Building Materials and Construction Technology
Martin_Blomberg: Hello! Try this link: rostfria arbeten, material, stockholm - Eniro Gula Sidorna
stark1: look: Joma They manufacture it, but who sells the galvanized ones in smaller quantities? Check with them!
Margot: Saw a picture where the floor joists are nailed to the side of the wall studs. But if the spacing is 60 both for the floor joists and the wall studs, I wonder how it turned out that way. The spacing for the first floor joist starts with the inner edge of the sill, while the spacing for the wall stud starts with the first wall stud nailed to the outer edge of the sill. The sill width is thus
bax: But a laminate floor does have chipboard underneath it (?). It will be difficult to get the stair nose right without the chipboard showing. However, if you can get hold of thin (~8-10mm) glued panels in pine, you can make the steps yourself. Fill up the stair nose so it looks decent, then cut suitable steps and stair nose.
Mattias_Jo1: Talk about how great it is to just throw up the plaster. This won't be the last time! /Mattias
AndersS: I don't shop much at Woody/Beijers, but I compared a purchase with Byggmax, which is a discount store, and it was 10-15% cheaper. So with regular prices on the ones you mention, it might be 30-40% or maybe more on certain dimensions, but if you're good at bargaining and buying in larger quantities, the difference should be smaller. However, you should read up a bit on timber and dimensions before
Hawkdown: I'm going to renovate the kitchen and in the old pantry there's a vent that goes through the exterior wall. I'm planning to block it and wondering what's the best way to do it? The hole is 15x15cm and I don't intend to block the entire wall (concrete) but will leave the vent cover on the outside for now. Is mortar enough or should I also place a stone there?
Sandberg: The concrete underneath is not smooth enough to paint on, so unfortunately that suggestion is not feasible... and besides, it seems to hold well in the rest of the ceiling. My thought is to expose the concrete on this half square meter and then try to fill it with something suitable and try to mimic the textured appearance. The question then is what should I use to fill it and how do I achieve
Pysslarn: Masterboard is a board similar to minerit, but I'm not sure about its price. Otherwise, you should be able to glue multiskivor/multiplattor (a type of lightweight concrete panels used in bathroom constructions) onto a plywood board, preferably formplywood. Then you place the mosaic on the multiplattor in the usual way. You can find multiplattor at well-stocked hardware stores. Good luck! Best
JohanLysmask: I couldn't wait for an answer any longer, so I went ahead and built the bottom edge in a wave with the spirit level! looks good... probably only I will notice if there's any minimal tilt anyway... Feels good, made the right decision!!
jon_h: Yes, they can also mold, especially floor gypsum which doesn't have any special treatment of the paper; it is just harder and stronger than regular gypsum. Exterior gypsum is wax- and mold-resistant treated, but this is not a guarantee against mold, it still needs to be handled correctly to function. Regarding wet rooms, there is special wet room gypsum which is more resistant to mold, but if
SteX: I am now about to start setting up the frame for our sunroom. I will attach a laminated timber post to the house's facade. The house wall is plastered (rough plaster) and quite uneven. Underneath the plastering are logs. I will place an expansion bolt into the lowest part of the foundation wall, and for the plastered surface, a couple of large French wood screws. I plan to gently knock off the
ByggPutte: Have you not checked with the local blacksmith? Best regards, Putte
ByggPutte: Minerit can work well and is available in different thicknesses. Best regards, Putte
Mats: I haven't tested it, but you could put a muff on the end that doesn't have a factory-installed muff. With a 400 drum plus a bit of road embankment on top, you get approximately a 45-degree slope on the edges, and it works if you pack the maaterial. Then maybe you could place some stones or similar at the bottom and gain a little height that way.
andersmc: A drill like that is often too strong for driving drywall screws. The slightest pressure on the trigger and the screw goes all the way into the wood. Additionally, it is quite cumbersome for this purpose.
andersmc: I think we've had this discussion before... Chipboard is good, OSB is better, and plywood is the best. They also cost in that exact order. I think OSB feels like a good compromise.
JohanKson: It's just a renovation, but it feels like a whole construction site at the moment. :) Luckily, I can relax at work during the week. I should gather a bunch of friends and acquaintances and place a beer every ten meters instead. I've already heard about home delivery, and it only worked if they had some trip up to the western Dalarna villages.
snickarboden: Whether it is load-bearing or not cannot be answered from the picture; you need to see it on site. If it is not load-bearing, you will need to remove moldings, the plaster, take out the studs, and then the hard part begins—trying to make the ceiling look good. If it is load-bearing, it is often quite sensible to have a skilled carpenter take a look at it, but choose your carpenter carefully.
Martin_Blomberg: I am going to Tallinn and planning to look at building materials, mainly for the kitchen. Can anyone recommend a hardware store or another place where I can buy kitchen handles cheaper than in Sweden? Or suggest a hardware store near the harbor where the ferries arrive?
abel48: Thank you all for the answers. The house is otherwise in plaster, with a wooden frame, don't think there is any plastic now. Adding insulation and putting wooden paneling on it. /Anders
jcoboy: I think you can apply plastic to the office and guest room, i.e., heated spaces, the cost is almost negligible. I don't believe there's any significant risk of damage without plastic. / Christer
abel48: ok thanks so much for the answer. Best regards Anders
snickarboden: Just don't try to split up the demolition wood, it's no fun at all. /Kent
Mats: No problem with the form. If you look at it from above, the idea is like this XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XBBBBBBBBBBB Y YYYYYYYYYYYYY That is, X is a horizontal L consisting of a long side and a short side. The same goes for y, and then I let the studs on the short sides overlap each other. I was thinking of drilling a hole through and putting a solid rebar as a pin. During demolition, you pull out the
farbrorBlaa: [citat] Oops! I should have seen that :o.. sorry //pär
kinshasa: Thanks Jon, I'm probably aiming for the first of those options. Best regards, Jörgen
zachris: Great picture - now I understand how much easier it becomes if the beams are of the same type! :) If one were to choose a smaller beam, I guess you'd want to reduce the dimension so much that it fits "inside" the larger beam without a lot of cutting, etc.?
Hans_Nordstrand: A simple way to make post holes in clay is with an earth auger. You can then cast directly in the holes. There won't be a footing underneath, but if the clay isn't too loose, it should be sufficient for a lightweight building. Hans