Building Materials and Construction Technology
andersmc: Have actually never tried doublehead. But since regular drywall screws work excellently as well, it can't be something that's absolutely necessary.
lagre: Well, it's approaching an unfortunate expense in the form of replacing the sill on a wooden house with a brick façade. I have received two quotes where the price differs significantly. The methods also differ: Option 1: Replace the existing sill with first 50mm EPS s100, then sill paper and a new sill. The outside is covered with some form of rubber mat and then asfaboard. Option 2: Replace the
imported_Robban: Hello A friend has an entrance staircase made of wood, it is about 1 m high. Now they are eager to redo it in stone. The stonemason who redid their pathways, walls, and small steps suggested first laying foam insulation to raise it a bit, then casting, adding some setting sand, and then the stones. Does this solution hold? Will it shift over time? Crack? Other suggestions?
Anonymiserad 23608: Heavy, labor-intensive, expensive, and no beveled edges for joint filling, so no, I would have tried to exchange them at the lumberyard for regular gypsum instead.
fredand44: Thank you so much! Now I get it! Regards, Fredrik
Uffe_xx: Have you checked at http://www.batbryggan.se/start.html they are well-stocked with fittings and other parts for floating docks.
anaitis: [citat] With reservation for my memory (sitting in the countryside and have no ref nearby): 8.8 means strength 64 MPa and 4.6 strength 24 MPa i.e. 8.8 is better. Whether it matters for your practical use??
Bnicke: Here is a simple sketch of the hole that needs to be filled, and the pillar that needs to be removed. How do you go about this?
Mikael_L: [citat] This is how the table from the wood guide looks. The dimensions in table 1, the one with thinner dimensions, assume a construction with screw-glued floor chipboard.
fredand44: Hello! I found the page http://www.svenskttra.org/byggbeskrivningar/ which seems to be able to generate drawings. When looking at a top view drawing, it seems to me like the sides overlap the gables. When looking at the wall drawings, they seem to have dimensions that overlap. This puzzled me until I looked at:
DrömBygge: Now I'm curious! I saw a 3-year-old post about ordering stuff from Slovenia because it's so much cheaper there. Has anyone recently ordered stuff from Slovenia and how it works with payments etc... Reliable...? Any links?
ByggaNytt: If the kortling is above the window, it can probably be removed - no load can/should be placed on top of a window... http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/stomme/vagg.jpg Incidentally, no drilling company is needed to drill in brick/Leca/lightweight concrete, but it is needed for pure concrete! http://www.byggahus.se/forum/382549-post101.html
fredand44: Hello! I'm working on a garage and am in the planning stage. The garage has a width of 5.5 m and a length of 6 m. The height to the ridge will be 4.9 m. The garage will have a smaller upper floor. Along one of the 6-meter walls, I plan to have windows, 6*6. The windows will be located under the floor joists on the upper floor. I assume that I therefore need to support the weight correctly.
Humulus: It seems, as mentioned, relatively okay values. Do you know if they are measured directly next to the wall or if the values are from, for example, the middle of the room?
camnis: Then I would like to thank everyone for the help, I will try to reattach the door frames in the front. II Johan Gustafsson
macaroni: Hello! I am planning a mezzanine with a total span of just over 9 meters. My designer has specified two HEA200 beams distributed over about 3 meters with recessed 45x220 K24 timber. The HEA rests on glulam columns 90x90 LK30. The problem for me is that I don't know what the HEA200 weighs per meter. They are lying on the plot, and you can't just lift them around. I live on a rock, so it's
Artec: I did Proposal 1 when I renovated our current house, it was a bit of work to remove the bad part of the sill as it was quite a long piece, about 10 meters, but it worked and in my opinion, it turned out well.. :) In my case, not as much of the sill was bad as in yours, it was about 7-8 cm up on the sill and 6-7 cm deep inward so in my case the sill still bore weight even though I removed quite
ByggaNytt: Sheet from the plåtis: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/83400-riktning-pa-gipsskivor-i-tak-relativt-glespanel.html
Jona: Hello I have a glulam beam that's supporting a roof and I want to replace it with an IPE beam due to space constraints. The glulam has dimensions Width 70 * Height 220 What size of an IPE beam should I choose if I want to replace it?
Bror: Both options surely work well. But the easiest way is to nail together the sill, studs, and top plate with everything lying on the floor joists, then you nail the studs from the underside of the sill and thus don't need any nail plates. Also mount the wind barrier, nailing battens, and possibly the outer panel before raising the walls. Easier and faster than nailing everything together on site.
torrum: How do you attach an intermediate floor to the outer walls? The span of the intermediate floor is 6.8 m, with a load-bearing wall in the middle. Normally, you cut notches into the vertical studs of the outer walls and fit a horizontal beam into the wall, on which the intermediate floor rests. Are there simpler, alternative ways to attach this horizontal load-bearing beam to the outer walls?
al9nz: Hi!!! After a discussion with an engineer friend, we have decided on an HEB 160. We thought that a long-term deformation of only 1mm was a bit extreme when 12.5mm is allowed. Want to thank everyone, especially imported_Byggaren, for all the help and calculations!!! You are great! Wish everyone a nice summer (without too much construction!! ;-) ) /Alistair
bygga_bo: [citat] Don't know anything specific about what's in the article but I sincerely hope they don't follow the Japanese, but make sure it's possible to clad the composite with tiles and ceramics as we are used to. I've spent quite a bit of time at hotels in Japan and there it's not uncommon to use bare plastic modules to build bathrooms (and we're not talking about cheap hostels, but hotels of good
Karkulla: Hello! We need to renovate an earth cellar. The background is this: There is a farmhand cottage on top of the earth cellar, and it is actually the farmhand cottage that needs renovating, i.e., adding insulation and making it winterproof. The plan is to install heating/water through culverts, insulate against the earth cellar, and pour a concrete slab with underfloor heating. For this reason, we
anra: Ok. The wall/door openings that I want to close off adjoin my bathroom (the shower) but maybe it doesn't matter? Another question, how do you close off a ventilation hole if you can only access it from one side? I live in a lättbetong house!
Ulrik: [citat] Yes, that's how it will be. Each support leg has its own sill so it's not a problem to lift and remove the cement dust before the paper and sill are put back and fixed in place.
vagabondo: My advice is to use 100mm screws - drill through the first beam with a drill slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw and use a very powerful screwdriver (I used a drill :) ) - it holds really well. I placed the screws in "pairs" with a 30 cm distance plus wood glue between the beams.