Ok, that it's black I had missed so then it will be to try a bit from Plastic Padding's range instead.
/Kent
/Kent
Styx>Casco's Täta Tak 3902 is terracotta and is based on MS-Polymer.
I found it when I was searching a bit there and I am currently testing Casco SuperFix... The adhesive seems mildly impressive, but I will see tomorrow when the adhesive joints have dried. Yep, it is entirely possible to put a brick on the wall directly
http://www.cascose.dk/_upl/pdf/produktblade/SuperFix.pdf
I'll get back, but something tells me that I'll be using Casco SuperFix (SMP-Polymer) for critical bonding indoors and outdoors, and PL600 for normal use in furniture installation. However, for wood to wood, I will continue with regular white wood glue.
/Kent
I found it when I was searching a bit there and I am currently testing Casco SuperFix... The adhesive seems mildly impressive, but I will see tomorrow when the adhesive joints have dried. Yep, it is entirely possible to put a brick on the wall directly
http://www.cascose.dk/_upl/pdf/produktblade/SuperFix.pdf
I'll get back, but something tells me that I'll be using Casco SuperFix (SMP-Polymer) for critical bonding indoors and outdoors, and PL600 for normal use in furniture installation. However, for wood to wood, I will continue with regular white wood glue.
/Kent
For regular wood glue to work, it is essential that the wood is untreated on both glue surfaces. If you are going to glue to an old stair step, it is often lacquered or similar. In that case, you must first remove the lacquer layer.
That sounds excellent.. I'll get it immediately and try it in the next roof renovation..!!!snickarboden said:Styx>Casco's Täta Tak 3902 is brick red and is based on MS-Polymer.
Found it while searching a bit and am currently testing Casco SuperFix... The adhesive seems mildly impressive but will see tomorrow when the glue joints have dried. Yep, it's entirely possible to attach a brick directly on the wall
[link]
Will report back, something tells me though that I will be using Casco SuperFix (SMP-Polymer) for critical bonding indoors and outdoors and PL600 for normal use when installing fixtures; for wood to wood, however, I will continue with regular white wood glue.
/Kent
So, I tested the glue joints today, but first a bit of information...
The materials glued were wood against wood, planed elm against sawn pine, as well as melamine-coated chipboard against melamine-coated chipboard and the end surface of chipboard against melamine-coated chipboard.
The glues tested were the following.
Casco Superfix (SMP-Polymer)
Plastic Padding Ultra
Tremco PL600
and then I couldn't resist testing with latex sealant as well.
The water-based glues must have an absorbent surface to adhere at all, and this was very noticeable in the joint between the melamine-coated surfaces; only Casco Superfix is impossible to separate there.
End surface of chipboard against melamine can be considered equivalent to wood against, for example, a painted wall, and there the strength is as the table above, and even there the joint glued with Casco Superfix cannot be separated. The others came apart more or less easily, but then you might want to consider how you want to use those glues; it's certainly not fun to bring down the entire wall to remove glued floor moldings or trim. Both PL600 and Plastic Padding Ultra attach and hold such things in place, possibly with the help of brads, latex can work but does not stick in the same way.
Even between wood against wood, the strength was as the table above, the Superfix had to be pried apart with a knife that opened the joint, and Plastic Padding Ultra felt much stronger than PL600 here as well, the latex doesn't work at all. A joint with regular white wood glue (PVAC) would have been completely impossible to separate after 12 hours of drying time; the wood would have given way before the glue joint.
The drying time of all those tested is at least 12 hours, and the time that passed here before they were tested was about 18 hours, which I would say is quite normal if you glue something the day before and then continue working the next day.
All tested had a white joint, and the excess from the glue joint feels and is handled somewhat like latex; Superfix is more "smudgy" and has a more "silicone-like" "greasy" feel. None of the glues contained solvents and are classified as environmentally friendly, which is a big plus for me as I prefer to avoid thinner, white spirit, gasoline, etc.
None of the glues had any noticeable odor, as confirmed by some safety data sheets.
It's important for me that glue spills can be easily removed from a painted surface or other surfaces, and there's Superfix’s only weak point, it smears quite a bit, so one should be cautious.
All glues are paintable, which is a factor to consider for interior work.
All glues keep well in the cartridge after use, Casco and Plastic Padding also have screw caps to seal the cartridge after use, which I see as a plus since there have been "a few" cartridges of PL400 etc that you've glued with once and then had to throw away.
Not a scientific test directly, but strength-wise it gave me a picture of what I can expect in terms of strength, and the only one that could approach PL400's strength is Superfix. Superfix is also the only one of these three that handles outdoor gluing.
None of the glues above needs venting like PL400; instead, they should be pressed quickly and firmly and then left to dry in peace.
I hope this is of some help to others.
/Kent
The materials glued were wood against wood, planed elm against sawn pine, as well as melamine-coated chipboard against melamine-coated chipboard and the end surface of chipboard against melamine-coated chipboard.
The glues tested were the following.
Casco Superfix (SMP-Polymer)
Plastic Padding Ultra
Tremco PL600
and then I couldn't resist testing with latex sealant as well.
The water-based glues must have an absorbent surface to adhere at all, and this was very noticeable in the joint between the melamine-coated surfaces; only Casco Superfix is impossible to separate there.
End surface of chipboard against melamine can be considered equivalent to wood against, for example, a painted wall, and there the strength is as the table above, and even there the joint glued with Casco Superfix cannot be separated. The others came apart more or less easily, but then you might want to consider how you want to use those glues; it's certainly not fun to bring down the entire wall to remove glued floor moldings or trim. Both PL600 and Plastic Padding Ultra attach and hold such things in place, possibly with the help of brads, latex can work but does not stick in the same way.
Even between wood against wood, the strength was as the table above, the Superfix had to be pried apart with a knife that opened the joint, and Plastic Padding Ultra felt much stronger than PL600 here as well, the latex doesn't work at all. A joint with regular white wood glue (PVAC) would have been completely impossible to separate after 12 hours of drying time; the wood would have given way before the glue joint.
The drying time of all those tested is at least 12 hours, and the time that passed here before they were tested was about 18 hours, which I would say is quite normal if you glue something the day before and then continue working the next day.
All tested had a white joint, and the excess from the glue joint feels and is handled somewhat like latex; Superfix is more "smudgy" and has a more "silicone-like" "greasy" feel. None of the glues contained solvents and are classified as environmentally friendly, which is a big plus for me as I prefer to avoid thinner, white spirit, gasoline, etc.
None of the glues had any noticeable odor, as confirmed by some safety data sheets.
It's important for me that glue spills can be easily removed from a painted surface or other surfaces, and there's Superfix’s only weak point, it smears quite a bit, so one should be cautious.
All glues are paintable, which is a factor to consider for interior work.
All glues keep well in the cartridge after use, Casco and Plastic Padding also have screw caps to seal the cartridge after use, which I see as a plus since there have been "a few" cartridges of PL400 etc that you've glued with once and then had to throw away.
Not a scientific test directly, but strength-wise it gave me a picture of what I can expect in terms of strength, and the only one that could approach PL400's strength is Superfix. Superfix is also the only one of these three that handles outdoor gluing.
None of the glues above needs venting like PL400; instead, they should be pressed quickly and firmly and then left to dry in peace.
I hope this is of some help to others.
/Kent