Building Materials and Construction Technology
somelvis: Save just in case? Is he unsure? If it's not load-bearing, it's not load-bearing. If you're unsure, don't do it. There's no easy formula to roughly calculate when you don't know where load-bearing walls are located and what kind of concrete is above. Best regards
stonelink: Check the BKR Boverket's construction regulations. Borrow from the library or check online. Lasse
Kemi: 7m is long. I am going to open a wall that is about 3.6m, will use a 90x270x3600 Glulam beam. So in your case, it will probably be a significantly thicker variant, maybe consider a steel beam or a Kerto beam instead. www.moelven.com There are some calculation programs there.
Kemi: Casco has introduced a new SuperFix, twice as strong as SuperSet and dries in half the time. DanaLim Ms Montage is also a variant, grotesquely strong.
Saxpy: I had masons who did the same thing for me. 2 masons over three full days, demolition, rebuilding, and cleaning(!!!). For that, I ended up paying 20kkr... Not fun at all...
Eklundh: Hello! Just wanted to thank you for your response. I haven't been on for a while now because my son has just undergone surgery. Thanks once again. Best regards, Eklundh
Anonymiserad 23608: If there are only a few studs causing bumps, you can plane them down with an electric planer and take the last bit at the ends with a sharp chisel. If the studs are very uneven, it might be easier to shim them with masonite strips or thin battens in the "dips." If it's new construction, metal studs are preferable, just as mats_o says.
Faidros: [citat] "than other heavy-duty duct tapes"
ktm250: I can definitely recommend ITW Spit F40. It works as peter.holm mentions above.
robhol: I would place a beam on either side and both glue and then screw with through bolts (stud bolts). After that, I would create the hole, which should be as centered as possible, and push the pipe through. If it's not possible to push the pipe through, it becomes significantly more difficult of course - that's what you wanted an answer on, right...? /Rob
bmx: As mentioned, there is glue for gluing solid wood flooring directly to concrete slabs with high humidity (RH>65%). But if you're skeptical, lay tiles so you don't have to worry. I used: http://www.cascose.dk/_upl/pdf/produktblade/Proflex%203470.pdf but I had floor gypsum between the concrete and the wood. I believe what is relevant if you're going to glue to concrete/screed where RH is higher
Faidros: I also think it sounds reasonable. It's a shame to tear up functioning underfloor heating. But you can check through these old threads just to be sure: Klinker på klinker Klinker på klinker Klinker på klinker Klinker på klinker
TurboTouring: Here you can find a bit of everything: http://www.culturedstone.com/products/stone.asp Retailers: http://www.ffkakel.se/
Allegatan: We are going to build a masonry stove hood around a corner. What should we consider? Where can we find pictures for inspiration? Material?:confused:
hedasgatan: Hello, Conditions: Turn-of-the-century apartment with interior walls either in timber or brick, both types with plaster on the outside. I want to remove the plaster, as it is damaged in several places and uneven, and replace it with drywall. At the same time, I will install electrical conduits. What thickness do the studs need to have (I want to build out as little as possible in the room)? I am
Patrick Jakiel: I think I have solved the kitchen issue, I'll probably lay the floor underneath as in the post above. However, I'm still wondering if anyone has any tips about the kitchen island - are there advantages to having flooring underneath?
kodapa: Hi Thanks for the info and the link. Best regards Martin
jon_h: For example, Schönox 1K-DS, but there are equivalents from many different brands. It is perfectly fine to apply it yourself, check here for assembly instructions for the Schönox system.
BosseHansson: If you fix the window, it will be troublesome when the kids have played football ;) Personally, I would have chosen to have a moulding or similar in one direction so you can remove the window. Then you could glue the window with something like pl400 and then glue a thin moulding that only sits in the window so you can just break it off without damaging the plaster if the pane breaks.
midvinter: We are working on similar projects. I can't quite see how it looks in the pictures... We had a construction company remove the garage doors, cast up with reinforcement up to the level at the gate itself. (i.e., I recommend removing the rusty iron angle). Then a leca wall was built. We rented a good concrete grinder and ground the entire floor, then leveled the whole floor with leveling compound
anna_jimmy: You need much more info to be able to calculate the dimensions of the beam, but contact a designer or structural engineer, they can help. The municipality can usually help as well. Call some companies and check prices, they can probably vary a lot.
andersmc: It is quite impossible to calculate exactly what quantities and dimensions we're dealing with, especially if it's brackets and angle irons involved. There are quite a few varieties... You don't want to purchase unnecessarily many that then go unused. Nor do you want the construction to come to a halt with four carpenters at 500 kr/hour + a mobile crane at 2000 just standing and waiting while you
andersw: Had probably planned to lower the ceiling anyway, but maybe not so much ;)
P-plats: Insert a blind rivet nut, like a "pop rivet" but with an internal thread in...
Kalleman: Damn, missed that you had replied so excellently. :) Yes, a pipe and a pot or kettle it will be. Cheap and good. I have a fair grasp on the time, 2 minutes per millimeter of wood I've heard and it matches quite well with an hour per inch. Then the wood isn't ruined by being in too long, so you can always take a little extra time. Thanks for the tips!
plus: The house was built in 1943 and it has a crawl space underneath (=cold). So, I guess it will be about insulating as well as possible. Is it OK to screw the battens through the tar paper and into the wooden beam? I won't damage the moisture barrier that way?