Isn't that the rail that one should have for the best sound insulation?
 
Syllisolering has several functions

stop moisture
stop drafts/fill gaps
 
Exactly, soundproofing. I thought it was strange to have a moisture barrier on metal.
 
Thanks for all the answers, I now have another question :)

I have cleared away the entire old wall but am a bit unsure about how to attach the wall studs for the new wall.

Where I am planning to place the new wall, there are no studs (in the diagonal wall) where I can attach the new interior wall studs. Is it enough to attach them to the ceiling and floor joist, or should I also install new studs in the nearby wall so that I can attach the two side studs to them?

Currently, there is gypsum where I need to attach the wall studs.
 
hello again, does anyone have any tips on how to proceed with the problem above, i.e., if you need to attach the side rails to the adjacent wall or if it's enough to attach them to the ceiling rail and bottom rail?

Thanks in advance! (sorry for "bumping the thread")
 
you attach them to the wall.. Also here with rubber sheet or sealant for sound purposes..
4/5 screws for 3 meters are sufficient
 
so I need to insert a new beam in the wall that I will attach the new wall to?
 
Mikael_L
I would fasten the stud against the adjacent wall in the floor, ceiling, and then with 2-3 regular drywall anchors in the drywall on the existing wall.
A bit fiddly, yes...
But drill, for example, 3 holes, at (approx.) heights of 60, 120, 180 cm from the floor, in the stud.
Place it in the correct position, mark the spot for the drywall anchors through the holes.
Remove the stud, install the anchors, and then finally mount the stud permanently.

Something that seals between the stud and the wall then reduces the sound transmission between rooms. Either something like a soft strip between the stud and the existing wall, or applying an acrylic sealant in the angle afterwards (or both).
 
it's enough to smear glue behind and put a couple of gypsum screws..We're not building a bomb shelter here
 
Mikael_L
zankan said:
it's enough to smear glue behind and attach a couple of plaster screws.. We're not building a shelter here
How does that work then?
Screwing plasterboard onto a stud with plaster screws works just fine, but attaching a stud to plasterboard with plaster screws can't be quite as brilliant... :confused:

A simpler version of what I suggested is to just put on a couple of solid strings of acrylic sealant or PL400 or something similar on the stud, then press it against the wall and screw only at the top and bottom on the sill/bonding beam. No plaster anchors.
It might be difficult to dismantle the wall in the future without damaging the plasterboard on the old wall, but if the wall isn't temporary, it probably doesn't matter much.
 
The glue holds the rule in place permanently. If you take a type of wood screw and slowly drive it slightly angled into the drywall without tightening it too much, it holds sufficiently. The screws hold it in place until the glue cures. As for acrylic sealant, it's not the best option for gluing because it tends to come loose after a while.
 
After how long would latex caulk/acrylic caulk release? My experience is that the longer it stays, the harder it sticks. PL600 is based on the same technique but with faster drying time.

If you want to tear down the house when you take down the studs, use some adhesive like Casco Superfix or PL400.

/Kent
 
Hi, I've got the studs up now, I used 8mm nail plugs for the base plate/top plate, and for the sides, I screwed diagonally down into the nearby wall's base plate and up into the top plate. I also removed plasterboard and installed diagonal studs in the nearby wall so I could screw 70mm wood screws from the side studs into the nearby wall. The sides are now attached in three places on the nearby wall (both sides) and since I used 2x4 studs, it's super stable :)

Thanks for all the replies! Now it's time to get OSB and plasterboard!! I'm itching to get started :P
 
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