Hello!
I need help choosing glue. I am laying 14mm oak parquet in a pine staircase. The staircase is open, without risers. The parquet is glued with PL400, which has worked very well. Now I plan to glue a 12x56mm oak molding at the back of the step to hide the joint between the pine step and the parquet. The joint between the oak molding and the parquet will be visible from above, so it's important that it looks nice without gaps. I thought to allow the molding to go a couple of millimeters below the step itself and lay a thin line of latex, which should look good since the steps are painted white underneath.
To show what I mean, I have linked a simple, not entirely to scale, paint sketch.
Red = already glued with PL400.
Green = the joint between molding and parquet and step.
Pink = intended latex joint
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=6574767
My questions now concern how I should attach the molding to the step and parquet.
1, Which glue should I use? I'm considering a regular white wood glue for outdoor use since I've read here on the forum that it can move a bit (unlike white wood glue for indoor use which is more rigid), which feels like a good thing. It seems difficult to get a nice joint from above between the molding and parquet with PL400, which is another reason why I'm leaning towards regular wood glue.
2, Should I glue along the entire green line? I'm wondering if the fact that the oak parquet and the pine step will probably move a bit differently means that if I glue all the way, there's a risk that the molding will detach from either the parquet or the step. Perhaps I should only glue the molding to the parquet with white wood glue, and use a few small dabs of PL400 between the molding and the pine step?
3, Is it a reasonable option to screw? My idea is that I might glue the molding to the parquet with white wood glue, and then use nice brass screws screwed into a slightly too large hole (in the molding, that is) so that only the head presses the molding against the pine step. Especially if you don't screw the screw too tightly, it might allow enough room for movement. Ideally, I want to avoid screws as it looks better glued in my opinion.
Other ideas or advice are greatly appreciated!
//daniel
I need help choosing glue. I am laying 14mm oak parquet in a pine staircase. The staircase is open, without risers. The parquet is glued with PL400, which has worked very well. Now I plan to glue a 12x56mm oak molding at the back of the step to hide the joint between the pine step and the parquet. The joint between the oak molding and the parquet will be visible from above, so it's important that it looks nice without gaps. I thought to allow the molding to go a couple of millimeters below the step itself and lay a thin line of latex, which should look good since the steps are painted white underneath.
To show what I mean, I have linked a simple, not entirely to scale, paint sketch.
Red = already glued with PL400.
Green = the joint between molding and parquet and step.
Pink = intended latex joint
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=6574767
My questions now concern how I should attach the molding to the step and parquet.
1, Which glue should I use? I'm considering a regular white wood glue for outdoor use since I've read here on the forum that it can move a bit (unlike white wood glue for indoor use which is more rigid), which feels like a good thing. It seems difficult to get a nice joint from above between the molding and parquet with PL400, which is another reason why I'm leaning towards regular wood glue.
2, Should I glue along the entire green line? I'm wondering if the fact that the oak parquet and the pine step will probably move a bit differently means that if I glue all the way, there's a risk that the molding will detach from either the parquet or the step. Perhaps I should only glue the molding to the parquet with white wood glue, and use a few small dabs of PL400 between the molding and the pine step?
3, Is it a reasonable option to screw? My idea is that I might glue the molding to the parquet with white wood glue, and then use nice brass screws screwed into a slightly too large hole (in the molding, that is) so that only the head presses the molding against the pine step. Especially if you don't screw the screw too tightly, it might allow enough room for movement. Ideally, I want to avoid screws as it looks better glued in my opinion.
Other ideas or advice are greatly appreciated!
//daniel
I have installed Alloc laminate in the same way on the stairs, then a white lacquered MDF trim on the front and back edges.
I used Danalim MS Montage for the trim and clamped with quick clamps to achieve an exact fit.
It turned out very well.
Best regards, Tobbe
I used Danalim MS Montage for the trim and clamped with quick clamps to achieve an exact fit.
It turned out very well.
Best regards, Tobbe
PL600 is much more pleasant to work with than PL400 and is recommended unless you specifically need PL400. Here, I would definitely have used PL600 since it's about wood against wood, etc.
/Kent
/Kent
How does PL600 dry? Does it become transparent like wood glue? I'm thinking if any part of the joint between parquet/trim isn't 100%, then a transparent glue (when it has dried) is quite nice.snickarboden said:
How much movement can PL600 withstand?
What do you think about gluing all the way, or just against the parquet?
It becomes approximately as strong as a latex joint.Daniel_N said:
PL600 is very nice to work with, but in terms of durability, it's a failure.
PL400 is said to be unsuitable for use when covering stairs with parquet (I hope that's an incorrect statement...) because it becomes too hard over time and releases instead of following the wood's movements. Sika T2 is said to handle the task brilliantly.
I can add that the source in this case is Ardbo/Kährs, so unfortunately it's probably reliable.
I have heard the same thing, and have also seen treads in parquet glued with PL400 that have worked without problem. Time will tell how it turns out.ACME said:
How is Sika T2 when it has hardened? Transparent or yellow and ugly like PL400?
PL600 turns white when it dries.
That PL600 would be a failure in terms of strength is not my experience, but of course, there's a difference between various adhesives. PL400 is an extremely strong and versatile adhesive and can bond materials that PL600 cannot. The strength of PL600 is significantly increased if the joint can be pressed for a short time, and in some cases, it's a must; it doesn't set the same way as PL400, and it takes some getting used to the adhesive.
Well, to be exact, there are very few types of adhesive that beat ordinary white wood glue as long as it's wood to wood; the downside is that it requires press pressure.
If one requires the adhesive joint to withstand movements, then perhaps high-quality silicone adhesive should be considered.
/Kent
That PL600 would be a failure in terms of strength is not my experience, but of course, there's a difference between various adhesives. PL400 is an extremely strong and versatile adhesive and can bond materials that PL600 cannot. The strength of PL600 is significantly increased if the joint can be pressed for a short time, and in some cases, it's a must; it doesn't set the same way as PL400, and it takes some getting used to the adhesive.
Well, to be exact, there are very few types of adhesive that beat ordinary white wood glue as long as it's wood to wood; the downside is that it requires press pressure.
If one requires the adhesive joint to withstand movements, then perhaps high-quality silicone adhesive should be considered.
/Kent
A bit of thread hijacking, but it's still about glue...
What do you use to glue roof tiles??
We've always used PL400, but I'm not completely satisfied with it. In the valleys, you'd want something that grabs faster so you don't have to use glue clamps on each gluing and wait until the next day to cut.
I've also tried PL600 which is supposed to be faster, but I'm not sure about that either...
Glue gun maybe??
What do you use to glue roof tiles??
We've always used PL400, but I'm not completely satisfied with it. In the valleys, you'd want something that grabs faster so you don't have to use glue clamps on each gluing and wait until the next day to cut.
I've also tried PL600 which is supposed to be faster, but I'm not sure about that either...
Glue gun maybe??
It is and remains white. The downside of T2 is that it's quite difficult to squeeze out of the tube (it broke the rivets on my electric caulking gun. Admittedly a Skil, but still..). However, it grips a bit better than PL400. In Sika's promotional video for the adhesive, it was used to mount bathroom cabinets without supporting the cabinet.Daniel_N said:
A colleague was tasked with replacing a bunch of countertops in a rental property. These were glued with PL600 and it was possible to pull them off solely with hand strength. When we heard about this, we did some test gluing and concluded that we would stop using the 600 model.
Styx!
What do you mean by gluing roof tiles? Are you gluing two together sideways so they hold better over the valley gutter? Is that really possible?
What do you mean by gluing roof tiles? Are you gluing two together sideways so they hold better over the valley gutter? Is that really possible?
In the valleys, there are often small pieces that do not receive proper support from the battens. We glue these laterally to the adjacent tile and then cut them so that there is a straight, clean line along the valley.
White wood glue is guaranteed to stick, PVAC glues are the optimal glues for wood-to-wood but they require some press time. The winter variant is only for indoors and it's called winter because you should be able to keep it in a service vehicle on cold winter days, it is, in other words, frost-protected.
Checked a bit more about PL600 and its siblings... PL600 must have an absorbent surface for the water in the glue to evaporate, i.e., two laminate-coated surfaces will not bond sufficiently, whereas a strip against a wall is no problem at all. The difference in strength between PL600 and PL400 is negligible, but this is under the condition that the materials are suitable for PL600. PL600 is only for indoor use.
A glue that I just have to test is PL200, which seems mildly put impressive. More fast-drying than PL400 and apparently it's possible to apply the glue to a brick and then attach it to a wall without any support! So if you see some bricks glued here and there, you know who has been around *S*
The downside of PL200 is that spills are removed with pure gasoline, just like PL400, and that's one of the reasons I prefer PL600, it's no fun getting glue spills on finished surfaces and not being able to remove it. Plus, I already have problems with dry skin on my hands, so the less solvent I use, the better.
I guess PL200 would be a pretty good glue for roof tiles.
Sikabond T2 mentioned I haven't tested, but according to the data sheet, it is a PU glue and those glues usually need high press pressures because PU expands, PU = Polyurethane.
/Kent
Checked a bit more about PL600 and its siblings... PL600 must have an absorbent surface for the water in the glue to evaporate, i.e., two laminate-coated surfaces will not bond sufficiently, whereas a strip against a wall is no problem at all. The difference in strength between PL600 and PL400 is negligible, but this is under the condition that the materials are suitable for PL600. PL600 is only for indoor use.
A glue that I just have to test is PL200, which seems mildly put impressive. More fast-drying than PL400 and apparently it's possible to apply the glue to a brick and then attach it to a wall without any support! So if you see some bricks glued here and there, you know who has been around *S*
The downside of PL200 is that spills are removed with pure gasoline, just like PL400, and that's one of the reasons I prefer PL600, it's no fun getting glue spills on finished surfaces and not being able to remove it. Plus, I already have problems with dry skin on my hands, so the less solvent I use, the better.
I guess PL200 would be a pretty good glue for roof tiles.
Sikabond T2 mentioned I haven't tested, but according to the data sheet, it is a PU glue and those glues usually need high press pressures because PU expands, PU = Polyurethane.
/Kent
That PL200 would be faster than PL400 is not my experience.. We have tried it on brick, but if anything it's even harder to get it to bond quickly than PL400.. Additionally, it's black and quite visible (at least against brick red 
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