Building interior wall

[Honeybun]

I am going to start installing interior walls in an unfinished attic. Right now, there is a 22 mm chipboard floor with underfloor heating pipes. It is one large room that will eventually become three bedrooms, a living room, and a bathroom.

Questions:

How do I install the equivalent of the sill (but in the ceiling)? Right now, there are 28x70 battens holding the loose-fill insulation in place. Can I screw the "top plate" to these smaller battens? Will it hold?

For some walls, the "top plate" can be attached to the rafters, but the distance between them is 1200 mm center-to-center. Is this distance too long?

Can the sill be attached directly to the 22 mm floorboard, or do I need to try to hit a joist for the best fastening?

I was thinking of tightening the vertical studs quite firmly against the sill and "top plate."

I was planning to install 45x95 studs everywhere except where I will have doors, where I will install 45x70 (the door frame is 90 mm (70+13+13 = 96 mm). Three of the five doors are on a wall section that is 1100 mm and at a 45-degree angle, making that wall slightly thinner right where the door is.

I hope you understand what I mean. Grateful for answers.

/David

 

[imported_Byggaren]

Post some pictures so it's easier to understand how it looks.
______________
Byggaren

 

[estwing]

I am starting to install interior walls in an unfinished attic. Right now there is a 22 mm chipboard floor with underfloor heating loops. It's currently one large room that will eventually become three bedrooms, a family room, and a bathroom.

Questions:

How do I install the equivalent of the sill (but on the ceiling)? Right now there are 28x70 battens holding the loose fill insulation in place. Can you screw the "head plate" into these smaller battens? Will it hold?

For some walls, the "head plate" will be able to attach to the roof trusses, but the distance between these is 1200 mm on center. Is this too long a distance?

Can you attach the sill directly to the 22 mm floorboard, or do I have to aim for a joist to get the best anchorage?

I was planning to tighten the vertical studs quite hard against the sill and "head plate."

I was thinking of installing 45x95 studs everywhere except where I will have doors; there I will install 45x70 (the door frame is 90 mm (70+13+13= 96 mm). 3 out of 5 doors are on a wall piece that is 1100 mm and at a 45-degree angle, which means that section of wall will be a bit thinner right where the door is.

I hope you understand what I mean. Grateful for answers.

/David

hello... yep, you screw the metal track into your secondary battens (28x70), that works perfectly, where you need to nail onto the trusses, just add another secondary batten and nail into it. In the floor, you can just take mounting screws 13mm or nail where it goes into the floor joists.
but first and foremost, you ALWAYS gypsum the ceiling first, then the outer walls, then the partition walls.
and now don't FORGET to place bendable metal strips in all inner corners and all ceiling angles...
most important of all!!!

then your explanation of your studs in your angled doorpost, unfortunately, I do not understand what you mean... need to ponder a bit more, will get back, unless you can put out some kind of sketch...
keep at it gypsum cat *giggle*
best regards
carpenter estwing

 

[Honeybun]

Now I have made a sketch of what the upper floor should look like. Everything is tricky, but what I mean by angles are the walls circled in green. It doesn't show much that I have changed the size of the wall studs. The reason I have chosen slightly thicker studs is partly soundproofing, but it should also be possible to hang larger and heavier items on the walls.

It may never have been clear, but I was planning to use wooden studs. Can you still use a metal track, or is it possible to screw a 45x95/45x70 stud into the batten panel? I was planning to screw everything that should be on the ceiling and floor as far as possible. I have read that you should have a screw twice the length of what you are fastening, and in my case, that would be a screw at least 90 mm long. This doesn't work so well if I can fasten the stud in the batten panel. Then the screw sticks up a bit since the batten panel is 28 mm thick. Any tips on how I can handle this?

Is it the vertical studs that "provide" the strength in the wall, and the "header" is just there to attach the vertical studs?

There is some variation in the rafters, which means I have to lower the ceiling somewhat to achieve a straight and even ceiling. The ceiling today has an area of 75 sqm, so I was thinking of dividing the ceiling into different sections with the partition walls and then doing the ceiling in each room separately. It doesn't show much if the ceiling is ±5 mm on each side of the interior wall.

 

[estwing]

use tracks everywhere then put up the studs.
yes you can build your wall with 70 studs in the diagonal.
then you need to put between the gypsum panels on the inside of the straight wall then screw a stud against it.
a bit difficult to explain like this... hope you understand?

best regards
carpenter estwing