Building Materials and Construction Technology
yens: ok, the paint has been purchased, now I just have to build too :) thank you very much for the valuable tips!!
kilroy: We have used slats of Siberian larch for our deck construction that are 26-27 mm thick, rough-sawn. We need to get a few more meters. Unfortunately, the previous supplier has sold the business, so I hope to get it in another way. Anyone have tips? It doesn't necessarily have to be Siberian larch. Regards kilroy
ByggPutte: Good luck with neighbor relations. We encountered something similar at work. We did the groundwork and then some customers hired foreign labor. No drying times to speak of. And they filled an apartment with soot from a chimney ;). Regards, Putte
imported_Byggaren: [citat] Absolutely correct. If we are talking about the same dimension, that is. But here they went up to a larger dimension, and then it is not certain that the deflection increases even if the length does. And as usual, the deflection should not exceed 1/400 of the span in long-term load. Therefore, one typically calculates the strength for the moment first, and then checks how large the
Ulf_RTCW: I bought those at Allt i Mark, on Hisingen (If you live in Gothenburg)
MathiasS: It became a polished rod from Biltema with accompanying nuts and washers. Spraying some type of surface treatment on it and hoping for the best. Went up a notch in dimension (to 20mm) and doubled the critical attachment points. It probably won't blow away... Also planning to mount an inspectable piece of threaded rod so I can see how much it rusts each year...
stark1: You have probably set up the aquarium, but next time use this type! HUS-H skruvankare - hilti.se
qandnor: Thanks for the answers! Will talk to the builder.
JohannesH: We have a summer cottage built in the 60s where we are now thinking of fixing up the living room, which might be original since the house was built. There are currently cracks in the joints between the panels in the room, and the question is how advanced we should make it. According to the drawings, there's a 10mm building board (?) that is?... Masonite? I have the original drawings of the house
Brannmark: Quick question, will you have a bathroom in this part? If so, consider making a staircase down to this part and build directly on the concrete. It will be so much easier to lay tiles, etc. if you plan to have that. How much insulation do you have under the slab?
Faidros: On "Träguiden" you will probably find what you are looking for. I believe you need to register to gain access there. For example: The conditions for planning up to system documents are described in Planera träbygg. In Konstruktion, there are examples of principle solutions and detailed standard solutions divided into different building parts. The examples can be used as a basis for your own
klitsie: Have installed breast paneling in 15 mm oak parquet at home, used silicone to attach it but you could always pad out the wall with plywood strips or something and then shoot with a brad nailer maybe?? doesn't show much or if the distances are shorter, lock the laminate with the moldings and just glue the "boards" together...
yens: Alko: I bought my clipps at Silvan, I don't know if bauhaus/hornbach/k-rauta has them. Sawsaw: I haven't bought spots yet, but my electrician recommends 230, so that's probably what I'll go for. The pipes in the kitchen can be good if only because it's convenient to know exactly how the cables run. Thanks for the good tips.
ByggPutte: Completely superb multimaster. Sawed off a patio door frame from a recess. So we could replace the door outward without impacting inward. Completely superb machine. Best regards, Putte
ByggPutte: Mom built with leca blocks stacked on each other with channels in them. I don't know if there were more than 2 in. But on the same level, she has a wood stove on one side and a fireplace on the other. And upstairs another fireplace. Best regards, Putte
ByggPutte: If it's a heavy-duty iron, it becomes difficult. Check Hilti's drills. They have a couple of extra "piggar" on the tip. Might not be available in all sizes. Best regards, Putte
EmMi: Consideration 1: We will have three channels from three fireplaces in the same chimney stack. At the bottom around the fireplaces, we were thinking of masonry (red brick or lightweight concrete blocks). We have a ceiling height of over 4 meters, so the question is whether we can cut corners a bit and not build all the way up. Perhaps we can use wood framing, drywall, OSB, mesh, and plaster on
ByggaNytt: maxit se - LECA Lightweight Aggregate maxit se - Our Retailers
Ulf_RTCW: PU glue needs moisture to cure, as I understand it. But is it okay to glue new pressure-treated wood, which is almost dripping?
Lillblomma: So that's WHY they are so terribly expensive... But maybe one can invest in some other sliding surface? There are plastic slides... //A
trojlee: here in Norrland we have quite a bit of frost which makes me want to pour quite deep, i.e., frost-free. How have you done it, those who have poured with paper? What diameter do you need for the casting tube? regards M
jon_h: Yes, that actually sounds strange. I haven't experienced anything like that.
Ahlbom: In the old subfloor that I removed in a room, there were newspapers from 1936 that were completely intact, so newspapers should be able to last if they stay dry :)
olni65: Some earlier discussion on the subject can be found in this thread
Watchmen: stenastål // bröderna ekstrand where you buy 5200 nets for 168kr each
Fasting65: How long is a piece of string? An extension can be as expensive as you like. The advantage of building an extra floor is that you don't have to take up yard space... The downside is that you get a staircase inside the house. It can be difficult in old age. Then it can get a bit complicated to build upwards when you remove the roof, transport building materials up, install new heating pipes,
OlaF: Now, I don't know anything about blasting, but I personally would never dare to blast so close to houses and homes. What does a professional charge to do the job? I thought it might be worth it compared to the risk of getting secondary damages to the house, which may not even be covered by insurance?