Building Materials and Construction Technology
Gonate: Should have used 45x120 impregnated or something else coarse on the bridge, that is, outdoors in heavy conditions with rain / snow / constant water splashes.
magnusss: I have a house built in 1922 with a lockläktpanel. I'm now going to build a fence and wonder if I can use the same dimension as on the façade. The original boards are 190mm wide with a läkt of 45. I'm considering using 145 on the fence. What do you think about that?
Fabian-Bom: Might seem a little weak. Maxit for example recommends 25cm blocks at 2m height and 35% of the total height below ground. Your retaining supports might compensate for this to some extent. A wider footing than the wall is a good rule.
Ullai: It has been a while since you wrote, but can someone still sort this out? I need to lower a ceiling to be able to soundproof, have chosen 2'3 studs and on them should first be drywall and then ceiling boards like chipboard. How far should I have between the studs, cc30 or is cc60 enough? The room is about 2.2 m wide and the studs are attached to the long walls and possibly to a construction strap
schytzer: Thank you! Yes, exactly! It almost looks like my staircase. However, the difference is that my staircase won't be completely enclosed like in the example. I just want to cover the openings between the steps and keep the space under the staircase open, so it's extra important that it looks nice since the underside of the staircase will be visible. It would be of great value to get tips on how to
anaitis: [citat] Then you get exactly the same problem as with a crawlspace on footings.
Kalle77: ok, but the lecablocken should of course be reinforced. the question was about the plaster mesh
Poggan: Thanks for the quick response! Yes, it should be... I didn't think of that! Thank you once again.
ppalm: Yes, you could probably polish on the plaster directly. Husfixet might work, it has a bit more of a putty consistency.
Mikael_L: [citat] Or the asfaboard that TS mentions in the first post ...;) That works too. The wind barrier/asfaboard/exterior gypsum/weather barrier should be installed to be ... exactly, airtight. No gaps where the wind can blow in. Regarding plastic, install plastic if you have it in the existing walls. Be as meticulous as possible in connecting it to the existing plastic and be careful to make the
ppalm: Hi I know there are screws for MDF so you don't have to pre-drill. Does anyone know which brands market these and possibly article numbers? Best regards, PPalm:cool:
Pasta: We shopped at Castorama 2 years ago and had everything transported home to Dalarna. For 8 pallets, approximately 8.5 tons, the shipping cost was 9500 SEK. Castorama arranged the shipping. /Patrik
Fredrik.engdahl: Hornbach and Bauhaus have white in plastic in various models, I recall the one I bought at Hornbach 20x20 cost around 40 :- and this was in Malmö
mångstekta: no, if you mean completely clear... it can get a bit dirty but you can easily rinse it off with a pressure washer or hose and brush... and you should be careful not to damage the woodwork during installation, then it also depends a bit on how finished it is... there's an eave that needs painting as well and bargeboards, but as long as you're careful! Go for it! :)
cccj@telia.com: Check .http://www.atab-trappan.se! There are at least two solutions that might suit you. I'm in discussions with them about exactly the kind of staircase you're looking for. Clint
Fabian-Bom: [citat] Yes, of course. But not if you're going to wait a long time to furnish the upper floor, then you'll have to pay extra for heating the upstairs too. Anyway, I think you should skip the plastic...
andersmc: [citat] Well, they don't save at all. Just ask and you will get receipts on regular paper!
anaitis: Caulked boat decks withstand subzero temperatures!
ByggaNytt: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/fasad/17265-baesta-metoden-foer-skarv-av-panel.html http://www.byggahus.se/forum/fasad/66757-baesta-saettet-att-skarva.html http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/91934-fasadstaellning-tokdyrt.html
hasse k: Hello! It would be really good if someone with construction experience could take a look at my self-drawn pencil sketches. I'm planning to use an unused space for an accumulator tank. There are many questions, so I'll try to concentrate the inquiries a bit. The two large beams (about 200 by 200) are old beams running from an adjacent room. It would probably be safest to support them with a beam
BennyOlsson: Yes, I almost assumed that when I read the document. Thanks for the clarification! /Benny
andersmc: Drywall screws and particle board screws are not at all basically the same. They are exact opposites of each other. But you don't need to rent a screw gun for every type of screw you plan to use (in fact, you don't need to rent a screw gun at all) since you can easily change screws as needed. If you just had a handful of each type of screw and wanted to save the SEK 75 a pack of screws costs,
yllom: Hello hello, No, the plaster should be screwed into the OSB board + the tongue and groove board behind, the tretex should be removed. Kind of like you mentioned, my thought is that we won't be able to put plastic everywhere and get it really tight, which is why it doesn't feel right considering that I'm concentrating the air in a couple of places instead. I've been thinking about installing a
Milkshaken: The facade boards, also known as "Västkustskivor," are available in many different dimensions... used primarily like jon_h as plaster carrier boards, but can also be used as dilation joints...
Milkshaken: Yes, this is a bit of a technique... The mortar should be for regular brick plastering,,, Plastic consistency. (Take a bit of mortar from the mixer, form it into a ball, place the "ball" in your palm, shake gently, the mortar should then kind of sink a little without cracking or running... For leca, you should water thoroughly beforehand,,, (This also applies to old, old brick) Plastic
Saxpy: When I bought a house as old as the one you're looking at, the buyer had all the tiled stoves, wood stoves, and chimney flues inspected and pressure tested. I have no idea what it cost, but when I had reset three tiled stoves and sealed three flues, the chimney sweep came out and pressure tested everything for 1850 SEK. 3500 SEK sounds expensive to me.
robban_78: It is not 10mm OSB they installed, but instead it is 10mm chipboard. Should one just accept the difference? I think one should be able to get more back considering they are breaking an agreed contract.