Building Materials and Construction Technology
addee: [citat] Damn, I just hauled home 20 bags of C mortar from Bauhaus. Hadn't checked before I went there to pick up the last pallets of Leca, so I had to ask. He looked it up in a binder and then said C mortar. I'm going to replace the blåbetong walls in the house, and redo with leca and then plaster on it. Do I need to switch to B mortar?
Lindgrenski: The spiral staircase, however, is not interesting, but the 89cm wide L-staircase. However, I'm leaning towards making my own staircase.
Bob_the_builder: Well, Jon is right that it's "just" a matter of changing the letter. As usual in these contexts, it takes about a generation of building material dealers before new designations catch on. When was the inch abandoned as a unit of measurement for nails and timber...? :-) C24=K24=T2 C18=K18=T1 C14=K12=T0 T indicates that the timber is sorted manually and thus not machine-tested. For glued laminated
Micke Sigsarve: You might be able to keep your board and use the glue principle. Take the thinnest possible råspont (or maybe better yet real panelvirke so that you get a nice surface) Take your circular saw and cut grooves in the back of the panel along the planks. Since it won't be as solid wood, the tendency in the wood should be reduced, and you should get fewer movements. /Micke
Milkshaken: :) times when mixing mortar in the wheelbarrow, rarely had problems keeping the 1:3 ratio... without getting the right mix... simply shovel around the shovel... Keep in mind 2 basic things when mixing mortar... 1. Mix for at least 5 minutes after you have added everything. 2. Plastic consistency for 90% of all mortar... Plastic consistency = pick up a piece of mortar, shape it like a ball. Hold
Milkshaken: estving: Not from us... we mostly use it outdoors, for sure, but no talk of cancer... Do you have any evidence that PL 400 is carcinogenic??? Already in the '80s, there was PL400, a real superglue, although a bit sticky and thick in consistency, it was banned in the early '90s but came back in a new composition, just as good but with fewer carcinogenic substances... Have they now found more junk
Gladh: Hello. My parents' carport needs a new facade, and since a lot of leaves gather in the fall and winter against the carport, they need to raise it with leca blocks so that the wood paneling doesn't go so low. They currently have asphalt in the carport, and I'm wondering if you can place LECA on asphalt and how to attach it if so, or if you need to remove the asphalt and dig/place stones/and then
Gimner: Where can you buy cubes and rods in solid plexi or acrylic plastic? Is there a website where you can buy them?
LasseR: [citat] That's what I meant by not anchoring all the beams, I think it will be a good solution. Thanks for all the answers, now it's just a matter of going out on a hunt for some cheap lumber. It will take quite a bit, to say the least... Lasse
Mats: Of course, it can be built :) Mine has a height of 2-2.50 somewhere and is built in parts as well. The easiest way to move it is to use the old trick of the Romans. I lay out 2X2 as rails and then slide the frame on top of these with the help of a lever or some friends.
gadu^: Thanks a lot! They were even located in Gråbo which is even closer!
Grop: I was thinking of renovating the staircase indoors. Being frugal, I don't want to buy a ready-made stair renovation kit, but instead, make the renovation steps myself. Besides, I see it as therapeutic work to plane + biscuit and mill... But now the sawmill I've previously bought rough-sawn oak from didn't have any good timber in stock (the available wood was too knotty). Does anyone have tips on
-MH-: That link that mathiasp provided doesn't seem to exist anymore. Found a working one: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,1016651,00.html
Solstice: I just have to say that I have made gysinge's grilles, I work in a small iron foundry and we made a h*ll of a lot of those a year ago. I think they are nice, and they work just fine.
valjn: Cottage foundation inside the house. I think I'll cast an extra support wall about 100mm at the outer walls and place post shoes directly in the concrete. Add in rebar and anchor with regular plugs and screws against the outer wall. (plugs in the wall and screws only halfway in the screw so the concrete grips).
Paddy: [citat] No, we have geothermal heating now, so it's just standing there taking up space.
jakim: The simplest perhaps, but the question was what I can do with those that already exist, that were delivered with the house. The money is gone, so every unnecessary expense is... exactly, unnecessary.
Krillle: This was purchased in Gbg, cost: 5900 kr/m. It is made of stainless acid-resistant steel. But there was also one in galvanized for 1650 kr/m, so it's possible to get away cheaper =). We looked around for quite a while before we found this, and it's difficult to find affordable prices on steel railings. Believe me =)
oskis 123: [citat] I must apologize here... Yes, the walls need to breathe! Gypsum plaster is NOT suitable for the exterior walls from a moisture perspective! Knock off the lime sections and make sure it's even. Where the holes are TOO deep, you can use mortar B to fill them in. Don't forget a respirator! Use C-plaster and wear safety goggles when plastering. It's not so good to get in your eyes... It
Milkshaken: estwing: Now, you are used to this.... but for those who are less experienced, it can be a good idea to anchor the frame before they screw it in. Regarding thresholds, there are both types of thresholds, some you screw in from the side at the bottom of the frame, others you place afterward and should be screwed down into the floor because it bangs so damn much when you walk over them otherwise...
Milkshaken: One thing only... If it is a power cable, a conduit or tube must be placed where the cable goes. Usually 16 mm PVC.
Pysslarn: Perhaps casting is not the best solution. Especially if you want a bit of a medieval style. I would ask a ceramist if there is a suitable clay you can work with and possibly fire it at their place for a certain fee. Pottery courses are also offered at good prices at, for example, Medborgarskolan among others, which could be a possible way towards your goal. Good luck! /Ronnie
jakim: No, I don't think it's a problem if the concrete starts to cure even if saltwater reaches the outside of the casting. Edit: But I still think it would be best to wait until low tide next spring and then do the casting.
Milkshaken: Molly is all well and good, but I think back to the time when rawlnut existed.... rubber expanders for all types of materials, even in wet rooms... they were superb... wonder where they disappeared to...:O
saturnus: [citat] Thank you injonil, I hear you have good taste;) "Freshly cleaned" [bild]
andersmc: Have actually never tried doublehead. But since regular drywall screws work excellently as well, it can't be something that's absolutely necessary.