the tiles cost. The downside is that the stove might stick out about 1 cm, so I need to measure there as well.
But I realize that I essentially have to go with gypsum backing, because I don't want cracks in the joints.