Building Materials and Construction Technology
Jesca_j: [citat] They are available at Byggmax here at least and they are exactly the same as those sold at Beijer. By the way, I think it's called insektsnät.
skytte: I have done the same exercise myself and then I applied a thin layer of plaster, and after that I textured the surface with a regular wallpaper brush. I am very satisfied with it. Ideally, if you are plastering on a painted surface, you should prime first, but I skipped that step and the plaster is sticking where it should. //Skytte
ByggPutte: Are you going to frame the outer wall? You can fix the "hatt" profile used for ceilings. I think it's available in 25mm height. But there won't be any insulation. If you're going to cut many metal studs to the same length, you can saw through the whole bundle with a reciprocating saw or angle grinder. Best regards, Putte
Johan Gunverth: Call former Foreign Minister Jan Eliasson. He has laid countless meters of limestone dry stone walling on his farm in Gotland and claims to master all the tricks. ;) Seriously; GOOGLE!
mismisimos: Well, that was typical, happy can surely provide an answer to everything! :D
Kasch: [citat] Hmm yeah, of course ::) I can blame it on a stressful week at work...
RikardB: We have a split-level villa with a ground floor in concrete and an upper floor in wood. We are considering building a balcony (3x2m) above the entrance. What construction is recommended? We want the design to be as sleek and elegant as possible. The balcony must not be rustic and bulky. Additionally, we would like the balcony to function as a roof over the entrance. How can the construction be
Mikael_L: Hmm, for interior doors, I suspect most people don't bother with extra sealing. I feel that foam sealant seems a bit overkill, rock wool insulation is so tedious to work with.. etc. If the gaps are fairly even everywhere, perhaps a inserted backer rod would provide a little extra sound and heat insulation, a more pleasant material to work with, but a bit more expensive. Or maybe buy some cheap
Tegheim: I have two acquaintances who have torn down the plaster in their HSB apartments. And they become very stylish feature walls as hallway walls that shine thanks to the varnish. The varnish is not just for appearance's sake but also very much to avoid dust, as brick dusts endlessly. Problems you may encounter include, for example, blue concrete in certain areas; that's what they've done in our HSB
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=57705/0]Windows & doors[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
spocks_beard: Place building paper (tar paper) on the concrete and the studs on top to avoid moisture in the timber.
Manberg: This is what it looks like in my hallway, I didn't want paneling because I don't like that style. It's whiter in reality. Finished 2 hours ago! Excuse the uber poor quality!
Milkshaken: talk to a company that specializes in diamond drilling, they have broad experience. Nice with a stone villa I must say,,,, cool in the summer and warm (Once you've heated it up) in the winter... :)
nomis: We occasionally sell pallets, but then in slightly larger batches (company). They usually end up around 50-60 SEK each if I remember correctly. A+ grade pallet (which looks new) should fetch 90-100 SEK. But larger batches are probably required.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=20565/0]Craftsmen & Contractors[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
GustavW: 45x220 with glued screwed chipboard is OK up to 4-4.5 meters cc 600mm if I remember correctly. Check http://www.traguiden.se, there's a lot of useful information there.
NiclasR: [citat] We have Siporex underneath, so it's slightly softer than regular concrete. The Hilti machine doesn’t seem too bad to use for this work. I guess I'll see how easily I can remove a broken tile without damaging the loop underneath. If it goes wrong, I'll probably try to rent a Hilti machine.
MathiasS: [moved] [link=http://www.byggahus.se/forum/showthread.php?t=59287/0]Biofuel[/link] [move by] MathiasS.
kalle58: Thank you, but a problem I haven't mentioned yet remains: The rule is attached to the remaining wall with screws through 6 blocks of varying thickness. (0-5cm) In some parts of the wall, I have a hole straight through. How do I fill it? With wood/gypsum and then plaster on top??
josohl: Is there concrete that is frost-resistant and waterproof? I would like to cast a garden pond! Most recommend PVC liner for ponds, but I'm not going to have such a large pond and I think concrete edges can be really nice, which is hardly the case for PVC edges... Do you think it's possible to keep water during the winter without it bursting if you make sloping edges so that the ice can "rise"?
zingo: Found a large 3 mm steel plate. Can I use it just as well as mineriten? It can't be bent by hand, anyway. ::)
Langbein: When it is difficult to access certain pressure-treated wood that has been assembled and needs to be oiled after a short time, might it be better to oil it before construction?
Gomma: [citat] Maybe something helpful, page 50 and onwards http://www.tibnor.se/C1256EF1005D76CD/0/3C4AF49785CB3A9BC1256F1500642884/$file/Konstruktionstabeller_2003.pdf /Peter
Mats: Would take decking screws since raw wood and decking are fairly similar.
zingo: That sounds really exciting! :P I have to try it. I'm just wondering how to get so much steam. I guess I'll have to make a fire. ::)
bimbosorken: I'm building my sauna and it has a slanted roof, and I'm planning to use a slanted roof trim 19x56 mm 38 degrees, trivselhus has the trim. But my question is if there is a trim with dimensions 19x56 that is not slanted that I can mount in the corners to achieve the same height on the trims. Or will I be forced to custom-saw these?
sirbo: Ok thanks, I think I'm leaning towards a thicker list, will try with a panel without tongue and groove.
zingo: Lightweight concrete is wonderful to work with. You can saw it with a regular saw and easily create fine details if you're a bit meticulous. The finish is achieved by applying a slightly more than a centimeter thick layer of plaster on top, reinforced with something like chicken wire. The plaster is painted with regular wall paint. The lightweight concrete is very fragile and crumbly, so the
saturnus: I don't think the valve has any significance anymore. What you can do is cut a piece of Styrofoam about 10cm thick, press it into the hole, then you can putty over and wallpaper/weave, or whatever you plan to have on the walls.