Building Materials and Construction Technology
Savett: Okay, I suspected that. I'm quite new to the "construction scene" so I read up on what I need to know and mix it with common sense. Sometimes, however, that's not enough when you get different answers to your questions. That's when it's perfect to have all of you to ask... Thanks for the help!
jon_h: One thread per topic, please. Those who want to reply, reply here: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/isolering/94042-eps-cement.html Locking this.
GustavW: The lambda value of gypsum is 0.25W/m*K and chipboard is 0.15W/m*K, meaning gypsum is 40% more thermally inert. However, it matters less when it's about a few centimeters thick layer.
fn76: Finished veneered MDF gives the best feel as it is real wood. Trying to apply foil afterwards can be difficult to make it look good. Moreover, it will give the impression of being budget speakers.
oskis 123: It is very likely not blåbetong in the actual foundation. Blåbetong is too porous for that. It is probably regular concrete hollow blocks. Which consist of, exactly; concrete with holes. However, there might be blåbetong in load-bearing outer and inner walls. Radon is a gas. It is easy to ventilate out. Therefore, it is absolutely not dangerous to be AROUND the garage. That is, outside. It is
zankan: I don't know how many times this has been up for discussion. But 2 layers of gypsum/side is perfect and if one wants, insulation can be added. However, the gypsum is the most important part and the construction should be airtight.
Fabian-Bom: [citat] As far as I know, an extension should not be built attached to the existing house unless they are on the same foundation and material movement is minimal (usually occurs only during demolition and new construction where part of the building already existed). The different parts should be able to move without damaging each other since settling often occurs in the foundation of the new
injonil: Sure, regular timber can be tricky. I have exactly 5m between the walls. When you're right on the edge like that, your extra centimeters with 5.4m can make quite a big difference. If you buy regular roof trusses, you'll get a knee wall. The distance in the attic between the walls will be significantly shorter than on the ground floor, at least 2m shorter. It IS possible to build a solution where
mycke_nu: Currently building an addition to the kitchen with a 25 m2 dining area using a steel structure. Just like in your case, there will be a lot of windows and also a balcony terrace on top, so steel is a flexible solution. The walls will be made of light concrete around the windows and panels over the steel. Everything will be plastered in the same style as the rest of the house. Have only completed
Mikael_L: You simply wonder what dimension you need for the beam to function as a load-bearing floor beam? (with a span of about 5.5 meters). First and foremost, you need to fix at least cc600, meaning if you have rafters at cc1200, you need to add an extra beam of the same dimension between each rafter. Then, with that span, it might start to require around 45x300 K24 to hold up. NOTE, just a guess.
Lindgrenski: [citat] I bought an 11mm OSB board, it will probably be okay against 10mm chipboard. I'll buy plates for the input/output of cables, then the wall can be open inside, separated by the studs. It'll be both nice and good.
Loner: Hmm, my company then just refers to BBR, anyone know where to find anything about this in the "BBR bundle"? /L
oskis 123: Assume it's wooden frames? If it were, I would try to make a piece corresponding to the hole in wood and glue it with polyurethane glue, I think. Make sure the fibers preferably run in the same direction as the frame. At least in the ends that are visible outward.
öland: we did that too but we hired a betonghåltagare.
5.2 racing: [citat] Bynglig?? Not a very common word. I understand the meaning clearly, but I've never heard the word. :D
El Gringo: The cheapest as I see it should probably be a simple little stove you can put a couple of logs in, but if you're looking at the "future," you might want year-round water, hot and cold, and sewage and heating and everything to all the houses, and then it should probably be culverts at a minimum! But I haven't really decided how I want it yet, I guess I'll have to feel out the situation first....
Mats: There is tape for joining the fabric, so it should suffice. You should really only need a small hole to be able to insert the nozzle on a (un)suitable spray can.
El Gringo: If you want styrofoam, there is an ad on blocket right now... http://www.blocket.se/vi/16770007.htm?ca=16_s
Anonymiserad 23608: As mentioned, prime the wall and glue with plaster adhesive. You can fix the board with nail plugs into the brick, and if you place a regular washer on the nail before you drive it in, it will pull the gypsum board in a little better.
kankonkan: Indeed Fixes a regular acrylic dispersion... like casco 3698...
danger: Hi, wondering if it got resolved?? I'm in the same situation, were you able to carry it out? Grateful for any advice Best regards, Mikael
jakim: [citat] I'm not quite sure what you mean. Should I cut the door (mirror doors) in the wet area to be able to move the top piece down, or do you mean that I should raise the other doors a little extra?
ByggaNytt: Very good tips above! I measure 60 cm, make a mark + cross - where the cross is, the rule should be, etc. :)
Carnivore: One might as well avoid painting over the screw heads that need to be removed now and then.
carax: Considering buying whitewashed pine furniture from KWA. Will be placed outdoors. Costs about 14000 SEK for 6 chairs + table and you want to be sure that it lasts. Is it enough to wash the furniture regularly? How often will painting be necessary? Anyone with experience with this?