I have a gadget-loving little brother who has gotten himself a 42-inch TV. 
The problem is that they want to mount it on the wall in a rental apartment. While it needs to be securely mounted, they also need to minimize the impact on the wall.
How to do it? According to him, the wall is concrete, and they have had trouble drilling into it in other situations. So it sounds like the wall is really hard.
The TV weighs 31 kg, is there any reasonable chance to mount it with these conditions? Stable, but with minimal impact?
A side question:
What do you think the landlord (Lulebo) has to say about this? I've never lived in a rental apartment... Are you usually allowed to make these kinds of alterations?
The problem is that they want to mount it on the wall in a rental apartment. While it needs to be securely mounted, they also need to minimize the impact on the wall.
How to do it? According to him, the wall is concrete, and they have had trouble drilling into it in other situations. So it sounds like the wall is really hard.
The TV weighs 31 kg, is there any reasonable chance to mount it with these conditions? Stable, but with minimal impact?
A side question:
What do you think the landlord (Lulebo) has to say about this? I've never lived in a rental apartment... Are you usually allowed to make these kinds of alterations?
You only need to drill two holes to mount the TV, it's really straightforward. However, it's impossible to drill into this type of concrete without a drill with impact. With an impact drill and the right type of bit, it's quickly done.
Do you mean it's enough to hang it at two points? I think it sounds weak.
I'm not sure exactly what type of machine they have used before (it's 55 miles between us, so I'm not there too often), but I assume it's a machine with impact. What I meant with the text is that I don't think it's some form of aerated concrete, but more likely a very hard, compact concrete wall.
I'm not sure exactly what type of machine they have used before (it's 55 miles between us, so I'm not there too often), but I assume it's a machine with impact. What I meant with the text is that I don't think it's some form of aerated concrete, but more likely a very hard, compact concrete wall.
One point is probably enough, though with the risk that the TV spins around like a Ferris wheel.
30 kilos is "nothing" when we're talking about attaching to a wooden wall or concrete wall.
I might get a slap on the fingers from the Builder here on the forum, but the datasheet says, for example, an 8mm nylon anchor with the right screw can handle a tensile load equivalent to 80kg and a shear load (i.e., downward) of over 100kg. The safety factor in both directions is set to 6.0 if you use the largest screw dimension for the anchor.
Two attachment points therefore hold over 200kg.
30 kilos is "nothing" when we're talking about attaching to a wooden wall or concrete wall.
I might get a slap on the fingers from the Builder here on the forum, but the datasheet says, for example, an 8mm nylon anchor with the right screw can handle a tensile load equivalent to 80kg and a shear load (i.e., downward) of over 100kg. The safety factor in both directions is set to 6.0 if you use the largest screw dimension for the anchor.
Two attachment points therefore hold over 200kg.
MathiasS probably means that it should be a rotary hammer. Then it's quickly done. I read on another forum:
"A rotary hammer is for drilling holes in concrete and a hammer drill is for playing jokes on your helper."
Another quote:
"I'll never buy another hammer drill. Drills are for making holes in wood, steel, plastic, etc. Impact drivers are for driving fasteners. SDS is for making holes in concrete or stone. Period."
"A rotary hammer is for drilling holes in concrete and a hammer drill is for playing jokes on your helper."
Another quote:
"I'll never buy another hammer drill. Drills are for making holes in wood, steel, plastic, etc. Impact drivers are for driving fasteners. SDS is for making holes in concrete or stone. Period."
Lulebo doesn't care in the slightest if there are two holes drilled in the wall, I had significantly more when I moved out of the apartment after buying a house and it was Lulebo. I even had four holes in the ceiling after the projector mount...
Ask little brother to rent a rotary hammer, like a Hilti, at Cramo out in Storheden, and it will be quick to make the holes. With a hammer drill, you'll have to rub for a long time...
Ask little brother to rent a rotary hammer, like a Hilti, at Cramo out in Storheden, and it will be quick to make the holes. With a hammer drill, you'll have to rub for a long time...
There are hammer drills and there are hammer drills. I meant hammer drill. I have an AEG myself that works excellently for this tough concrete used to build large houses....mattiasp said:
A rotary hammer works too, of course.
I have a hammer drill of the brand Default DW158. It's completely useless for drilling in concrete. On the advice of the forum, I acquired a Chinese rotary hammer at Bauhaus. It actually works just as well as a real one (Hilti). It naturally won't last as long, but with the Bauhaus 5-year guarantee, it feels like a good purchase.
have a Biltema hammer and it does the job well enough. Had to replace it once under warranty, the plastic cracked. However, I miss the Hilti I had when I built the storage. You had to be careful with that, otherwise, you'd quickly go through ten cm of concrete with an 8 mm drill but back to the original question. You can also drill the holes slightly downward. It makes everything even stronger.
Exactly my experiences! Hammer drill in the concrete walls where we live is terrible, but with a rotary hammer, it works fantastically well. I bought a cheap one at Jula a few years ago. It only cost a couple of hundred kronor, and one of the best purchases I've ever made. However, you need to be somewhat careful with the cheaper machines. If the drill "catches" in the wall, it's not fun to hold the machine. I think that the more expensive machines, like Hilti, have some kind of lock that makes the drill stop if the machine itself (if you know what I mean) starts to rotate.mattiasp said:
Hello again and thanks for the feedback.
As a couple have pointed out, it's "only" 30kg. That's probably not much in this context. (I was probably a Russian engineer in a previous life because I like to over-engineer )
So hopefully there shouldn't be any problems. What feels a bit worrisome for me is that he asked me how to set it up while I myself don't have the opportunity to go there and check how it even looks on site.
As a couple have pointed out, it's "only" 30kg. That's probably not much in this context. (I was probably a Russian engineer in a previous life because I like to over-engineer
)So hopefully there shouldn't be any problems. What feels a bit worrisome for me is that he asked me how to set it up while I myself don't have the opportunity to go there and check how it even looks on site.