Building Materials and Construction Technology
Kirsi: Hi Jonas, probably depends on how old the house is. Our house had a load-bearing "wall" that stands on a load-bearing floor beam, additionally supported in our old chimney, so we panicked after props when we demolished the chimney :D
trojlee: :D, thanks for the help. Started yesterday and have done half of it now. Will get back with pictures when everything is painted and done.... Best regards M
BosseHansson: Building with leca should be quite sturdy, I think. Alternatively, there's glass blocks or bricks as you mentioned. It also depends on how thick you want the wall to be. Personally, I would probably aim for bricks laid in different directions to get a slightly thicker construction. But if you don't want the brick surface and plan to plaster, I would easily go for leca or metal frame it and put up
steelis: Mine is screwed into the studs and unfortunately, I have a bit of squeak...
TorpAnders: What is the strongest method for adhering aerated concrete to iron? Thin adhesive or plaster...tile adhesive, something else? I have Tommiz's range hood in mind where he had a steel structure covered with aerated concrete and finally plaster.
jon_h: I would definitely recommend A-rated, at least where it has direct ground contact.
mattiasp: The wind barrier is diffusion-open and resists rain. These are its most important properties. Edit: Wind barriers of the Windy and Tyvek types are significantly more diffusion-open than black Vestapapp.
trojlee: I bricked up a basement garage this summer using leca, then I "plastered" the part of the foundation that was above ground and coated with mortar-B below ground... then I drained with platon, etc. I would recommend coating... mine was on the exterior of the foundation, so I applied asphalt primer and a rubber membrane ~50cm from the bottom of the foundation (at the ledge) and up... but that's
Vitahuset: Thanks for the answers! Just called the chimney sweep. According to him, I should leave 10 cm between the stud and the chimney and then bring the drywall up to the chimney. Interestingly, he mentioned that I could also bring the OSB up to the chimney. But then you still have wood against the chimney, or is OSB fireproof treated....:) Oh well.... I think I'll finish the OSB at the edge of the stud
BosseHansson: Hey. Can you install an aquapanel or similar without an air gap on the interior wall in the basement? I'm thinking of skipping the last bit of plastering, as I'm a bit tired of it. I was considering maybe throwing some plaster mortar and attaching the board to it. Or does anyone have a better suggestion? Maybe a very silly question but I know others have installed regular drywall on the inside
ByggaNytt: Exactly! Glued screws (wood glue+masoor drywall screws) the battens first and bring out the hose in a suitable arch, traced it, possibly removed the screw, brought out the router!
Jonas161: Hmmm maybe I should have done that. I'll keep it in mind next time, a bit hard to be completely clear-headed after a rock-hard weekend night at the raffet haha
HasseHunna: It's probably, as mentioned, smarter to extend the wallpaper to where the reveal begins and then paint the reveal like the windows.
gaia: If there is good ventilation, it works well to just heat the space to a temperature that is a few degrees higher than the air coming in. The more degrees of difference, the faster it dries. gaia
brevik: Hello! I'm a bit curious if I can get some tips on where to turn if we live in Stockholm and want help with the following. 1. Demolish existing stairs between floor 0 to floor 1 (U-stairs in pine) 2. Measure, order, and install a new staircase (wide spiral variant in some type of wood) that goes from floor 0 up to floor 2 but with entry/exit on floor 1. So, it will be a fairly wide spiral
snickar_lasse: Hello! It's difficult to answer when you can't see it in person. You can almost hang up as much as you want, as long as the beam is designed for the purpose and there is support underneath. You can hang up the subframes and support them against the upper frames of the trusses. You mentioned angle iron! Use hanger iron instead. You didn't mention how large the span between the trusses will be. The
Snailman: Well, I have to say I like this program, but there is a lot to learn, so I might have to take a step back and change how I create and name the different parts, but the trusses are probably fine as they are..:p You also have to consider if you want to minimize the cutting of insulation... so I come to the conclusion that it's not possible to get everything to match, so I would like to know how
Ahlbom: We have an old timber house with paneling on the outside. Now a full renovation is underway and it's the kitchen's turn. The kitchen is 5.60m wide, which is the entire width of the house. The plan is to install two windows instead of the one that is there today. The new windows are 1.15 wide and 1.30 high. The sill has been replaced down to the studs c/c 400. At some point in history, water has
HasseHunna: if you have a cast slab, use the edge beam as a boundary, where you don't lay any underfloor heating pipes. Then you can place the sill without the risk of hitting the pipes.
nattugglan11: I have somehow managed to get quite a significant scratch on the glass, it looks more like a crack but it's superficial, not through the entire glass, just on the surface, deeper than the other usual scratches. Can one fill the scratch with some material that also withstands heat? Probably not...
it-snubben: Hello again and thanks for the feedback. As a couple have pointed out, it's "only" 30kg. That's probably not much in this context. (I was probably a Russian engineer in a previous life because I like to over-engineer :) ) So hopefully there shouldn't be any problems. What feels a bit worrisome for me is that he asked me how to set it up while I myself don't have the opportunity to go there and
skullis2: if you think about a 300 liter hot water heater, that becomes about 400kg on an area of 0.36 sqm? Ola
Mats: There are profile systems for this, but they cost quite a bit, so I would drill and fix studs along the ceiling and wall, then frame up a "cage" structure and then, for example, cover it with plasterboard.
imported_Byggaren: From what I can see from the floor plan on Bv, you only have one load-bearing interior wall/core wall. It stands parallel to the staircase and is sufficiently braced perpendicular to the wall through connecting walls, so you should manage with 45x95 in it. _________________ The Builder
Travolta76: You do not need a building permit but you must make a building notification.