Building Materials and Construction Technology
Milkshaken: Or the simplest....MEASURE with a folding rule 3,4,5.... That is, one side 3x e.g. 30cm= 90cm, the other side 4x 30 cm=120cm, and then the distance between the points should thus be 5x 30 cm = 150cm...
Milkshaken: Well, a good way is to build with lecasten... then finish and smooth it nicely with a trowel... Otherwise, you can attach wooden studs on either side of the opening, insulate with suitable thickness... (the sound) and then put some board over it. There are several ways to go about it...
anra: eluffe: thanks... it ended up being maxit Väggspackel 0-100 and it worked perfectly for what I needed to do!!
MathiasS: Biltema's epoxy seems to have worked excellently. Now it's time to fill the surface cracks and then paint the post....
Styx: [citat] Somewhere between 10-20,000/sqm with materials is an estimate off the top of my head..!
Tornhill 2: We tore down and rebuilt the chimney in 2006. We knew that several beams had bearings in the chimney, but we were still a bit surprised when we realized that two beams for the intermediate floor had bare wood (or then charred wood) against the chimney flues, i.e., no bricks in between. So they did not have bearings in the chimney, they went straight through. In other words, perhaps hundred-degree
Steksmar: Check out this, maybe not the most economical, but it's convenient. www.bigbag.nu
hajof70: Even though it is not the insulation that sets the limitation.... Below is a _simplified_ but hopefully clarifying image of the issue. Sure, I will chisel down parts of the sole/heel but I don't dare to take everything necessary for me to lower the floor as far as I would need. [bild]
JanneL: It's sufficient. It's important that one side of the board is straight since you can't use the side guide when you need to rout. You must guide the router with a straight board. The optimal scenario is if two parallel opposing sides of the baseplate are straight. For this, you need a groove router bit, e.g., 30-7697 also from Clas Ohlson. It is 12 mm, but I suspect that the MDF board is 13 mm.
monika_b: The garage is attached to the house. I have decided to leave the boards as they are, use a textured roller with putty to get a "plastered look" overall, and then paint it white, just like the house. Thanks for the tips! This way, I might even get a little vacation on my vacation! ;)
Johan Gunverth: [citat] If I remember correctly, this is where I got my facade boards (via the house manufacturer Hällingsjö Hus). It is true that everything is top quality and closely grown. Only a single board had to be discarded. It had split along the length.
Mats: Of course, depending on the dimension, but there is a standard range of u-profiles at places like tibnor.
kia2: At some point, I acquired a cable duct of the brand VoltoMat Mini 10x20 (a so-called U-channel with a lid). But now that I've finally decided to use the cable duct, I can't find a retailer for suitable joint pieces. Clas Ohlson has the size 16x10 mm, and Wirströms and Fredells have the brand kabelfix in the size 10.5 x 21.5. Where can I find joint pieces for a cable duct of size 20x10 mm?
79:an: Otherwise, you saw/cut out through half the logs above the door and window and insert a horizontal beam that switches off the window/door opening before cutting off the logs, do so from both sides but take one at a time. Check this page under frame and timber for some info. http://web.njv.slu.se/buh/
Nimajneb: We are going to build a larger deck in front of the house. Part of the deck will cover the poured concrete steps that lead up to the front door. I need to chisel down the top landing (approximately 150x150cm) by about 10cm, meaning the top of the support beams should align with the top of the new landing. Questions: 1. To achieve a reasonably smooth surface when chiseling, could it work to cut
holmertz: Working on similar problem-solving. Byggmax drainage items are significantly cheaper than others. I found rubber seals at Bauhaus that fit this combination.
Milkshaken: I would probably make sure to get a BURTON too... A scaffolding pipe that belongs to another scaffolding system... I would use it as a brace backward, down into the ground, yes with a plate in the ground of course...
snickar_lasse: Hey! Here we're talking about förkroppning. Can't explain it.
mandus: Saw that Beijer posted a price list for kärnfuru, from Setra Group I assume: http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_ProduktListing.aspx?id=42641
bhshpk: Arvidsson's sawmill in Benareby, (just outside Mönlycke), sells timber that he buys from Skellefteå. Highly recommended! His contact details are: Tel: 031-98 90 42, Address: Lyckorna Benareby 435 39 MÖLNLYCKE. For example, I recently bought window moldings there. Around 7-15 annual rings on a 22 mm plank from Arvidsson, while there are 3-12 annual rings on a plank from Södra Skogsägarna or
meriks: I'm a bit bad at updating my threads, actually found alu-vinkel at Järnia which I've used, it worked well. Thanks for the tip anyway.
Bjarredsbon: Hello, We have an outdoor jacuzzi model recessed within an area of 2.7m x 2.7m. It is adjacent to our terrace. Now we want to be able to "double-utilize" the pool. As a pool when you want to swim - as a terrace otherwise. There are a few options on how to solve this - feel free to offer tips. Currently, the main approach is: 1) Loose beams that span across the pool with a center-to-center
Öhman ST: Shouldn't one just use fiberglass tape and regular lightweight hand putty? If it's a smaller crack, maybe one could use plastic padding's superspackel, as it's somewhat elastic and doesn't crack so easily.
andersmc: Shower room silicone should work well, i.e., some type that is mold-resistant.
Mats: it doesn't count. 3 mm it can tilt over a meter if I remember the regulations right, so it's fine
theflyingfinn: Hello I am going to build walls with leca blocks around a sauna and shower. Two of the walls are load-bearing. One window and two doors. How should I cast beams for these? Is there any difference for a load-bearing interior wall? I was thinking of making a beam 20cm high, 10cm wide, and 150cm long if the door opening is 90cm. Reinforcing with 2 pieces of 8mm iron at the bottom. Is this
Milkshaken: When we went to check out our house, the guy was an 18-year-old entrepreneur who had gotten his girlfriend pregnant, she lived in another location and wanted to live nearby... so the guy had to sell his house. The initial asking price was 625,000:- We haggled on the spot down to 550,000:- But... we said, we want to inspect it first before we sign anything... Said and done, the seller, the