Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mats: Spontaneously, I think 120 mm insulation sounds like a good idea. Theoretically, 145 should fit exactly, but I would probably go with 120 just to be safe.
Newman: Hello. I've heard that some people cover their basement walls with lightweight concrete boards. Is there anyone here who has done that? Do you do it just to get a smooth wall, or does it also have some insulating effect? I've just had to tear out my finished basement after some mold damage, and I'm looking for alternatives for the interior walls since they don't look too great after the
Mannesson: Usually stated on the packaging, it's about a drying time of 1-3 hours if I remember correctly. Don't forget to thin it if you're priming on concrete (absorbent surface).
Mats: I have plastic where I made penetrations in my L-elements but it's the same temperature on both sides. The idea is that there shouldn't be any standing water in the hose so it shouldn't be a problem.
Mats: The nice thing about the fabric is that it releases moisture/water in one direction and is waterproof in the other. I actually used a leftover piece as a tarp for a while.
ByggaNytt: Even an advantage to turn the blocks upside down in the top course for, for example, the interior walls ;) http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/murning/
wbghandi: Hello! I have 4 swing doors, and there are panels on them, so now the panels are twisted and dry as tinder (cracks). My question is, aren't there ready-made boards that can be mounted on the garage doors? Where can these be bought? Price?
Mats: I had the parocs variant btw. Had a friend who is a former carpenter as my material chooser, so it was easy in that part. Gypsum always has the fire protection advantage, the downside is the weight.
Mikael_L: [citat] Exactly, others describe it the same way. But you definitely don't need as strong a glulam beam as the ridge beam. With only a one-meter span, you should manage with much less, maybe even 2 pcs 220x45 nailed together, but without knowing what load your roof is calculated to bear, it's impossible to say what dimension you need. I can't do such calculations, but if you're keen to use
pinebar: Hello! We will also use plyfa that is just as thick (and cut to the same width) as the other window trims for our round window. I don't think it will be that noticeable that it isn't "hairy" like the others. You might be able to roll it a bit with some type of putty before painting it if you want to get a slightly uneven texture on it as well. Best, /pinebar
guran1: Hello! I am planning to add an upper floor to my existing house and need to install a steel beam in the floor structure to ensure everything is stable. Does anyone have ideas on how to easily integrate it into the floor structure and install new floor joists? I think I know how to do it but would love to hear other ideas. The ceiling on the floor below is not nailed to the old roof truss beams
Silverfisk91: Thank you for the answers! Is there a way to do it without a 50 mm stone wool slab, it's a dormer that needs to be plastered and I would prefer that the walls don't become too thick.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=57814/0]Windows & doors[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
JohanP: Hello! I am planning to build a house and garage with lightweight concrete from the brand Ytong. The idea is to purchase it myself from Poland, but without having to travel there, only through phone/email contact. Does anyone have experience with sourcing Ytong from Poland? Is it profitable? Can anyone share a Polish contact or Polish supplier that has Ytong? Is there a price list online for
robb@n74: I am going to build an apartment above the garage, the garage is well insulated, but I don't know how much heat I will have on in the future.. :-/ There are underfloor heating coils embedded, so there will probably be some base heat ::) but not over 12 degrees in winter at least. Should I use a vapor barrier, and if so, where should I place it, in the garage ceiling or under the subfloor?
Mikael_L: Hmm A circular jig like that doesn't seem too difficult to make for your own jigsaw, a "metal strip" of the right dimension, and a hole at the end of the strip. Then you put a small screw or nail in the hole! I think I'll make one for my saw :D
Mikael_L: Do you have underfloor heating? If so, consider the spike/screw depth.
Fehnik: One option is to do as we did with the conservatory last summer, screw a 45x45 and "hang" the beam on it. Although I don't really know how to do it in your case, we placed a 45x45 on one of the support beams for the roof and notched the beams so they fit. I'll try some ASCII art below.... |L------------| |#L_______| Not sure if you understand what I mean.
ByggPutte: Wedge up the windows and drill with the frame drill through the window into the 45. This way, you get a drilled hole that fits the frame screw without cracking. Best regards, Putte
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=50208/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Eklundh: Hello! I have a small problem I hope someone here can help me with. In the spring, we are going to build a sunroom. The width for this will be 5.7m and the depth 3.8m. Most sunrooms I have seen have a post in the middle to support the roof and avoid sagging. My question is as follows: What dimension do you need to go up to in order to avoid the pillar in the middle? I have considered
pixel: Have you read through this? http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=40336/0
lier: 3-4cm doesn't have much significance.... Except to ensure that wardrobes fit, as Mats said. :)
Larsa: To bend wood, it should be steamed. You can use a spiral tube, which you somehow cleverly connect to a pot of boiling water. Insulate the tube so the steam doesn't cool down immediately. One option is to place a 100 mm tube inside a 150 mm tube. Fix it with construction foam at the ends. Then just insert a wooden stick into the tube, and after a while, take it out and bend it; let it cool and dry
Mats: As mentioned, rather OSB or chipboard for the bottom layer and then plasterboard on top.
Mats: Yup, they do. Have bought 2000+ screws there. No clue where they've hidden it on the website.
alacs: Probably the wrong forum, but I can't find a better place to post the question. We're planning to renovate our home and intend to take down some walls. The problem is that there are no construction drawings for the house, so we don't know ourselves which walls are load-bearing/non-load-bearing. So, I'm thinking of contacting someone for help to determine what might be what, but WHO do I contact?
midvinter: Short-term measurements have been made earlier, 160 Bq in the basement room, and 250 Bq in the bedroom which has a door open to the former garage. The previous owner had made an office in part of the former garage. The question is whether the radon is coming from the former garage... How can you determine if the radon is coming from the ground or the building material? I find it strange to get a