Building a 40m2 garage on an insulated slab. It will be heated with an air source heat pump. Intended to maintain about 15 degrees year-round in western Sweden.
What type of masonry block is the most reasonable to invest in?
*Finja exact insulated block? Unnecessarily expensive? +well-insulated - the 25cm variant seems impossible to get, unnecessarily expensive?, increased cost for masonry. Complicated with all types of beams, corner pieces, etc.?
* Finja regular non-insulated blocks? +cheap, easy to work with only 1 type of block, faster masonry. -poorly insulated
Other alternatives?
What type of masonry block is the most reasonable to invest in?
*Finja exact insulated block? Unnecessarily expensive? +well-insulated - the 25cm variant seems impossible to get, unnecessarily expensive?, increased cost for masonry. Complicated with all types of beams, corner pieces, etc.?
* Finja regular non-insulated blocks? +cheap, easy to work with only 1 type of block, faster masonry. -poorly insulated
Other alternatives?
The seller now advocated for regular non-insulated blocks with internal framing and insulation. He called Isoblock an unnecessary Premium construction.
Another alternative is to insulate externally with foam plastic that is then plastered?
What do you think?
Another alternative is to insulate externally with foam plastic that is then plastered?
What do you think?
Internal insulation is generally not recommended for houses, but garages may not have the same moisture load, so it might not pose the same risk of issues? I'm not sure, but you might want to consider the problems that internal insulation can bring.
In the past, I've used regular concrete blocks, external insulation + thick render, when building.
If I were to do it again, I would make a double wall with 10cm insulation (or whatever you want). But then you end up with about 15cm + 10cm + 12cm (plus a couple of cm for the surface layer). Not many garages today are built with 40cm thick walls.
But I live in the countryside, have plenty of square meters on the plot (a thick wall doesn't mean less interior space, just that you need a larger slab and more work), I like bricklaying, and have no problem getting building permits, so a thick wall is not a big issue for me.
Generally, people use aerated concrete instead of concrete blocks to get better insulation value and avoid the hassle of insulation, etc. I imagine a 25cm aerated concrete block without extra insulation would have a fairly decent insulation value. That’s probably the simple and reasonably priced alternative.
In the past, I've used regular concrete blocks, external insulation + thick render, when building.
If I were to do it again, I would make a double wall with 10cm insulation (or whatever you want). But then you end up with about 15cm + 10cm + 12cm (plus a couple of cm for the surface layer). Not many garages today are built with 40cm thick walls.
But I live in the countryside, have plenty of square meters on the plot (a thick wall doesn't mean less interior space, just that you need a larger slab and more work), I like bricklaying, and have no problem getting building permits, so a thick wall is not a big issue for me.
Generally, people use aerated concrete instead of concrete blocks to get better insulation value and avoid the hassle of insulation, etc. I imagine a 25cm aerated concrete block without extra insulation would have a fairly decent insulation value. That’s probably the simple and reasonably priced alternative.
Thank you so much for your response!B BSOD said:
I'm in a bit of a rush since the craftsmen are arriving soon. Need to decide on the construction tonight.
Do you have an example of a suitable lightweight concrete block that isn't too wide (limited space)?
I don't see any disadvantages with lightweight concrete except for the price and that it might be harder to find than leca..P plan-g said:
Otherwise, you can build with 300mm Leca and insulate 50mm externally, which you then plaster on to get a good wall..
Finja has a base render system that is good, but you don't necessarily need the expensive fiber-reinforced A mortar they prescribe. It works well with a render mortar B if you want to save some money.P plan-g said:
https://www.finja.se/storage/ma/77d...E5986D94280A702B6B/Sockelputssystem_AA_sv.pdf
Lightweight concrete is significantly more susceptible to frost than leca blocks. They must never get wet to avoid cracking/crumbling or having the plaster fall off. It also often requires special foundation plaster to adhere long-term.
I would have considered isoleca. Alternatively, a 19cm leca wall with 10cm lightweight concrete inside as a cavity wall, but this might be more expensive if you're not doing the masonry work yourself.
I would have considered isoleca. Alternatively, a 19cm leca wall with 10cm lightweight concrete inside as a cavity wall, but this might be more expensive if you're not doing the masonry work yourself.
Then it's leca and mortar B with winter measures that's needed, you can do the plastering in the spring..P plan-g said:
Ok.Rejäl said:
The slab is already finished. Made by professionals with edge elements, etc.
If I place the leca edge to edge with the slab and then insulate externally with 50mm foam plus plaster - does it look strange that the base ends up about 8cm further in?
No, you go down with the polystyrene all the way to the gravel bed so it's no problem.P plan-g said:
It looks nice with a complete facade.
Consider winter measures with hot water but not too hot water when mixing the mortar, and if there is night frost, cover all masonry with tarpaulins, including the blocks you will be using for the masonry.