Building Materials and Construction Technology
imported_Byggaren: [citat] It depends if you graduated middle school with passing grades in math :rolleyes: *joking back* Or rather: what grade of timber you're dealing with. (Requires passing Swedish to be able to read properly.)
Snaskpelle: They are usually called "sammansatta (trä)produkter". Not very imaginative.
imported_Byggaren: [citat] I would probably have reversed it because the rafters are exposed to bending moments due to self-weight, snow, and wind loads, while the lower frame (not arm, that is between the elbow and the wrist) is exposed mainly to tensile forces (dimensioned for self-weight + the weight of an underroof and insulation, which do not create significant bending moments and are also supported by the
Forsberg: I've been busy in the kitchen and in the process knocked down old tiles on a chimney. But with the tiles, large parts of the plaster also came off, and it ended with me making the wall completely brick-exposed. So the question is what to use next; I've heard that plastering it again can be a bit messy. Is there some type of gypsum mortar/spackle that is a bit firmer in consistency and thus easier
imported_Byggaren: If they are made of plastic, you can check with Plastisol. If they are made of sheet metal, you can check with Lindab.
-David-: I can only recommend Bynor.se Quite new on the internet, but an incredible sense of service - and unlike Rinkaby, they are happy to help with solutions. I have shopped there a few times myself and am extremely satisfied. Then the fact that their "policy" is to always be cheaper than Rinkaby doesn't hurt.....
nike-72: Thank you so much Staffan!! Exactly right, they had started from the chimney:) Now five out of ten brackets are up, one shelf row left, for once it will be exactly like the picture I had in my head when I first saw the floor. Nice that people take time with others' problems, great forum this is:)
Snaskpelle: It is clear that wooden studs are used. Some customers demand it for various reasons, (including environmental considerations and stability since not all metal studs are created equal :) ), then it is easier and faster for construction companies with metal when you have skilled carpenters with the right tools. :) For most DIY enthusiasts, I think wooden studs are a simpler and better alternative.
Mikael_L: [citat] Well, then ... :) :D I absolutely wouldn't spend any time taping where there will later be some building panel or other frame etc. All airflow is impossible then. It might be an idea to apply a tape as extra security if there is a place where, due to mechanical impact, there might be wear, maybe some inner corner, for example. So if it happens to occur, there is some tape over the holes
imported_Byggaren: Built a 4-seat 'rolls' for our grandchildren two years ago with steering wheel control. I solved the steering with wire in a bowden cable purchased from 'classe'. The wheel suspension itself with spindle bolt and fittings (to handle the fact that the inner wheel should turn a little more than the outer wheel due to a smaller turning radius and still have 'toe-in' straight ahead to drive straight
pinebar: Exciting! I'm also looking forward to following your project. I also hope that you have somewhere else to live while you are building at your busiest. Good luck!
unigas: We have received an account of what happens when mineral wool is heated, what new information is in the report (which you have read but still find exciting to see?) I know what happens to the mineral wool I throw away at the dump. It ends up in landfill since it is non-combustible, along with ceramics, gypsum boards, etc. This, of course, can vary between different municipalities and how they
ByggaNytt: Raised the walls in sections ~4m otherwise they become quite heavy... The top plate can be easily spliced on a wall stud! [bild] http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/stomme/vagg.jpg
JockeGbg: Ok, thanks for the tips. I'll check if I can find a suitable hole saw.
handersson: I forgot a sheet of fiber-reinforced gypsum board on the trailer one summer night, and the sheet stuck out about 50 cm, and indeed it had been bent by the moisture/dew. I later saw at Fredells (Stockholm) that they moisten the gypsum board and then bend it, so it certainly works.....
TorpAnders: Bringing this up again now that it's time for window replacements. (the door is still not done) We are going to install larger windows on the lower floor, which will be +20cm in height. This will result in the window being 10cm below the ceiling, meaning an entire beam upwards will need to be cut away. This is the beam that is almost level with the house's floor structure. Could this pose any
Faidros: [citat] Yes, the "missionärsställningen" might become boring in the long run.
Mikael_L: It might be the purely wind-insulating property (or should we call it wind-shielding) that is being referred to, not heat-insulating. I totally agree with you Jon, lerkliningen cannot have better insulation value than mineral wool/glass wool/cellular plastic.
magnushagelberg: I have nailed all my OSB with 60 nails, then screwed with 40mm drywall screws, making the house as stable as ever.
magnushagelberg: "There is a box that the electrician uses for post-installation in walls. I believe it is called a rot box. However, it is larger than 5cm in diameter." This box is also called a senildosa... and the diameter is just like the regular device box (70mm)."
jon_h: Sure, fiber cement boards of the minerit type work there. You can also plaster the wall. But keep in mind that if you have a lot of moisture migration in the wall today, that moisture may have a harder time passing through a painted board, and could lead to increased moisture content in the wall.
Stoia: Hello! I think you are making a mistake because 4-8 makadam is more similar to sand than gravel. 8-16 transports moisture and water away much better if such should appear under the foundation.
Randomizer: Nänä...I don't have Gotländskt ancestry ;) Considering that it's 30 square meters to plaster, I think the option to put up drywall was better and faster. //R
imported_Byggaren: The question has come up before and the answer remains the same. Start by cutting some wooden blocks to attach the plaster to. If it's an INP, IPE, HE-A, HE-B, HE-M, or U-beam with flanges, the wooden blocks should be pressed in vertically between the flanges. Cover the sides and let them extend down so you can place a longitudinal 22x45 batten at the bottom p.b.s. and connect on the underside