Building Materials and Construction Technology
Aniska: That particular campaign has ended. But on Bygga hus, there are so many offers that someone might have seen a similar one recently. (I wrote more than what was just in the post. Did I dream half of it? I added a bit more now instead, so it became less strange)
cccj@telia.com: As I work on my house, I become convinced that the foundation was laid much earlier than 1903 (tax registration)! It is now time to replace the kitchen floor. Since the house has stood empty and unheated at times, much has been eaten by striped wood-boring larvae. Under the boards and between the sills, there was about 10 cm of coal stubble as insulation, and unbarked boards laid overlapping
magnusss: It is not finished, but this is how it looks so far.
magnusss: Thank you, that's what I'll do. What kind of glue should one use? Regular wood glue for outdoor environments or perhaps standard PL400/600?
Mats: Run CC60. As mentioned, it will be much easier to build that way. To prevent it from bending, you can place a couple of nail plates crosswise between the sill and the hammer beam. This will make it super stable.
oskis 123: One should probably try to avoid organic materials in a basement as much as possible. They collect moisture, and mold and moisture like each other. Regular gypsum boards are a no-go because they are coated with paper, which is organic. Is the basement properly drained so that moisture can travel through the wall? Of course, there is moisture in the ground outside that should not come in, but a
fredand44: Hello! I have purchased the book "Garageboken" but unfortunately, I must say that it does not answer all the questions when planning to build my own garage. I am working on a garage and so far I have poured the slab and built one course with lecablock. I now wonder what the appropriate center-to-center distance is for the screws that nail down the sill in the lecablocks? Thank you very much in
magnusss: Seal with a bun, they will think it's too good to be true.... and instead go to the neighbor.
fredand44: Hello! You really gave me something to think about! Thank you!
estwing: use tracks everywhere then put up the studs. yes you can build your wall with 70 studs in the diagonal. then you need to put between the gypsum panels on the inside of the straight wall then screw a stud against it. a bit difficult to explain like this... hope you understand? best regards carpenter estwing
bruschen: The wall could very well be load-bearing. Considering the construction, I guess the house is from the early 1900s? These houses were mostly built from A-drawings (Architect) and much was resolved on-site. So there are most likely no drawings that can tell you how the house is built, which is why you will have to bring in a structural engineer.
arne: Isn't it easier to drill new holes in the cabinet? If it feels better, you can drill new holes in both the wall and the cabinet. Naturally, place the holes at a safe distance from the existing ones!
_janne_: Thanks for the response JanneL! Yes, the link is correct. I Googled online myself and found this among others. However, I couldn't find anywhere to order from Gunnebo's website, and besides, I want to check out the items first. I had never heard of Flinks before. They are indeed still around but sell only to business owners (which I guess also applies to Gunnebo). However, I found bladdubb at
monika_b: I will take a photo tomorrow and post a picture so it becomes a bit clearer how it looks.
Mikael_L: Yes, OK. I probably misunderstood what you meant by inner edge and outer edge. Both "edges" are the edge of the MDF, facing into the room. But the inner edge is towards the glass and the outer edge is towards the wall ... I get it together now, I guess .... :o
dorisgray: Thanks for the tip with Jula. But if you're thinking of a frame made of iron pipes, I think you can use sturdy Masonite to get a smooth surface. I'm just going to saw through two lightweight concrete blocks, so I'll sacrifice a handsaw. Additionally, in town, I saw a large reinforced plastic bag for construction and such. In the right dimension for a bathtub. I took a phone number: Safesack
chrille112: We have a 20x6 m barn that we need to lift about 10 cm on one side. Do you think the biltema jacks will work for this too?
piculell: Thanks for the quick response, I'll see if I can loosen the frame tomorrow. I might be able to pull it out inward if I remove the windowsill, which doesn’t seem to be a problem. It seems very dry down in the "hole" now, so I thought about using filler, I would never want to seal in moisture. It hasn't rained here in I don't know how many weeks now. But routing a new piece is probably
carlbanan: It will eventually be a garage, and the place that fits well is partly at the same height as the road, and partly about 1 meter lower, with a stone wall dividing it in the middle. How can one build then? The idea is to pour a footing and then build up to the same level. Then you can probably fill in with stone before pouring the floor, but I'm thinking of trying to create some sort of storage
ByggaNytt: Make sure to anchor the boards so they don't tip over.... [bild] As mentioned, there's a lot that needs to be pulled into the bjälklag! http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/vvs/ventilation_bjalklag.jpg
klaskarlsson: When demolishing, you should use a mask (construction dust is not very healthy and nice to inhale, asbestos notwithstanding) - even though asbestos fibers can penetrate a regular one, the risk is smaller, and I find it hard to believe that a single exposure would be fatal. The alarms came after professionals, mechanics, etc., were frequently exposed over longer periods... Moreover, concrete in 99
magnusss: Rm carpentry seems good, you can get the door any way you want. It would cost me between 10-19,000:- depending on design, etc. I can't afford it right now. What do you think about this one? http://www.skbv.se/templates/produkter-3.cfm?level1=K%2DYD&level2=PG%2DYD103&level3=AG%2DYD1031 It's hard for a layman like me to see what the differences are, but I've learned that if it's good, it costs. So
anaitis: There are duct fans that can surely be placed in a suitable location. Contact a ventilation company, they can easily solve this!
Miles: I just installed new 14mm parquet flooring in half of the apartment and had to fix some spots underneath that were sagging. I had an experienced floor installer with me, and for all the repairs he made, he used a lot of glue and screws so there wouldn't be any sagging or creaking in the future. He even put glue between the masonite pieces (to build the correct height) to prevent creaking... "it's
OLJensa: Ahh, that was interesting. But there seem to be a few different interpretations of exactly what it is, some form of pluggning at least.. Thanks for the response, does anyone else have further interpretations?
Larsa: maybe there aren't any studs, like facade... You might need to do it like in a ceiling with plaster on reed, get long screws that go through the foam and attach to the frame. Use plugs if it's a cement-based frame.
pr0no: Hello, I have a problem when I built my Älvsbyhus "HÖNER" I missed adding an extra TV outlet in the small room next to the bathroom layout ---> URL " http://www.alvsbyhus.se/husprogram/index.php?PAGEID=6&HOUSEID=6&HOUSETYPEID=2&SHOWPIC=BLUEPRINT&GALLERYID=56&PRINTBIGIMAGE=91 " I want an outlet where the first G6 is the one in the corner but what is the easiest or best way to do it? I'm
estwing: isn't it the scratching that isn't dangerous?? it's the releasing particles that are DANGEROUS. best regards snickar estwing