Hello!
I have built the foundation and hopefully, during the holiday season, I will start constructing an extension of about 30 m3. The building will form an L in one corner of the house with a crawl space. The house was built in 1937 with a basement.
I built the foundation up to the basement wall of the house, where the house's sill then lies. However, the sill of the house is about 15 cm thick, and the floor joists in the house then become about 15 cm high, so this already builds up almost 30 cm, then tongue-and-groove wooden floors (2.1 cm) plus chipboard (1.0 cm) makes a total height of about 33.1 cm.
The problem is I was thinking of using a sill of 45x145 treated wood for the extension and then having 45x195 for floor joists, with floor chipboards (2.2 cm). This gives a height of 26.2 cm.
The difference between the extension and the existing floor in the house is then 6.9 cm....
Now to the question;
can one build the sill with 2 pieces of 45x145 to get a height of 90x145, then use 45x220 for floor joists plus floor chipboard 2.2 cm = height of 33.2, which is significantly better, but more expensive
Would this work???
//Niklas
I have built the foundation and hopefully, during the holiday season, I will start constructing an extension of about 30 m3. The building will form an L in one corner of the house with a crawl space. The house was built in 1937 with a basement.
I built the foundation up to the basement wall of the house, where the house's sill then lies. However, the sill of the house is about 15 cm thick, and the floor joists in the house then become about 15 cm high, so this already builds up almost 30 cm, then tongue-and-groove wooden floors (2.1 cm) plus chipboard (1.0 cm) makes a total height of about 33.1 cm.
The problem is I was thinking of using a sill of 45x145 treated wood for the extension and then having 45x195 for floor joists, with floor chipboards (2.2 cm). This gives a height of 26.2 cm.
The difference between the extension and the existing floor in the house is then 6.9 cm....
Now to the question;
can one build the sill with 2 pieces of 45x145 to get a height of 90x145, then use 45x220 for floor joists plus floor chipboard 2.2 cm = height of 33.2, which is significantly better, but more expensive
Would this work???
//Niklas
According to the latest findings, you should not use pressure-treated wood in the sill.
How have you planned the construction? Are you going to have a sill consisting of a 45x145 on edge and then the floor joists standing on top of it?
How have you planned the construction? Are you going to have a sill consisting of a 45x145 on edge and then the floor joists standing on top of it?
90*145 stacked on each other probably......I'll have to plug the first one and fasten the second one to it with a screw....Then set the structure on it.. should be fine. that..
I've used pressure-treated no poisons nowadays in it?
Best regards
I've used pressure-treated no poisons nowadays in it?
Best regards
PX-21
from what I've understood, it's not too bad to use treated wood in the sill today, no direct toxins to speak of like they had in the past,
however, I've heard both for and against using treated or not, but it feels safer in some way to have a beam in an area with various climates (humid, cold, etc.) that is protected than one that isn't... but I could be wrong ??!!
yes, that's what I've thought, in order to level the extension's floor with the rest of the house.
from what I've understood, it's not too bad to use treated wood in the sill today, no direct toxins to speak of like they had in the past,
however, I've heard both for and against using treated or not, but it feels safer in some way to have a beam in an area with various climates (humid, cold, etc.) that is protected than one that isn't... but I could be wrong ??!!
Many have been forced to replace their treated sill, at tremendous costs, due to odor problems. It's mainly houses from the 1970s that are affected. Whether today's treated wood smells less (better? ) when it gets damp, I don't know.
In the small shed, I used treated wood on the outer frame of the floor structure, but didn't dare use treated wood for the floor joists, precisely because of the risk of odor. I consider the outer frame to be positioned such that the risk of odor entering is not very high. But I was definitely torn about the decision. The fact that treated wood is also made from much poorer quality lumber than studs means there is also a structural integrity aspect to consider.
You can have the same reasoning: will potential odor enter the house, or will it be ventilated out through the crawl space? Don't forget that you should have a negative pressure in the house (at least you should), so any gaps between indoors and the crawl space mean you're drawing air in from the crawl space.
) when it gets damp, I don't know.In the small shed, I used treated wood on the outer frame of the floor structure, but didn't dare use treated wood for the floor joists, precisely because of the risk of odor. I consider the outer frame to be positioned such that the risk of odor entering is not very high. But I was definitely torn about the decision. The fact that treated wood is also made from much poorer quality lumber than studs means there is also a structural integrity aspect to consider.
You can have the same reasoning: will potential odor enter the house, or will it be ventilated out through the crawl space? Don't forget that you should have a negative pressure in the house (at least you should), so any gaps between indoors and the crawl space mean you're drawing air in from the crawl space.
I used untreated.
First laid a layer of roofing felt 2-3 mm thick.
Then a strip of something resembling plastig foam rubber about 1 cm thick (before it was compressed).
With this, I treated the studs with cuprinol.
Anders
First laid a layer of roofing felt 2-3 mm thick.
Then a strip of something resembling plastig foam rubber about 1 cm thick (before it was compressed).
With this, I treated the studs with cuprinol.
Anders
hmm !
well, you do start to wonder what to actually use, when one says one thing and another says something else...
but as I said, just have to hope that it works well with the pressure treated wood anyway.
I will be laying asphalt paper at the bottom as well.
however, I don't know what that foam rubber thing is that you added? why would you use one of those?
well, you do start to wonder what to actually use, when one says one thing and another says something else...
but as I said, just have to hope that it works well with the pressure treated wood anyway.
I will be laying asphalt paper at the bottom as well.
however, I don't know what that foam rubber thing is that you added? why would you use one of those?