Building Materials and Construction Technology
taxen77: Now we have built the wall, so let's hope we did it right... We checked with a chimney sweep and were allowed to use a wooden stud since there were no hot channels on that side. An inspection with a camera should be possible where the fan goes through the wall, if needed.
B6304S1: I have decided to cast with EPS Cement. But I have a few more questions... The plan is to use both waterborne floor heating and supplement with electric heating for summer operation. I plan to use PEX pipes. * What diameter of the PEX pipe should I use? (12 or 20 mm?) * Which type of electric floor heating; T2 Blue or the really thin one that lies on a pre-made mat intended to be cast into the
pinebar: Of course it matters! They are as visible as any knots. I would only choose black if one of the colors of the house is black. Isn't it appropriate to choose a color that blends in with the house's color scheme? On our light green/white house, black would look really odd.
esox71: Yes, it's difficult. We also have white mexi with brown wooden details. We've replaced the windows and now have white frames. We've put up white plates and are currently working on white moldings. Some say you're ruining the character of the mexi house if you remove the strong contrast between dark and light. Personally, I think you just go for it, and if it turns out bad, you can always redo it
ByggaNytt: http://www.norgips.se/file?dnl=SE%2Fprojektering%2Fvaggar_stalstomme%2FGenerella_anvisningar.pdf
Semiel: I have a fancy garage from '56, built in this way. I have dug along the long side to drain some moisture seeping through the wall... but I won't do more until I've solved the top... possibly I should also divert the water so that it doesn't run straight down along the wall... Would be fun to hear how it went for you?!
Mats: sure, you can. What provides the most stability is the sheet materials on the inside and outside. A tip is to get good bits and a proper screwdriver. Then you either use through bolts through the sill and nail plates or brackets and anchor screws from the inside.
jeppeknaster: Easycover is considerably easier to work with than renovation plasterboard. Simply fill in any holes you have and make sure nothing protrudes. If you have uneven/wavy walls, plasterboard won’t help either as it follows the wall's contours. Also, remember to use waterproof adhesive and apply it thoroughly since it absorbs quite a bit. In the seams, overlap a few centimeters and cut through both
Mikael_L: It seems to be an easy task to plaster to the exact right level. Nice that it turned out well!
esox71: Insert a follow-up question: Is fogskum diffusion-tight?
ByggPutte: Superb with electric syringe. With speed control ;). Best regards, Putte
stiffen72: Pushing again for the question.. is there anything one would prefer on an enlarged friggebod that is 3.6m wide and 5.2m long?
Ingenjören: Agree with the IT guy! I glued our beadboard to drywall with regular wood glue - worked perfectly! Naturally, twisted panel pieces are sorted out in advance. It's fine to secure with a nail in the tongue here and there until the glue has dried. /The Engineer
Karl_Malmqvist: I have no idea what trivselhus will think. Building a support beam with a joist instead of load-bearing walls doesn't violate any regulations (check the building codes in Norway first). They can probably charge a lot to deviate from their standard solutions, but I guess they won't refuse to build it.
klaskarlsson: The insulation sounds like what I'll have in my vacation home - not like what you usually have in newly built permanent houses. But as someone above said, the question is if it's something else since you should be able to get the temperature above 20 degrees at least - even if it costs a bit of electricity, of course. 500 tkr - expensive? Well, it depends on how big the house is. For a 45-60 sqm
pinebar: Our reed was secured with chicken wire nailed to approximately every dm2. If you can somehow mill away just the plaster and the reed, the rest should stay in place. Ours was very difficult to remove. We had to use a crowbar to pull it down. But I think it might be challenging to then plaster it so that it becomes the same as the old plaster.
naresjo: The post is a glulam post 90x90, nice fn quality! It is probably the beam shoe and the attachment itself that don't hold. Now I'm trying with new iron and channel. If that doesn't work, I saw some nice granite posts for a little less than 2500 SEK each. And if I keep at it for a while longer, I'll soon reach that amount...:)
krillecurry: I bought two good drills, a 2mm metal and a 5mm concrete. Drilled through the small stub and used LOW SPEED with the concrete drill. It cut like a knife through butter through the concrete with the small jula hammer drill. Thanks for all the answers and tips, you learn as long as you live =D
Mellanbarn: [citat] No, they are not similar when you think about it. :o My angle B is only half of angle A. Lucky my math teacher isn't seeing this. I need to recalculate and see how half the angle can give half the answer. I have to thank mattiaswahlberg for a good page.
jon_h: Which builders are you talking about then? Not the carpenter you mentioned earlier in the thread anyway. Those who have that argument don't know what they're talking about. This is a proven construction, one of two allowed in the industry rules of PER. Additionally, it is a construction that all putty suppliers and all insurance companies approve. There are no problems with this construction. The
Mats: "Do not post the same question under multiple headings." Closing this Mats Moderator
jon_h: It doesn't matter that much. What you should look for is how high it can be built, and that it's possible to taper the spackling compound to zero in thickness.
taxen77: According to the attached sketch (not to scale...), we want to make a new small wall so that we can create a corner to place a stove against. The wall will extend 90 degrees out from the chimney, and on the backside of it, a kitchen counter will go. I have a few questions that I hope I can get help with :) 1) Suggestions on what materials to use for building - bricks, multiplates, lightweight
mrbean_stockholm: Hello, I have tried to recreate the fireplace's appearance after installing a fireplace insert. I made a simple wooden mold and cast it with regular mortar, and it looked good for a year, then it started to crack significantly. Now one side has come loose thanks to the kids :( . One mistake I know I made was not wetting the brick before casting. Anyone have tips on how to achieve a good
Leaff: [citat] Hmm, how should I respond...there is a staircase under the box, so there's a slanted ceiling. There was a smaller box underneath, but I framed it and put new plaster. I'll upload another picture soon.
kongolasse: Hello! Almost exactly a year ago, I knocked down our concrete staircase with a basement staircase underneath. And with the help of a form, I cast the steps and plastered the rest of the stairs and basement walls. I used primer and reinforcement mesh on the basement staircase's ceiling and walls. I was very pleased with everything until a few days ago when I noticed small thin cracks in the stair
esox71: Nice. I've gone at it with the chisel like a madman all day. At least now the metal plates are in place. Just the trim, etc. left... Thanks for the answers!
it-snubben: You probably don't need to be so precise about cutting along the frame. It's easier to break and bend if you have a small piece left to hold onto. Cut the threshold in the middle and just break off the pieces. Thresholds can be purchased at most hardware stores. I bought mine at K-Rauta. 129 SEK/each. At K-Rauta, the thresholds were pre-cut for certain frame widths and require a specific frame
pixel: Here you can read a bit more: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/inredning/51343-hoejd-pa-raecke-vid-oeppen-planloesning.html