Building Materials and Construction Technology
kvistarn2: considering if it's possible to cut away the ceiling on perhaps half of the upper floor to get more ceiling height and air, it's a timber house from the 1930s, thought about making an air gap of maybe 20mm around the rafters and then insulate with e.g. 145mm between the rafters... pros and cons of this? crazy?
Artec: Party! Thanks for the responses everyone, that sounds good! Hopefully, the property purchase will go through tomorrow and after that, I will have plenty to do with both masonry and all sorts of renovations in the coming years.. =) It's going to be really damn fun!
magnusss: Here come the pictures... The last two pictures are from the bedroom on the upper floor.
bimbosorken: Don't want one of those because they take up so much space, etc... Already have one, but it stays at the old man's place. So, need to hunt down a beam that is 8m long.
79:an: I'm going to build a new wall in an old barn building. There used to be an old brick wall there that has collapsed, so now I will put up a new one, but it will be made of wood. The studs need to be attached to massive foundation stones about 1.5-2 x 0.75 x 0.75m, which are quite uneven on the top. So the question is how to best proceed. Should one "just" drill in model post shoes or should one
ofelia75: Hello! I have an old house with a basement built with a stone foundation. Now we are going to build an extension and will use lightweight concrete blocks for the new foundation (actually a very thick slab on grade). I would like the walls to look the same and am now looking for ideas on how I can "tile" the concrete wall with natural stone. I thought it would be quite easy to find split
Bror: Also on http://www.besta.se/. I built the basement floor with http://www.dorocell.se/eway/default.aspx?pid=273&trg=Content_6043&MainPage_5980=6043:0:&Content_6043=6048:17112::0:6111:1:::0:0 and the upper floor with Bestablock, and I am satisfied with the choice. I did almost the entire job myself, had carpentry help for about three weeks + help with electrical and plumbing. Excavation for the
bruschen: I think I understand how it's done. You shouldn't have problems with deformation with these dimensions, but you should never say never. I assume the 150*50 beams are under the 195s? In that case, if you can access your 150 beams, you can use a jack to lift the middle of each 150 beam and then double it with another one of the same length. If you use screw adhesive with fairly thin screws with a
christinawa: A thousand thanks, Zno, for both the picture and the answer! Yours turned out to look really nice! It will probably have to be spliced then. Good that you don't think about it that much!
estwing: hello. but you don't use metal tracks if it is load-bearing walls! regards snickar estwing
smidifix: Hello everyone!! Cold!! is my first thought when I hear tiling!!! Then it builds almost 1cm without glue, 30*60 tiles tend to be thick and as you say, they tend to be either slightly concave or convex, so without adhesive there's a risk that it might crack:-(
mino: We have a balcony/terrace about 4x8 m2 on the first floor which, due to the slope in the garden and a large part of the basement being above ground, is situated 3-4 meters up. We would like to have some form of stairs leading down to the garden on that side, but since the house is from the 1920s, we want wooden stairs. Does anyone know if there are prefabricated outdoor stairs that can be
Rådmansö: Hello! I'm new to the forum. I have a question about chimneys: Is there a risk of the chimney being damaged when you replace parts of the sill?
ltz: Whitish and very sandy sounds like lime plaster? It should probably be a plaster that allows a lot of "movement," perhaps C-plaster or even "looser," (d, e-plaster/mortar?). This given that you can now use cement-based lime plaster to patch up. One thing is for sure, you probably shouldn't use adhesive to fill the holes, as you said, very expensive. :) I would probably repair it with something
jon_h: Okay. Well, it's not really the place in this thread to sort out what you have against log houses, snakes, flying, or whatever it might be. Everyone has their things they don't like.. :)
Mats: My suggestion is that you build up to about 1.5 cm from the wooden facade and then add trim to the facade similar to a window. The alternative is to add trim to the wall, and then you can leave the gap a little larger.
fridhem: It seems after a bit of research online that wind barrier still holds up well in the competition, no point in spending money on something that gives the same result.
snickarboden: There are particle boards that have a denser surface layer, however, you should do something with the visible edges as well. /Kent
mattiasp: Coupled for 500 spänn/each at Byggmax Insulating glass 695 spänn/each at skbv.se on campaign Insulating glass pre-painted for 995/each at skbv.se on campaign
Per-Erik: Possibly you should get a response in the Civil Engineering forum. It really depends on what type of framework you need to support that weight. I'll leave the thread here for a few more days and then I'll move it to the Civil Engineering section. If that's okay. :)
imported_Byggaren: [citat] Since I don't know what type of paint material is used on the stones, the question is not possible to answer. But if you can remove a paint chip from the rest of the surface and show it to your paint dealer, maybe they can give you the answer. ______________ Byggaren
Anonymiserad 23608: Attach the corner protector to get a straight and smooth edge to plaster against. It becomes much easier and more durable than plastering freehand.
rayhed73: Hello! I have started a deck that has constantly grown. From being just a deck with sliding glass to becoming a winter garden. The plan is to have underfloor heating connected to my heat pump, etc. So my question is: what sizing should I use for the wall studs? Is 45x120 enough or do I need to use a 145 in the walls? All answers are considered. Best regards, Ray
apotekarnes: I can only agree with larsfarm. I despise gypsum in walls and would rather use spån, despite cracks in the wallpaper. The very best (and unfortunately also the most expensive) wall covering in my opinion is råspont+masonite. It lasts for a hundred years, doesn't rattle, and you can hang whatever heavy stuff you want on it without it falling down.
erikssonjorgen: Considering something before I skim the windows... The sill has plastic foil lying above and underneath the first row of bricks (the bricks are now gone). Will the foam adhere to the plastic? Will it really be good or should I remove the plastic? You can compare it to the diff.plast at windows. There, you fold out the plast into the window opening. Is it good when you skim? Jörgen
imported_Byggaren: If a house has concrete floor slabs, it is concrete that is cast on site, approximately 16-20 cm thick slab. The underside is then perfectly smooth (or almost, there may be imprints from the form on which the concrete was cast). If it's lightweight concrete, it consists of pre-fabricated slabs, 25-60 cm wide, 17-25 cm thick. This can be seen on the underside by the beveled longitudinal joints