Building Materials and Construction Technology
Realmuppen: Hello! I've come across another beam now that I will use, a 240 HEB beam. Not free, of course, but really cheap. It's lying on the slab waiting to be lifted now...:) Thanks for the answer!
Totte_S: Sometimes there is a lack of responses and sensible tips. :-) This dilemma was solved with the help of a chisel and sledgehammer.
JanneSjo: I am going to install a balcony railing + a half wall along the staircase opening from floor 2 to floor 1 Is there a minimum height one should have for the railing?
robban: Now I know how the reinforcement looks in a lecabalk! I have sawed into one and there are 3 reinforcement bars. Two at the bottom and one at the top! It was probably 12 or 14 mm iron. They are arranged in a triangle with a number of "byglar" holding this triangle together. Note that this was a Maxit lecabalk 15*19*389 beam!
jakim: I took a rough (100mm) square beam from the scrap box at work and cut off one side so that it measured 75x100. I made it 2 bricks wider than the door opening. I put a fine mesh around the beam to keep the concrete in place on the underside. I built a form over the door when I had built up to the end of the door opening and then I first put in concrete, then the U-beam, and then filled the U-beam
imported_Byggaren: [citat] Since it is a wall that is 35 cm thick and a gable, the gable peak usually bears on the outside. It is in turn loaded with half the weight from the roof that a rafter carries. On the inside, the gable wall is loaded from the floor of the upper floor. You therefore need to insert beams on both the inside and outside to handle the load. For suggestion (for a 1.4 m width in the hole), you
kinshasa: Thanks Jon! I'll go with that solution - and I won't skimp on the moisture barrier.....:-) Many Kind Regards Jörgen
Lindgrenski: I took what I had. Redplugg that I put in the brick, then I drilled through the stud, and countersunk 57mm drywall screw through. Went better than expected, holds like a rock.
Mats: I would take the shovel and level the area where the trampoline will stand. Alternatively, dig down footings and build a frame of sturdy timber, and then make a deck to place the mat on. The trampoline construction is likely not designed for any significant lateral forces, and therefore it should be given a completely flat and stable surface.
MathiasS: The one who seeks shall find.... Here you might find some tips: http://forum.byggahus.se/byggmaterial-byggteknik/40547-miniprojekt-hal-i-baerande-vaegg-bilder.html Unfortunately, there are some issues with the image links, but the images are on the web server anyway.
Henke1975: I bow and thank you for taking the time. As it is now, the attic has been 1/3 furnished, meaning one-third has been inhabited for 5 years already. But I never even thought that I should check if it can withstand further furnishing. As for the book, I read a little about it last night, and I think I can expand my book collection by 100% by buying that book. /Henrik
sojason: Träullit sounds like something I should look into... I'll be using the hole saw on the wall tonight so I can get a cross-section to look at. I'll get back with the results!
ToeBee: Oh right, I hadn't thought about that moisture drainage. Thanks for that. And it sure is cool :-) /T
ByggaNytt: Generally, there is no need for plastic in the ceiling/floor joist if both spaces are heated to approximately the same temperature. However, today you should have plastic and remove it in the event of future room furnishing with heating.
Millox: Yes, it would work I've determined now. And it works strength-wise as well, right? It doesn't solve the problem with the rör, but if you find a door including frame that isn't higher than 205 cm, it should be able to work.
bruschen: What is the span length of the slab? 12s at the bottom feels good, and a 200 mm slab is quite thick. I would probably (without having calculated it) say 12s with 200 mm spacing in both directions as bottom reinforcement, and the mesh is more for crack limitation.
kinshasa: Thank you Krille. I think about it and now realize that the method you describe will look better. Best Regards Jörgen
erwe: I have asked myself the same question and concluded that Lecablocken weigh in their favor. I have considered moisture, insulation capacity, render carrying capability, how easy it is to build with, and not least the risk of cracks in the finished render. Good luck with the construction! Erwe
ByggaNytt: Small pieces of plyfa/OSB are fine as mentioned: [bild]
ByggaNytt: Difficult situation with old basements, as usual...... Obviously, it has worked before (?) and it should NOT be worse now with Platon + Nivell flooring, so it seems fine. However, today I would never have installed wooden studs + insulated the wall on the inside below ground level - that's not good..... Metal studs and no insulation/plastic of the part of the wall that is below ground level is
ByggaNytt: Guaranteed no horizontal simple boards :) http://www.snickargladje.se/bild_racken.htm
Custom: Upstairs in our garage will eventually become a guest room/hobby room. To avoid taking space from the garage and to prevent odors, the entrance is on the gable one flight up. In front of this door, I would like to build a small wooden deck about 2x1.2 meters (width x depth). Since the roof trusses naturally run parallel to the gable, I couldn't insert a suitable floor joist for the deck in the
Totte_S: If I understand you correctly, you mean that the renovation plasterboard doesn't go all the way over the frame, but stops where the previous trim was, and there will be a 6 mm gap if you stand in the doorway and look towards the wall. If that's the case, I understand your problem. I haven't seen trims with a notch for renovation plasterboard. I would probably choose to fill in with a strip of