Building Materials and Construction Technology
spocks_beard: Has it been 30 years what should happen? Creaking often occurs because the boards/treads are not lying flush against the substrate. Screw, glue, wedges?
ByggPutte: Is it plasma or LCD? Size/weight? It usually says on the molly expander how much weight it can hold. Best regards, Putte
kungen_72: Render C works perfectly, apply reinforcement mesh where you are going to render to minimize the risk of cracking. The mesh is available in building supply stores and is slightly stronger than chicken wire and has square holes. That's what I did and it hasn't cracked even though we've been burning like crazy in our insert. :D
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=59312/0]Biofuel[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Callew: Hello! We are going to build a leisure cabin in timber (80sqm) this spring and of course, we want to buy the cheapest materials possible. Is there anyone out there with experience in purchasing in the Baltics? We would like to have the following questions answered: - Do they have a similar range to ours and do they have the same standards in terms of building measurements, etc.? - Approximate
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=thread_deleted3/0]Heat in general[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
ylven: [citat] Yes, and that's why people get pleural cancer even without being consciously exposed to asbestos, as it is present everywhere around us! Pleural cancer is a highly unpleasant disease that only exists in societies where there is asbestos. Therefore, I would observe all possible precautions if I were to take down asbestos-cement boards in my basement.
snuttjulle: Must depend on how large the amounts are when you say rainwater. When I tore up in the basement, a leaking water pipe was discovered that had probably leaked for a long time and on the outside of the träullit nothing of this leak was visible. However, it was visible on the träullit and on the concrete hollow block. So I can very well imagine that the träullit concealed the rainwater for you,
nomis: I would recommend a steel frame. Easier to set up. Sometimes you can find used frames in advertisements that can be affordable. Additionally, I know someone who has a steel frame available, approximately 18x25m. Nice trusses without tension ties (open up inside the ridge). But it does cost...
zaxter: It is a small villa for year-round living. I might mention that it was additionally insulated on the outside during the 70s.
gimarho: Where can I get that kind of brass strip with grooves for the stairs? :-? I've looked online quite a bit but haven't managed to find any...
Hermes: Hello - I am planning to renovate and partially extend an older house. I want to raise the ceiling height from approximately 3 m to 3.5 m (partly to install taller windows, partly to achieve better proportions in a new larger room). Since the house, which is shaped like a long building with an unbroken gable roof, will not only be lengthened but also widened, perhaps the current roof trusses
andreas_eriksson: Hi, I am renovating the attic of an old plank house and have heard that you can staple regular wind barrier paper as a condensation protection directly onto the rafters and let the old shingle roof serve as a vented space. Does anyone know if this is correct? So I dare to do it that way. Regards, A. Eriksson
Anonymiserad 23608: Also buy the right type of plug - Nylon plugs, not the usual yellow, red, brown, or blue plastic plugs. 95% of all wood screws sold are hardened and sharp, and they cut into the plastic plug, whereas a nylon plug resists and expands instead.
Ingenjören: The chimney sweep at home charged 1250 SEK including VAT for inspection including pressure testing of two flues (for the open fireplace and tiled stove) + tightness testing of the tiled stove itself. /Ingenjören
poiu: Since I usually play the devil's advocate, or the contrary old lady. Your choice. :) I can't help but question a bit more. LyckeK wrote: [citat] Do we really have such a good handle on where the water runs in the mineral wool? It has a bunch of fibers to run along, and are we truly guaranteed that it doesn't follow fibers inwards towards the underlying wall? Next question is purely about moisture
hempularen: Regarding dust. Last time I rented a machine, I saw a gadget I had never seen before. It was a vacuum that looked like a piece of wall about 1 square meter. It had a large filter surface and sucked over the entire area. The idea was to set it up near the workplace, and apparently, it blows out fresh dust-free air on the backside.
pinebar: :D This is starting to sound like a fun ad I read once where they rented out a former sheep house in two floors with an airy layout without walls..... He probably meant that none of the interior walls are load-bearing. The exterior walls that are not gables are probably load-bearing. If you want a better answer, I recommend you hire an hour or two from a structural engineer and ask him to look at
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=thread_deleted9/0]Roof & attic[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
hanna1: I am considering making my own countertops from sheesham wood and therefore wonder where I can buy it.
nimhed: [citat] If you're satisfied that your wall insulates as well as a good window, I think you might be a bit off. A wall should be significantly better than a window, regardless of the window's quality.
Martin_L: Yes, you probably need an expander that snaps on the backside of the gypsum. If the lamp doesn't weigh much, there are smaller plastic expanders (white) that you can buy (instead of metal). They don't show as much.
Eld: The form must be tight. Concrete slurry will leak through a gap that is only a few mm wide when you vibrate, resulting in poorer quality concrete inside because there will be too little water and fine fractions left in the form right there.
Mats: Screw. Gentler on the wall and easier to handle. Then you can put it in reverse if you have done something a little less "good".
synpunkter: The question of plaster on basement walls has been discussed a bit before here on the forum. LyckeK seems to be a guy you can't argue with when it comes to plaster and mortar matters, but Maxit's support has advised me twice against plastering basement walls below ground with gypsum plaster if there is a certain "moisture risk." For that reason, I will personally plaster all outer basement walls
Mikael_L: Nice that it was resolved so smoothly!!! cc60 and cc120 are common, but if the bjälklag has a floor on the top side, I think cc60 is what applies in most cases...or?
Snigel: Well...the problem is that we already have a sofa that will be in front of the storage gadget, and that sofa has a sleeping place. Plus, we also have the mattress, so the alternative would be to throw out a fully functional mattress and a relatively new sofa to buy a new sofa bed that doesn't have the same sleeping comfort at all.
masse5_4: I have only calculated up to the paper and battens on the roof and materials for the floor and walls inside including doors and windows as well as electricity.