Hello,
I am planning to build a summer house in timber this spring and have some questions about the wall thickness. Initially, I was thinking of a basic frame of 95 mm (excluding plaster, facade...), but now I'm considering going for 120 mm instead, believing it might be cheaper for heating during winter. The difference in material costs isn't significant, but the question is whether the heating savings will justify it. The house will be approximately 70m2 (9x7 meters + entrance porch). We won't be there much during winter, about once a month.
I am planning to build a summer house in timber this spring and have some questions about the wall thickness. Initially, I was thinking of a basic frame of 95 mm (excluding plaster, facade...), but now I'm considering going for 120 mm instead, believing it might be cheaper for heating during winter. The difference in material costs isn't significant, but the question is whether the heating savings will justify it. The house will be approximately 70m2 (9x7 meters + entrance porch). We won't be there much during winter, about once a month.
it's stupid to build too weak. I think you should go for 145 +45 exterior +45 interior
Yes, at least 145+45.
Thanks for all the answers. Ok, so "fully" insulated is 200>. Sounds a bit overkill for a holiday house, but everything is relative.
Don't some choose to place the 45 wall externally? I feel there's a certain risk that the rooms shrink, but on the other hand, it's easier to run electricity
My budget isn't that large, so I was thinking of 120 and possibly 45 internally on top of that, isn't that enough? I should add that I'm planning to have a small crawl loft. What about the strength then, maybe 145 load-bearing after all?
As mentioned, I'm planning to have a crawl loft and an open ceiling solution in the rest. I'm wondering about a suitable roof truss construction, any tips? Also, how high should the upper part be? I'm not aiming for full ceiling height.
Then I think 2.40 seems a bit high for a holiday house. Is there a requirement for that height, is it unwise to build lower?
Don't some choose to place the 45 wall externally? I feel there's a certain risk that the rooms shrink, but on the other hand, it's easier to run electricity
My budget isn't that large, so I was thinking of 120 and possibly 45 internally on top of that, isn't that enough? I should add that I'm planning to have a small crawl loft. What about the strength then, maybe 145 load-bearing after all?
As mentioned, I'm planning to have a crawl loft and an open ceiling solution in the rest. I'm wondering about a suitable roof truss construction, any tips? Also, how high should the upper part be? I'm not aiming for full ceiling height.
Then I think 2.40 seems a bit high for a holiday house. Is there a requirement for that height, is it unwise to build lower?
You can put the 45 on the outside if you want. It’s just a matter of choice.
But what does your calculation for the house look like? Increasing the insulation and stud thickness by 50mm is a very small part of the total cost. There are probably many other things to save on where more money can be found.
But what does your calculation for the house look like? Increasing the insulation and stud thickness by 50mm is a very small part of the total cost. There are probably many other things to save on where more money can be found.
What kind of heating should you have? Should you have basic heating on? Set to cold? I think it's better to insulate properly from the start, as cottages tend to be used more than intended.. Go with 145+45 internally!! Regarding the roof, it would probably be best to use a glulam beam as the primary beam (at the ridge) and planks as secondary beams (from ridge to wall plate). Check out some of the manufacturers, they usually have easy construction guides.
Build it fully insulated if the cost doesn't skyrocket too much. It will be easier to sell later as a permanent residence for a single person or couple, for example. The house gets a completely different use. Suddenly, you might want to celebrate Christmas and New Year's there. If you heat the house with a stove, you'll have a longer time before it cools down with a well-insulated house. So I would probably recommend that when you're already building and spending on the exterior, roof, foundation, and interior walls, don't skimp on an extra dm in ceiling height, wall thickness, or windows.
In this thread , some calculations are made on the cost of insulating with an additional 45 mm, and if these calculations are correct, each additional 45 mm would cost you about 9000 SEK on your exterior walls. Do you even need to consider not fully insulating the house then? Calculate what the paint, wallpaper, drywall, and everything else will cost. If your budget is so tight that you can't insulate the house to a normal standard for 20000 SEK, then perhaps it is not advisable to build a house because then you probably won't manage the operating costs.
I built a guest house/multi-generational home (single-story with full basement) (40m2 BYA, 33.6m2 living space) in 2007/08 for year-round use. I calculated it and found that a structure of 95mm plus externally placed 70mm was optimal. A considerable amount of steel angles (Biltema being the cheapest) was used for the outer laying beams because the facade will be supported by the outer wall section. The angles should mostly be placed above the horizontal beam in the standing frame. Locking with nails here and there doesn't hurt.
The important thing for a recreational house is perhaps not whether you have 165mm or 200mm insulation BUT that the right material for wind protection externally and vapor barrier internally is used (and especially important in the roof and how the roof's construction is made concerning ventilation and moisture risks on the roof's plywood.) I have also sealed all joints both outside and inside - partly with foam and partly between internal gypsum and ceiling panels with painter's caulk (Cheapy has the cheapest painter's caulk). Around windows internally - each joint progressively inwards as claddings, etc., are completed.
This house is a research project, as I study/research optimal solutions for self-building. Precision in execution is more important than the last centimeters of insulation. My internal sealing with painter's caulk increased the indoor temperature by 1.5-2 degrees in the shower room. The remaining seals are underway.
If the house is to be the best, you should have an internal installation wall inside the vapor barrier, both in the ceiling (70mm) and in the wall (45mm), so that you eliminate/minimize the passage of electrical pipes/cables, i.e., electrical installations in the vapor barrier.
Another thing for the house's health in the long run is how the house's ventilation is done. But it's more complicated (and another question), but it doesn't need to be as expensive as the ventilation industry likes to make it seem.
The important thing for a recreational house is perhaps not whether you have 165mm or 200mm insulation BUT that the right material for wind protection externally and vapor barrier internally is used (and especially important in the roof and how the roof's construction is made concerning ventilation and moisture risks on the roof's plywood.) I have also sealed all joints both outside and inside - partly with foam and partly between internal gypsum and ceiling panels with painter's caulk (Cheapy has the cheapest painter's caulk). Around windows internally - each joint progressively inwards as claddings, etc., are completed.
This house is a research project, as I study/research optimal solutions for self-building. Precision in execution is more important than the last centimeters of insulation. My internal sealing with painter's caulk increased the indoor temperature by 1.5-2 degrees in the shower room. The remaining seals are underway.
If the house is to be the best, you should have an internal installation wall inside the vapor barrier, both in the ceiling (70mm) and in the wall (45mm), so that you eliminate/minimize the passage of electrical pipes/cables, i.e., electrical installations in the vapor barrier.
Another thing for the house's health in the long run is how the house's ventilation is done. But it's more complicated (and another question), but it doesn't need to be as expensive as the ventilation industry likes to make it seem.
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I built a guesthouse/generational dwelling (single-story with full basement) (40m2 building area, 33.6m2 living space) in 2007/08 for year-round use. I calculated and found that a 95mm frame + externally mounted 70mm was optimal. A lot of steel angles (Biltema cheapest) were used for the outer mounted joists since the facade will be supported by the outer wall section. The angles should mostly be placed above the horizontal joist in the standing frame. Locking here and there with nails doesn’t hurt. For a vacation home, what's important may not be having 165mm or 200mm insulation BUT the right materials for wind protection externally and vapor barrier internally (particularly important in the roof and how the roof construction is done regarding ventilation and moisture risks on the underlay board.) I have also sealed all joints both externally and internally - partly with foam and partly between the internal drywall and ceiling panel with painter's caulk (painter's caulk cheapest at Cheapy) This house is a research project as I study/research optimal solutions for self-building. Attention to detail in execution is more important than the last centimeters. My internal sealing with painter's caulk increased the indoor temperature by 1.5-2 degrees in the shower room. Remaining joints are underway. If the house is to be the best, you should have an internal installation wall inside the vapor barrier, both in the ceiling (70mm) and in the wall (45mm) so that you eliminate/minimize passage of electrical conduits/cables, i.e., electrical installations within the vapor barrier. Another thing for the long-term health of the house is how the ventilation of the house is done. But that is more complicated (and another question), but it doesn’t have to be as expensive as the ventilation industry would like to make it.