Building Materials and Construction Technology
Snailman: yep, they were indeed supposed to lean outward, I read somewhere in my papers today... indeed, it was here: http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/popup2spalt.aspx?id=4551&contextPage=5947
nihtila: [citat] Hello again! Isover has ready-made rolls with "drev material," although you pay quite a bit for it, it goes as follows: 1. "Regular Insulation material" in about 5cm wide strips 2. Another roll, but this one is plastic-wrapped and should be inserted last (from inside). The idea with the second roll is to seal between the stud and the window, because it is plastic-wrapped, it also keeps it
Snailman: Having difficulty finding the measurements, I know that you can custom order plastic windows in the desired size, but if you want to use standard windows then? Wooden windows are supposed to have different measurements than plastic windows I have seen somewhere?
Grop: I am planning to make my sauna a bit smaller by angling one of the corners at 45 degrees and installing a new sauna door in the sloped section. To do this, I need to tear down part of the existing walls, which are made of concrete. I'm not sure if it's concrete block or not. On my old building plans, it says "Wall System A40/A10" on the basement foundation drawing. Does anyone know what that
Mattias Jönsson: Hi! Completely new to this forum and despite having searched and read and searched and read, I will start off with a bang: I live in a brick house from 1898 with a masonry and ventilated torpargrund made of granite. Most of the house was renovated in the '80s, but two rooms were left untouched. And now it's time... Today, there is completely uninsulated plank flooring on beams laid on bricks,
Mats: I based it on cc 120 and it can hold with properly glued floor chipboard, but I wouldn't recommend it.
Johan 35: We are about to start building a floor and will be taking quotes for materials. Is there a program to calculate the material requirements? We know what materials we need through the construction drawing but not how much of each. Thanks!
DVE: I have considered cedar wood paneling on a couple of the gables of the house. Has anyone bought them? What do they cost approximately per square meter? What type of panel did you buy? Shiplap panel or more straight regular tongue and groove paneling? I have in mind two gables according to the picture approximately. DVE
coss: Now I'm interested. I Googled Solidworks. Is there any good free software to calculate material usage, etc. We are not building new but just adding a little. But it would be fun to calculate it a bit more professionally. //Sture
Kalleman: If I were to build new molds and cast them, I would probably choose to completely replace the old ones. You do have to dig out the old ones, but I think you save time by avoiding the hassle with casting if you keep the old ones inside the new ones. Plus, if you keep the old ones, you probably have to make the new ones larger to accommodate the old ones inside. Both methods probably work, although
Mats: Double drywall and an anchor hold without a problem, but it's better with a type of fiberboard behind, that's just how it is. If you want to make it easy for yourself, use particle board. It's pleasant to work with and fairly strong. Sure, OSB is stronger, but then use an anchor if you're going to hang something heavy.
Haegermeister: I will install a slightly narrower door in the basement because it hits the stairwell, going from 110cm > 100cm My question: Can you build with lecablock 9x19x59 STANDING?! In this case, 3 and a half blocks vertically in the wall (the wall is made of concrete hollow blocks) Does anyone have a better solution?
lastkaj: I think it sounds wrong in my head when talking about nail guns for moldings; brad nailer sounds better. I imagine large 3-inch nails on the moldings. Although I know that what I call a brad nailer is also called a nail gun. http://www.jula.se/Butik/default.asp?OrderId=351964952&url=docs/produkt.asp?pf_id=SE-076000&dept_id=SE-076
Mats: Not going to say it's right but here every rule is nailed
jon_h: Yes, it should be. But I still don't understand why it is built that way, extremely strange.
Snailman: I plan to have 45mm insulation and studs inside the load-bearing studs, so then probably no need for a double sill...
79:an: Check out this link. http://www.stepkit.com/Index.htm
Mikael_L: You have trusses there now, don't you... How are they designed? What timber dimension and what cc measurement, for example.
jon_h: You can always paint with a 2-component paint mixed to the right color. It will definitely hold. I don't know much about paint, so I can't comment on the durability of the other options.
daniellindholm: I absolutely agree with the builder about plywood. You can, if you want, just to sleep extra well, glue wood into the cut as well, but that's overkill if you put plywood on the sides that you both glue and screw.
Mats: Tried under buy and sell here on the forum? Blocket is the next good place to look
Saxpy: [citat] I'm actually going to do the same thing, but I have a question... Do you have air coming up through the eaves and up to the attic today? If not, what function does the air gap serve if it is not ventilated?
JanneSjo: I am looking at Royal Polar and Midmade - also looking at the wider variants around 69cm instead of the narrow 54 cm Does anyone have good / bad experiences with these?
kalle26: Yes, it must be something like that. It would be interesting to see more info about such a construction (infästning)
ante74: *nudges my post a little..* Suggestions?
joflopp: Started to despair when I couldn't find them at either Sjögrens, Beijer, or Swedol. It turned out that Jula has them in their assortment when I checked the new catalog.
ltz: As a comment, I received a quote today for 5x5" beams, 6 meters long in spruce, 52:- per meter + VAT. For 6"x6" they wanted 72 + VAT and delivery would be about 2000:- + VAT in rough terms. Doesn't seem too expensive. The question is more about what these would withstand.
anaitis: All right! Dig away the soil and cast new plinths.