There is a piece of wall missing in my closet, found a board (I think chipboard, quite heavy, about 12 mm thick, light yellow) in the storeroom that I measured and sawed. I nailed strips both across and lengthwise to have something to saw after, but it's not that great with a cheap model hand saw... 
At least not with me at one end... Because when I finally got the board up to the closet it was a few millimeters too big either here or there...
So! How do I remove these the easiest? I was thinking of going to buy a circular saw (saw that there was one for about 200 SEK at Biltema) but heard that you can't cut less than 5 mm with it? Sanding is one thought, but it's about 180 cm and feels quite tedious... Is there some sort of plane maybe?
What would you have done? Gratefully accepting tips!
At least not with me at one end... Because when I finally got the board up to the closet it was a few millimeters too big either here or there...So! How do I remove these the easiest? I was thinking of going to buy a circular saw (saw that there was one for about 200 SEK at Biltema) but heard that you can't cut less than 5 mm with it? Sanding is one thought, but it's about 180 cm and feels quite tedious... Is there some sort of plane maybe?
What would you have done? Gratefully accepting tips!
It works great to cut less than 5 mm.
You attach/screw something like a ruler onto the board to act as a guide for the saw.
The 5 mm is probably if you use the guide that comes with the saw. That guide is then attached to the saw and must clear the blade, which is about 2 mm wide.
You attach/screw something like a ruler onto the board to act as a guide for the saw.
The 5 mm is probably if you use the guide that comes with the saw. That guide is then attached to the saw and must clear the blade, which is about 2 mm wide.
Press the board against the wall and hold it as straight as you can. Then take a pencil and hold it along the other (already existing) wall. Draw on the board while ensuring that it rests against the other wall. You will get pencil marks on the spots that need filing down and no pencil marks where it's already okay. Then the board will fit perfectly. I don't know if I'm explaining well enough.....
Thank you so much for your replies!!!
I can borrow a power planer from someone at work, but it doesn't seem very suitable considering it's a particleboard..?
In that case, what's better, a hand rasp or a hand planer? Both are available at Biltema and cost between 30-60 kr so that's affordable!
Honestly, planing sounds better than rasping in terms of work, but I could be wrong?
And maybe it's difficult to plane a particleboard??
(what is a surform?)
Otherwise, a circular saw for 200 kr seems very convenient! If it's not extremely difficult to saw that small (it's probably like you wrote, Linenx, that at least 5 mm is needed with the guide)..
But the question time-wise is whether it's faster to plane. With a saw, I also need to buy clamps and find something long enough to secure. When I sawed by hand, I nailed a strip to the part I was cutting off and moved it as I sawed a bit...
nimhed- your tip sounds great, the problem is that I'm putting the board in a corner, there's a slanted ceiling, a drop between the floor and where the wall should be, as well as into the adjacent wall..
I'm supposed to fit my wallboard into the gap between the floor and the wall, get it into the gap in the corner, and manage to straighten it despite the slanted ceiling.
It's really hard to see where it's off in size!! But I'll try to check it more carefully before I start sawing again!
If I get it in at the top, it won't fit at the bottom and vice versa.
Here's another question...
It's about 3 mm thinner than the wallboard next to it.. Surely I can put some paper behind the nail to get the right thickness? (it's in a closet after all)
I can borrow a power planer from someone at work, but it doesn't seem very suitable considering it's a particleboard..?
In that case, what's better, a hand rasp or a hand planer? Both are available at Biltema and cost between 30-60 kr so that's affordable!
Honestly, planing sounds better than rasping in terms of work, but I could be wrong?
And maybe it's difficult to plane a particleboard??
(what is a surform?)
Otherwise, a circular saw for 200 kr seems very convenient! If it's not extremely difficult to saw that small (it's probably like you wrote, Linenx, that at least 5 mm is needed with the guide)..
But the question time-wise is whether it's faster to plane. With a saw, I also need to buy clamps and find something long enough to secure. When I sawed by hand, I nailed a strip to the part I was cutting off and moved it as I sawed a bit...
nimhed- your tip sounds great, the problem is that I'm putting the board in a corner, there's a slanted ceiling, a drop between the floor and where the wall should be, as well as into the adjacent wall..
I'm supposed to fit my wallboard into the gap between the floor and the wall, get it into the gap in the corner, and manage to straighten it despite the slanted ceiling.
It's really hard to see where it's off in size!! But I'll try to check it more carefully before I start sawing again!
If I get it in at the top, it won't fit at the bottom and vice versa.
Here's another question...
It's about 3 mm thinner than the wallboard next to it.. Surely I can put some paper behind the nail to get the right thickness? (it's in a closet after all)
Electric planer burns the cutters on shavings.
Use 3 mm masonite as a spacer.
With a circular saw, you can cut as little as you want with a ruler.
If you're going to paint/wallpaper, don't worry if you remove a little too much. It will be covered by molding and/or sealing.
Use 3 mm masonite as a spacer.
With a circular saw, you can cut as little as you want with a ruler.
If you're going to paint/wallpaper, don't worry if you remove a little too much. It will be covered by molding and/or sealing.
Ah, thanks for that! Considering that I have good studs to mount it against, it feels like it should rather be too small than too large at this point anyway...
I've gotten some of that fabric tape to fill the gaps with, so hopefully it turns out well (yep, I'm planning to wallpaper and paint).
Now it's heavily leaning towards buying a circular saw!!
Considering that I have good studs to mount it against, it feels like it should rather be too small than too large at this point anyway...I've gotten some of that fabric tape to fill the gaps with, so hopefully it turns out well (yep, I'm planning to wallpaper and paint).
Now it's heavily leaning towards buying a circular saw!!
This I have for plaster.Immobil said:Surform: [link]
http://www.harald-nyborg.se/merinfo.asp?varenr=1964&Grp=&n=10&KundeID=
For particle board, a regular wood rasp would probably be the quickest and easiest. Draw as nimhed suggested, then rasp. A surform plane is great for gypsum board. An electric planer seems just dumb and ineffective. A circular saw gives the best cut and precision if you guide it against some kind of rail (a long level, a straight edge on a long board, a shelf board, a wardrobe door, etc., etc.). But that might be unnecessarily precise.
Don't use paper/cardboard behind it, it doesn't feel sturdy enough. 3 or 3.2 mm masonite, on the other hand, is excellent.
Don't use paper/cardboard behind it, it doesn't feel sturdy enough. 3 or 3.2 mm masonite, on the other hand, is excellent.
Thanks for the tips once again! Especially not to put newspaper behind, it's frustrating when you've started wallpapering and then realize it wasn't a good idea..
Regarding Masonite.. a silly question (sorry): Is it available to buy in smaller pieces/sheets? If you know, that is..
Upon closer inspection of the board, there's not much I need to remove so now I'm leaning towards a plane or possibly a rasp again..
I also saw after a search that the Surform plane was cheaply available on places like HN. You mentioned it works well on plaster, but what about chipboard? Does it work on that too?
But maybe a wood rasp could work, I just remember woodshop and endless filing without much result.. Hopeless, really..
Regarding Masonite.. a silly question (sorry): Is it available to buy in smaller pieces/sheets? If you know, that is..
Upon closer inspection of the board, there's not much I need to remove so now I'm leaning towards a plane or possibly a rasp again..
I also saw after a search that the Surform plane was cheaply available on places like HN. You mentioned it works well on plaster, but what about chipboard? Does it work on that too?
But maybe a wood rasp could work, I just remember woodshop and endless filing without much result.. Hopeless, really..
Not directly as far as I know. But if you're at a hardware store, like almost any (Bauhaus, Beijers etc.), you can always check where they cut sheets for customers. It would be very strange if there weren't some Masonit scraps there that you can get or pay a nominal fee for.tralopp said:
Otherwise, there might also be leftovers at Biltema, Plantagen, Rusta, Onoff, you name it, which have been packing material. For example, typically as packaging over pallets with pallet collar for large bulky items. They'd probably gladly give away a pallet-sized sheet so they don't have to discard it themselves.
Absolutely, it works great on chipboard.tralopp said:
In school, you had to file, but now you've grown up and can use heavier artillery. :eek:
The rasp has significantly more effect than a file, but the Surform is a tad sharper.