Building Materials and Construction Technology
Snurre: Jula sells a so-called joint cutter, an accessory that you attach to an angle grinder that makes it easier to remove old joints. However, be careful as it is quite easy to cut into the brick as well. But you learn this quickly. If you don't know which joint mortar has been used, make sure you don't use one that's too hard. A standard KC mortar works in most cases. Place some mortar on a trowel,
Strixx: I have a soapstone stove weighing 500kg standing on tiles, no problem. The tiles are set on floor gypsum board which in turn is screwed and glued onto floor chipboard.
zankan: Not squeezing the frame is actually the least of the problems with the work itself.... You leave the sash/door leaf in place and insert hardboard every 20 c/c or something between the door leaf and frame... Voila, you've solved that issue... However, foam insulation is a product that I personally do not recommend if there are other alternatives since it is not completely safe to work with... But,
Mats: I've never actually tried with sheep, but reinforcement mesh works fine as a fence for turkeys at least. It turned into a quick enclosure build one evening, a bit unplanned let's say.
Herr_Bygg: Can you remove all the soot so that a new layer adheres? Is the chimney frost-, moisture-damaged /loosened? Why not install a stainless-steel flex pipe instead?
Herr_Bygg: I've heard that the concrete more easily flows through the gaps, which are difficult to avoid for example with edge molds for slab on ground.
MathiasS: [citat] That's how I see it too, and therefore it can (surely within some reasonable limits) sit there for as long as needed before setting the tiles. It's completely reasonable that one might need to wipe off a primed surface that has become dusty, but that doesn't detract from the primer's function.
peterce: Now I have injected a whole lot of foam. When I opened the ceiling panel, dolomite gravel absolutely poured down. It filled up half a paper bag before it subsided! A little foam at a time, wait an hour for surface dryness, then add the next. A big advantage was that the dolomite gravel flowed quite easily, so no cavities appeared where the foam didn't reach. Now I'm waiting overnight to let it
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=50181/0]Insulation[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
Mats: Either you frame a wall in the attic along the current exterior walls and insulate it like an exterior wall. This way you get a loft and a cold attic. The alternative is to insulate the floor against the veranda and then insulate the existing walls. This gives a bigger loft but no attic at all.
TN: A method I used to use in a house where large craters always formed every time a hole was drilled was as follows: 1) Drill where I wanted 2) Fill the large hole with filler 3) Press a wall plug into the filler where it was intended to go 4) Let the filler dry 5) Screw in the hook for the painting or whatever it was that needed to be hung In short, it always took a couple of days to hang a
andersmc: Sure, if you have the studs ready, then for heaven's sake, put up OSB+gypsum. The outdoor gypsum has a surface treated with something (wax?) which is supposed to make it more resistant to moisture. This might possibly make it harder to paint, but I don't think it's a big problem. Just give it a try.
Draven: Thank you for all the help, it will probably be an oiled oak staircase...
andersmc: Sure, "real" nail. I also have a brad nailer, but I use it for nailing trims. You shouldn't perceive the brad nailer as a cheap version of a nail gun. They are two different tools with different applications. But both are great for what they are intended for.
styrman1: Ask the staff at byggmax but then ask the manufacturer. It's usually indicated on the bundles who makes or imports them. Would be fun if you got the same answer from both...
procyon: [citat] Thank you for your reply. I am also convinced that drainage/insulation on the outside is the best option. However, I live in a condominium with my own basement, and this question is therefore of a collective nature. I have torn down an old wood wool mat from one of the exterior walls and only framed and put up gypsum with an air gap. So, not insulated. I heard someone mention that you
Pius: Thanks for the tips! It seems like there isn't cellulose on a "roll", but loose fill is the option. The tip about linull seems interesting, though; I will find out more about it. We have heard about flax insulation before but dismissed it as "extreme", but maybe it's something after all. It's probably quite expensive, but that's something we'll have to accept. We've decided we want to build
MatsT: I think ByggaNytt is looking to see if the basement wall is insulated/moisture-proofed. Check the external drainage, is there a Platon membrane? Drainage around the entire house, etc. Built in 1945, so you probably have no previous external insulation, but when the drainage was done in 2002, insulation might have been added. If nothing has been done with the basement, then you probably have just
wennersten: I am currently renovating my barn interior; it will become a woodworking workshop once finished. The walls are made of brick with few remnants of lime mortar plaster. I want to replaster the walls with lime mortar or KC mortar. My question, can you rent some kind of sprayer to apply the plaster? How should it be mixed to be suitable for spraying? I have seen so-called funnel sprayers, but they
¤ akila ¤: Hello Carla! How did it go with the roof? We've put up our spruce panel and painted it covering white now. And it turned out just like we wanted with gaps :D Some gaps of varying widths, some with paint in them and the occasional knot. Attaching a picture so you can see. The lighting in the picture is terrible but it's the gaps that are the point.
georgep: [citat] Thanks, Martin, I will keep that in mind when I need to do some work here in Sweden! For my project I mentioned earlier, this is not applicable as my construction site is 250 miles away - the price difference would disappear in the freight. There are many building materials in Sweden that unfortunately aren't profitable to export over longer distances and in small quantities. :(
krillansson: We are going to install paneling on our house and have asfabord as the base. We would like to get our hands on real literature regarding construction techniques, tips, and tricks. We've looked around a bit online and in bookstores, but nothing seems to be available. We want books with examples of things like how to nail, measure, saw, etc., for example when an outer wall meets an outer roof, and
MMR: 1) Will look around a bit. 2) Yes since the attic space is accessible via a hatch on the gable, there are no problems removing it and laying the new insulation from there, that was my thought. But if, as you say, the 30-50 mm doesn't make much difference, then it's just as well to ignore it anyway. Thanks for the help for now.
leisjo: Hello Mr Z I received a lot of good advice from you a year ago, so thanks for last time. Hat profiles and primary profiles are 3.6 m (or longer). I can never get them up the spiral staircase 2 floors without cutting and then they need to be joined 200cc. The room dimensions are 360 x 375, but sure 4 m rule, cut "on the street". The price I have is a little over 20 SEK per meter for steel
Frodo: The staircase is 45 mm thick and the terrace floor is 28 mm nailed; due to ground movements throughout the year, the nails come up. Is it better to replace the nails with screws? Should I drive the screw into the nail holes or next to them? What type and dimension of screw? Are there any good links to "screw knowledge"? Thank you for the tips
CarMan: this house is at least strangely built :) the door in the laundry room wall is a sliding door that goes inside the wall. so from the door opening & far to the left there is a wooden wall, which does not seem to be load-bearing at all. Above the door, there is also wood (gypsum board) & it sounds hollow. but as I understand from what you have described so far, the concrete slab can at least be
alneskog: No, a room of about 50 m2. The electrical conduits will run along the ceiling (and then be hidden with a false ceiling and down in the wall in about ten places. /H
MartinT: Depends on what your current wall is made of ;) In your case, it seems to be timber frame with wooden siding, so the order you've mentioned seems reasonable. Depending on how wide the hole is, it might also be necessary to frame, which might be needed even if the hole is narrow if there's nowhere to attach the drywall.