Building Materials and Construction Technology
jon_h: There is already a thread on exactly the same topic in the bathroom forum. Take the discussion there instead. :) http://www.byggahus.se/forum/badrum/68844-gipsvaeggar-bakom-taetskikt-i-badrum-foerbjuds.html Closing this.
musli30: Oh, yes, it's an outer wall, the insulation is ooollld but it will be re-insulated from the outside next summer. Of course, we're going to have electrical outlets, but we live in a 1920s house that's supposed to look old, so it will have exposed wiring in an old style, so that's fine. And the wall is fairly straight, nothing you can see with the naked eye anyway! :-D So it's just a matter of
H_L: Hello. I have heard about a strip apparently called "Kulon-list," which can, among other things, be attached as a strip on the door frame to seal the door. It is essentially a wooden(?) strip integrated with a sealing strip made of rubber/plastic. I've searched for such a strip in various building stores, etc., online without finding the right one. Is there another name for this? Thank you!
matbanan: Try searching for construction technology in the Yellow Pages. You will likely find a lot of companies involved in building constructions.
synpunkter: I have old garage doors with a bad panel. If you remove the existing panel, you get a smooth surface. A budget option to fix them might be to remove the panel and attach smooth oak plywood. Two questions my friends: 1. I would rather not screw in the plywood but glue it - any tips on glue and how to do it? Are we talking construction adhesive and eighteen clamps? 2. Can one treat an oak plywood
jon_h: It only applies if it is in the bathroom, or if the plaster is to be placed under ceramics on regular floors and simultaneously have a bending stiffness-enhancing function.
ktm250: [citat] It is the insulation that is placed in the beams before they are cast in them. If you buy ready-made beams, it's not something you need to think about.
Pysslarn: OK, thank you very much for the tip! Best regards Ronnie
DVE: Has anyone used a Masterboard for plastering? If so, how did it work? Satisfied with the result? Experiences? How is the material to work with? As easy as drywall? Price of these boards? DVE
Charlotte Andersson: The very best option is to jackhammer the entire floor, excavate and refill with draining material (macadam/gravel), insulation (preferably 200mm), and pour a new concrete floor (min 100mm). Then you can also consider whether you want underfloor heating. However, this is a tough and labor-intensive job, but it pays off in comfort and heating costs. If the height of the old drainage allows, you
Charlotte Andersson: Hi NilssonC! You're absolutely right in your considerations! Socket boxes that make holes in the plastic film pose a risk of moist indoor air entering the construction. The fewer holes, the better! Serious electricians avoid as much as possible placing outlets and similar in exterior walls. When it's unavoidable, the plastic should be sealed around the box with suitable tape for the purpose.
Charlotte Andersson: Hello Tobbe Gårdner! SP (Swedish National Testing and Research Institute) has published a study this year showing that many houses with wooden frames, cellular plastic, and stucco have been affected by mold. Therefore, they now advise against this type of construction. They recommend instead that cellular plastic be completely avoided in connection with wood. If you want stucco, you should do
Charlotte Andersson: Hello jakim! If I'm not mistaken, the moisture content of construction timber should be below 17%. The moisture content is affected as soon as the timber leaves the kiln. In winter, the air humidity is lower, while in summer it's higher. Therefore, the duration the timber is stored at the worksite matters. From your description, however, I don't believe that the moisture content of the timber is
Charlotte Andersson: Hello jakim! The door should be equipped with a drip plate above the door to prevent rain from the facade from running onto the lintel or further down onto the door. You should also ensure that the threshold is placed a bit above the ground surface, preferably 10-15 cm or more. The closer to the ground, the greater the risk of moisture. During snow, you should shovel so that meltwater doesn't run
Charlotte Andersson: Hello hempularen. To achieve a really good tiled floor, I believe one should, if possible, opt to lay the tiles on a concrete structure. With the information I've received from your post, I think the best solution in your case would be to lay slightly thinner insulation (50mm) and then cast an overlay concrete with crack reinforcement in it. This gives you the freedom to either embed water-based
Charlotte Andersson: Hello Snailman! Roof trusses are manufactured and dimensioned according to the conditions you have. If they are to be free-standing, the truss is adjusted accordingly. However, you get quite large and cumbersome constructions if the span becomes too large. However, it should not be a problem if the house stays within reasonable proportions. If you buy prefabricated standard trusses, you should
Charlotte Andersson: Hello Haddirajan! A newly built house has significantly better insulation than the houses built before the oil crisis of the 1970s. A newly built house keeps out heat as well as it keeps in heat during the winter. The problem arises when we, like now, have several days or even weeks of very hot weather. It becomes more difficult to protect against the heat because the construction becomes
Charlotte Andersson: Hello CristinaD! Now, aesthetic design isn't really my department, maybe you should ask the Architect or interior designer about these questions. Something that came to mind is that you wanted to lead it down to the boiler room. If it's a boiler room where you burn oil, pellets, or wood, you can't implement the solution you have in mind as the boiler room must be a fire compartment. In other
sommarbygge: A summer cottage to be placed on concrete blocks: 1) The sill is 100x200. Is it placed on the narrow side or laid flat on the concrete blocks? 2) What thickness of the board for the bottom truss is recommended, insulation: rock wool? 3) How and where should the ventilation be set, considering that the snow in Norrbotten is normally over a meter?
imported_Byggaren: Here, it's literally about rolling up your sleeves :D Take a lump of clay, about the size of a meatball and a bit more. Spit properly in your hand and work the clay and spit into a round ball, then flatten it in the style of a hamburger patty. Then, place your biggest thumb right in the center of the patty, press down firmly, release, and study the impression. If there are cracks around the
Mikael_L: [citat] But you have experience, I only have theory (almost anyway).
falkon: I have cast a slab directly against my existing house, but below ground level. To support an existing walkway, I had to lay about 4 courses of LECA blocks on the opposite long side of the house. The rest of the walls above ground will be built with 45*145 studs, in the usual way, directly on the LECA blocks. The internal ceiling height will be about 3 meters, which will give me, on the inside:
imported_Byggaren: No worries. You seem to have a pretty good grasp of what's going on. However, a 'syll' of 1"x5" doesn't sound great to me. It seems more like a nail board to get a flat surface to place the wall rules on. It doesn't carry anything, in other words. If nothing else rests on that 'syll', I suggest you hollow out 45 mm deep and 120-145 in height in the wall rules and fit in a 45x120 or 45x145 on edge
mickec: Hey, for modifications to load-bearing structures, a building permit is required. But have a structural engineer take a look to determine if it is load-bearing or not; they can often determine this by looking at drawings and through verbal information... I have removed two walls on the entrance floor of our house (two-story plus basement, built in '74). One opening is 330cm, the other 400cm. I
handersson: Yes, I still don't know, currently tearing down an old concrete retaining wall, and it's a real hell. I plan to build lecan up to just below ground level and then take a break and check the selection for a railing - so I can't quite answer yet. If I find something good that can be cast in, I'll do it, or alternatively drill and secure with anchor compound. //Håkan
Bjarven: Hello! We have an old, beautiful wrought iron railing from a demolished outdoor patio of an old functionalist house that we want to reuse on a newly built balcony. See attached picture. The red is the railing and the red crossbars are the brackets that were previously cast into the wall. My idea was to attach the railing to the walls and put rubber pads on the old brackets to rest on the
Cacas: Hello, we have ordered an Onsalavilla with a "finished exterior," and I just finished the foundation. The house will arrive in 3 weeks. The question is, OV. says that in order for them to be able to lay the tiles, we have to install battens first. We won't manage to finish everything (ventilation, etc.) while they are assembling the house. Should we install temporary battens or place a stripe in
Martin_Blomberg: Hello! Try this link: rostfria arbeten, material, stockholm - Eniro Gula Sidorna