It seems this isn't so easy...
For example, if you're aiming for a ceiling height of 2.70 m, there's outdoor gypsum available in the size 1200x2700. But if you let one of those go from the underside of the sill to the top of the wall plate, the indoor ceiling height becomes 2.70 - thin panel 22mm (for electrical wiring) - panel ceiling ??mm. Additionally, the thickness of the floor covering is also subtracted. So, it won't be 2.70 in ceiling height, but several centimeters less?
Is this how it's done?
For example, if you're aiming for a ceiling height of 2.70 m, there's outdoor gypsum available in the size 1200x2700. But if you let one of those go from the underside of the sill to the top of the wall plate, the indoor ceiling height becomes 2.70 - thin panel 22mm (for electrical wiring) - panel ceiling ??mm. Additionally, the thickness of the floor covering is also subtracted. So, it won't be 2.70 in ceiling height, but several centimeters less?
Is this how it's done?
No exactly, but something complicated should exist when building a house, right 
I think it's hard to avoid cutting some plasterboards somewhere.
Here we discuss this problem, but only interior walls, no exterior gypsum is involved.
http://forum.byggahus.se/loesvirke/72082-reglar.html
I think it's hard to avoid cutting some plasterboards somewhere.
Here we discuss this problem, but only interior walls, no exterior gypsum is involved.
http://forum.byggahus.se/loesvirke/72082-reglar.html
Well, I think I've ended up somewhere around there... but if you want the insulation to match, you should preferably have cc 600, which is also specified by drywall manufacturers for their boards... but 2700 would ideally be 4x600+300
Before I decide how to proceed, I would like to know how the house manufacturers usually do it?
In my 20-year-old house, I have slightly more than 2.40 in actual height indoors (between the ceiling panel and the floor surface, that is).
I've seen that there are exterior drywall boards that are 3000 as well... I'll check what's usually available at the lumber yards, otherwise, I'll have to order them, but it's not so fun if they're much more expensive. I don't really like installing them horizontally; I prefer vertical joints over horizontal ones.
I also have to decide what to do with the outer wall above the wall plate, whether to use that type of lattice panel or let the panel go up to the roof decking. And on the gables, extra long boards or a joint along the way...
So there's a large number of decisions to make...
Before I decide how to proceed, I would like to know how the house manufacturers usually do it?
In my 20-year-old house, I have slightly more than 2.40 in actual height indoors (between the ceiling panel and the floor surface, that is).
I've seen that there are exterior drywall boards that are 3000 as well... I'll check what's usually available at the lumber yards, otherwise, I'll have to order them, but it's not so fun if they're much more expensive. I don't really like installing them horizontally; I prefer vertical joints over horizontal ones.
I also have to decide what to do with the outer wall above the wall plate, whether to use that type of lattice panel or let the panel go up to the roof decking. And on the gables, extra long boards or a joint along the way...
So there's a large number of decisions to make...
But the outdoor plaster Should you have standing And then cc60 between the studs ...
Or wait, that's right, you were thinking of having horizontal 45x45s on the outside, correct?
Regarding the wall to ceiling connection, you are planning to have an air gap under the raw wood, right?
And then cc60 between the studs ...Or wait, that's right, you were thinking of having horizontal 45x45s on the outside, correct?
Regarding the wall to ceiling connection, you are planning to have an air gap under the raw wood, right?
I am choosing between these two methods:
http://www.hudikhus.se/varahus/leveransdeklaration.pdf see the last page
http://www.folkvillan.se/main.aspx?pageID=362
so yes, there should be ventilation.
Yes, I will have horizontal 45x45 both inside and outside
Here they seem to be talking about exterior gypsum both horizontal and vertical http://www.moland-skive.dk/PDF%20sverige/pdf_gipshandb/37-39.pdf
Edit, just realized that it probably has to be this type http://www.hudikhus.se/varahus/leveransdeklaration.pdf
http://www.hudikhus.se/varahus/leveransdeklaration.pdf see the last page
http://www.folkvillan.se/main.aspx?pageID=362
so yes, there should be ventilation.
Yes, I will have horizontal 45x45 both inside and outside
Here they seem to be talking about exterior gypsum both horizontal and vertical http://www.moland-skive.dk/PDF%20sverige/pdf_gipshandb/37-39.pdf
Edit, just realized that it probably has to be this type http://www.hudikhus.se/varahus/leveransdeklaration.pdf
Well, I have to say I like this program, but there is a lot to learn, so I might have to take a step back and change how I create and name the different parts, but the trusses are probably fine as they are..
You also have to consider if you want to minimize the cutting of insulation...
so I come to the conclusion that it's not possible to get everything to match, so I would like to know how some different house manufacturers have done it.
That is, the distance between the top plate and the sole plate, the height of the exterior plasterboard, and the height of the OSB/gypsum board on the inside, and how high from the ground plate you've mounted the board, etc...
You also have to consider if you want to minimize the cutting of insulation...
so I come to the conclusion that it's not possible to get everything to match, so I would like to know how some different house manufacturers have done it.
That is, the distance between the top plate and the sole plate, the height of the exterior plasterboard, and the height of the OSB/gypsum board on the inside, and how high from the ground plate you've mounted the board, etc...
