Hep hep, now it's time to build a bathroom eventually. I've read a little about drywall or no drywall, wood or no wood but now I'm unsure of what we have concluded.

The bathroom is in the basement, with two exterior walls and two interior walls. The shower corner will be half against an exterior wall and half against an interior wall.

We have dug up and replaced old iron pipes and dug out about 30 cm for insulation (gravel + insulation boards (brown, round, Styrofoam-like things that come in blocks whose name totally escaped me) and will pour concrete over this with water-based underfloor heating.

Now, what should I consider? What can be insulated and what cannot be? What can be sealed and what cannot? Where should I build interior walls—and if so, in what material? Why metal studs instead of wood? (I've received different advice that it's because they don't move, don't swell, and simply because it's easier).

If I have underfloor heating, should the drywall not go down to the floor (as I read in another thread)?

I have my father behind me but haven't discussed with him how he plans to solve it all, I'd rather have advice from those who don't... do as it's always been done, despite new materials having come out on the market... ;)
 
Kesella said:
Where should I build interior walls - and if so, in what material?
Hopefully, your father will build up the walls in your basement wet room. There is a reason why the basement walls in your house are built and plastered, right? I would stick to the same building method to avoid moisture damage in the future.
Stud walls are suitable for a wooden house where everything else above ground is also made of wood+plasterboard. It's just my opinion .....
gaia
 
Hmm... Why should he build new walls in front of the exterior walls? My walls consist of some kind of cast concrete I think, it doesn't look plastered anyway. But the reason for framing should be to avoid moisture damage - since you can't put a waterproof layer on an exterior wall - or are you suggesting I shouldn't have a bathroom in the basement?

I also have to point out that everything above ground in the house is wood and gypsum. So do you think it's okay to continue with that?
 
Yesss.....but doesn't it change anything that I should have underfloor heating? It feels risky not to have a moisture barrier...what do the insurance companies say? When one showers, a heck of a lot of water hits the wall....where is it supposed to go? Into the concrete wall? Evaporate? Shouldn't one have a moisture barrier on the floor at all then? That seems really odd... 8(
 
Excerpt from: http://www.byfy.lth.se/Publikationer/Other/TVBH-7226.pdf

According to BBR, floors and walls exposed to water splashing, spills, or leaking water should be equipped with waterproof surfaces (VT) if adjacent building parts and spaces cannot withstand such moisture exposure. According to the current Industry Regulations, all floor and wall surfaces in a wet room that meet the above criteria must be equipped with waterproof layers. Normally, floor and wall surfaces in basement areas or equivalent spaces, where the substrates have direct ground contact, should not be equipped with waterproof layers.
 
Kesella said:
In normal circumstances, floor and wall surfaces in basement spaces or equivalent, where the subfloors have direct contact with the ground, should not be provided with waterproof layers.
You read that sentence too, right?

But usually, there is a waterproof layer exactly in the shower corner and around the floor drain. Unless there is a lot of penetrating moisture, in that case, it's skipped.
 
I did it. I don't think I have much rising moisture at all. When I put in a dehumidifier on maximum dehumidification, I get a few tablespoons in a day... But it states "in direct contact with the ground," and if I have gravel covering the entire floor, those insulation blocks that don't absorb moisture, and 10 cm of concrete on top of that - does it really count as direct contact with the ground? The moisture barrier ends up 25-30 cm above the ground. Plus, I have underfloor heating that dries it out continuously.

I'm considering whether I should waterproof the floor and all interior walls, as well as the outer wall in the shower corner. What happens at the joint between the waterproofed and non-waterproofed areas on the outer wall? Will the waterproofing detach if moisture gets behind it? This is really a jungle. In another thread, interior walls are being discussed... :(
 
It sounds like a pretty sensible plan to do as you have thought. And it is not overly critical what happens at the junction between the floor and the wall. There are no definite answers to this, but you have to try to use common sense. I think you should waterproof all floors, partition walls, and walls in the shower corner, just as you planned.
 
Kesella said:
Hmm... My walls consist of some kind of poured concrete I think, it doesn't look plastered anyway. But the reason for using strapping is to avoid moisture damage - since you can't apply a moisture barrier on an outer wall - or are you suggesting that I shouldn't have a bathroom in the basement?
I misinterpreted... I understood that completely new strapped walls were to be built, which I thought would be wiser to build from stone.

If you want to avoid moisture damage in a basement, you put drywall on a metal stud frame and there should be ventilated baseboards/ceiling moldings that allow moisture that comes through the outer walls and concrete floor to escape. I don't think ventilated moldings are a suitable solution for a bathroom.
It's important to know how to do it but even more important to know "why".
Now I'm only talking about very small amounts of moisture that aren't visible but exist — like a shot glass/month/room that can get trapped in the space of a double wall when it's moisture-proofed from the inside. It can only get more humid over time. Or is your basement 100% moisture-proof externally?
As jonh says - use common sense ;)
 
Same conditions as you, old house with concrete blocks in the foundation and plastered interior walls. Digging out the floor, insulating 200mm under the floor with Isodrän and then installing underfloor heating and tiles. I have relatively damp ground and will not have waterproofing anywhere except in the shower corner. It will consist of an embedded ("recessed") shower tray to stand on and two ventilated shower walls on steel studs (there are construction drawings on Platon's website) against the exterior wall. Of course, along with nice glass doors to minimize splashes outside the intended space. A dehumidifier will then take care of the steam from frequent showering and drying water that splashes outside.

A waterproofing layer wouldn't last many years on my basement walls or floors due to the rising ground moisture (old plastic paint and wallpaper haven't been a problem to remove in my basement...). Proper drainage and insulation around the house and under other parts of the basement have made it significantly better, but my dehumidifier still takes care of a couple of liters of moisture a week.

In the old bathroom (something from the 60s), I experienced the consequences of showering in a space without a moisture barrier :rolleyes: That moisture, after a few months, had created a substantial layer of mold under the old plastic paint in the adjacent hobby room.
 
Why not have a shower cabin. Plaster on walls. Diamond polished concrete on the floor. Good mechanical ventilation.

Bomb-proof! Unbeatable moisture protection!

Then you can fix the details with nice towels and relaxation furniture...
 
The owl...maybe because I study design? Puts and duschkabin are not in my vocabulary...;)
 
Kesella... hihi I know... Shower cabins aren't so design-friendly in Sweden... But can't you design one that is right then!

I hope it will be different when insurance companies in Sweden get tired and do like in the rest of Europe, making people pay for their own water damages in bathrooms? Then I think more Swedes will start "valuing" shower cabins again ;)

Personally, I am a physicist and design blind... so for me, building physics come first...

But why do these two always have to clash?
 
Give me ten years and I'll try to get a design-right and good-looking shower cabin... (3 months for the design and 9 years and 9 months to get it to market) ;)
 
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