Building Materials and Construction Technology
zankan: [citat] It should be done in all cases, it costs little and is well-spent money.....
jon_h: I don't know if there's any point to that test. It is okay with a layer of gypsum on c/c 450 mm. And cardboard gypsum can be used until 1/7 2008. :)
ByggaNytt: http://forum.byggahus.se/byggmaterial-byggteknik/74348-hur-haenga-koek-i-laettbetong-vaegg.html
imported_peter: Thank you for your answers. I suspected that I could use a smaller drill and drill many holes. That's how it will be. Brilliant. Thanks...
mins: Hello everyone, We are going to install a fireplace (contura 520T). The stove will be placed against a supporting brick wall. The connection to the chimney will be offset to the left from the stove, so a 45-degree bend must be used to the chimney. The kitchen that will soon be installed will be on the other side of the support wall, i.e., opposite the stove with a brick wall in between. This
midvinter: Yes, of course. Lecablock and hollow concrete blocks as the exterior wall. We have insulated internally. The wooden studs are placed 2 cm above the concrete slab. Do not want the wooden studs directly against an uninsulated concrete slab. What I mean is that it will be draughty where we do not have any insulation closest to the concrete slab, as the insulation is on the wooden studs. But it can
jakim: Keep in mind that it's not so fun in the winter with snow and a shiny concrete floor...
Totte_S: I believe you can use Stucanet http://byggsystem.knaufdanogips.se/mounting/gypsum_plaster/stucanet/index.html and then plaster with gipsputs to get a somewhat smooth surface. Assumes that you do not have open steps, but have sättsteg, i.e., so you cannot see through.
it-snubben: It varies between manufacturers and even between different models. It is indicated in the assembly instructions. When it comes to mounting, some have mounting brackets and others have crossbars in the cabinets.
christiang: I am planning to demolish an interior wall and I don't know if it's load-bearing. The wall consists of 45x70 studs and when I look up at the ceiling, there are also studs over the wall. The wall is about 2.5m long and there is a doorway in it. My questions are: Can it really be a load-bearing wall if it only has 45x70 studs? If it is load-bearing, what dimension is needed for a stud/glulam beam
it-snubben: It can certainly be correct. Measurements differ from manufacturer to manufacturer and model to model. Personally, I have my stove about 10 cm from the wall with single-layer plasterboard. Completely according to the requirements that were set. In my case, the only place I had to add heat protection was in the ceiling above.
Martin_Blomberg: Have you looked through the long thread at the top of this section of the forum? "Pinned: Shopping for building materials abroad ( 1 2 3 ... Last page)" I think there were some good links there, otherwise http://www.polenshopping.se/
Patrick Jakiel: Thanks and bowing for the answers! Indeed, the beam above the doorway should be screwed in since that wall is made of concrete - I believe it will still be sturdy! That's great, then there will be room for the wardrobes without any issues.
jakim: A picture if I explained poorly... I think the roofing felt should be first and go up on the wall and then you lay the sheet metal on top. The battens go on top of the sheet metal....?
fn76: Or here... http://www.tjallden.se/BizPart.aspx?tabId=44
Beppo: Just as you say, it should be supported without a truss, but it's a bit different for different stairs. However, if the wall on the right is load-bearing, I can't imagine that you can't remove it. You have no post inside the house within the staircase as far as I can see in the picture, and it holds up.
BosseHansson: I would probably have aimed for welded mesh instead if I were to set up netting. That, a couple of boxes of nail plugs, and wire should do the trick. If the walls are straight, it should go fairly quickly and should be doable for most who are somewhat handy. It might be smart to plan if you will have electrical conduits, etc., running in the wall.
BosseHansson: There are some pictures here: http://larrys.mine.nu/bilder/kallare2007/ I went to the metalworker and asked them to bend some rails that I had to draw off. Used plastic hose as spacers to get it straight. Then it was just a matter of biting the bullet and laying it on as well as possible. I could probably manage up to 10mm at a time without having everything on the floor. Watered the wall first
Mr_XXX: Winter glue doesn't "grab" as quickly under pressure, making it easier to handle since you have some time to make adjustments. With regular glue, you almost can't place things before it grips tightly.
Linus_E: drawing a parallel to our very old house. we opened up a wall like a "window" when we began to handle it carefully, it turned out that the wall that wasn't load-bearing from the start had become so after all the years it settled and a few renovations. so open the wall and check if there is "pressure" on them, don't just go with the saw directly... a small picture goes our renovation with this
Lillaivy: We are setting up an old log building with large rooms. Approximately 35 m2. The floor in the room above is sagging despite the fact that we have both cross battens and reinforced with 2 transverse supports. We can live with the sagging but are concerned that our quality supervisor will not approve it. Are there any regulations?
snickar_lasse: Hello rhubarb wine! The sand thing was a joke. I thought that metal could be better to vault with, rather than using it as a blind bottom. You can lay a vault with metal, cast in, and let the metal remain.
hempularen: When I installed spaced paneling, I nailed up a "loop" at one end, placed the board in it so that it was lying perhaps 10cm below the ceiling, and then started mounting from the other end, an easy way to manage it alone without help. I screwed, mostly because I was a bit unsure if the heavy gypsum boards would pull out the nails. Plus, I also realized that it would be tiresome to hammer upwards.
billy.b: Yes, we had a surveyor during the purchase, and I've had a bit of contact with him now. He himself thought it was obviously a hidden defect, but I want to hear what others say. During the survey, he didn't say anything; the only thing mentioned in the papers is that the house was re-paneled in 1994. We bought the house in 2003, so it was already a few years old, plus it was already in need of
ktm250: The biggest difference between pros and amateurs, I think, lies in the choice of the right product. Unfortunately, amateurs often fall for products like husfix, thinking it's some kind of all-round product, but in very few cases is it suitable.
Realmuppen: Okay, then I think I understand, the records I had in the attic were on top of the sawdust insulation.
ippo: Is there anyone who has more experience with Palikka or DoroTherm..... I'm interested in these systems!!!