Our door trim is poorly installed, creating a small gap (about 1 - 2 mm) between the trim and the wall (i.e. the molding nailed to the wall next to the doors). The gap is quite noticeable because both the trim and the wall are white, creating a black shadow there.
Instead of driving more nails to secure it (which wouldn't look nice), I'm considering applying a white soft sealant in the gap instead. If I choose latex, it should be paintable if the white sealant contrasts too much with the Stockholm white wall color.
I've never seen or heard of anyone doing this. Is there any reason it's a bad idea, or should I just go ahead?
Instead of driving more nails to secure it (which wouldn't look nice), I'm considering applying a white soft sealant in the gap instead. If I choose latex, it should be paintable if the white sealant contrasts too much with the Stockholm white wall color.
I've never seen or heard of anyone doing this. Is there any reason it's a bad idea, or should I just go ahead?
I think it looks best to hide all gaps with a soft sealant. You should not use latex as it dries and becomes hard. Instead, use Sikaflex AT, which becomes rubbery and retains its softness over time. There is also Cascol multifog and Bostik multifog if I remember correctly. Cascol can be obtained in different colors, with the NCS color code listed on the tube. These can also be painted over with good results without cracking like latex does.
I have searched for Casco multifog because it has the exact same color code as my walls, but it is hard to find. I have been running around several large hardware stores in Stockholm (Beijer, Bauhaus, Fredells). Do you know where I can find it?
Fredells has it on the shelf between the paint mixing counter and the wallpaper exhibition, it's called S 30 or S 20 and is available in different NCS codes. I'll check if I'm giving the wrong name but I think it's called multifog.....will get back.....
Here is the link to their product sheet. It's called Multibygg and not multifog as I wrote earlier, sorry for that. But it's really good anyway and fredells has it on the shelf.
http://www.cascose.dk/_upl/pdf/produktblade/Multibygg S 30.pdf
http://www.cascose.dk/_upl/pdf/produktblade/Multibygg S 30.pdf
I always use latex for joints on white moldings.
I don't understand what would become too hard. And the paint blends well with the moldings.
Edited. There isn't a latex crack. And I think everything fits like h_ll. However, latex doesn't work outdoors.
I don't understand what would become too hard. And the paint blends well with the moldings.
Edited. There isn't a latex crack. And I think everything fits like h_ll. However, latex doesn't work outdoors.
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Sure, it might work sometimes. But if you apply latex one day and paint the same or the next day, it is very likely to crack after a few weeks. This doesn't happen with sealant that is not water-based, as it doesn't shrink when it dries. Furthermore, it doesn't yellow and is available in different shades, including S 0502-Y, which is a commonly used white color.
NOT NOT NOT!jerk said:
I work as a building painter myself and have done that task more times than the trees have leaves.
It never cracks!
You can apply a latex/acrylic sealant and paint over it directly (provided you're using water-soluble paint) without any problem.
Bostik's Latex Compound is otherwise the best on the market, in my opinion.
It can also freeze—just thaw it in the sink and use. Unlike other latex compounds on the market.
Then the fact that a latex sealant yellows is beside the point, a sealant in a painted area should always be painted over according to me.
Especially when it comes to woodwork since the gloss differs significantly between paint and sealant.
As I interpret it, there is nothing in the thread starter about using the joint to hold the trim in place.
ogren wrote - "instead of hammering in more nails so that it sits well (which doesn't look nice), I'm considering if I can apply a white soft joint in the gap instead."
In other words, nailing more into the trim so that it sits correctly/neatly/properly, not to attach?
ogren wrote - "instead of hammering in more nails so that it sits well (which doesn't look nice), I'm considering if I can apply a white soft joint in the gap instead."
In other words, nailing more into the trim so that it sits correctly/neatly/properly, not to attach?
Go ahead and try, then. If you claim to be a painter. Squeeze out a dollop of latex and Sikabond AT or Casco S30, let it dry for half a year, and feel the consistency to compare which is harder. If I were to guess, you probably have never used products other than latex. The products are actually intended for purposes with significantly higher requirements and adhesion capabilities than latex, hence the price. Latex becomes hard like plastic compared to the others, which are an entirely different product that can't really be compared in this way. That's why I recommend this.
Hard as plastic?
It's not soft like silicone if that's what you mean, but it's not hard. There's no problem pressing a nail into it. And there's nothing wrong with the adhesion. For example, I took down a gypsum board last week that was sealed with latex directly in the joint... I had to cut it loose and thought, damn, it's really sticking to the bare gypsum. Not the paper.
It's not soft like silicone if that's what you mean, but it's not hard. There's no problem pressing a nail into it. And there's nothing wrong with the adhesion. For example, I took down a gypsum board last week that was sealed with latex directly in the joint... I had to cut it loose and thought, damn, it's really sticking to the bare gypsum. Not the paper.