Hello!
I'm in the process of fixing up a cottage that stands on piers, and the deck that was there has been dismantled (pick-up-sticks).
Does anyone have tips on how to anchor it to the cottage?
There is no direct "foot" that could serve as a bolted fixture.
Cottages often move a bit, it's about 52 square meters, and I'm pondering if it makes sense to build the deck as an "independent" structure with piers even at the "foot" of the cottage.
Advice and sketches/pictures would be invaluable.
Some of the piers are tilted, and I'm also considering the best way to create a foundation for a straightened pier (I have a drill, but you can't really reach under the house with it) the ground is soil and there's no bedrock.
Thinking and as mentioned, advice before the snow comes is really needed!
Thanks in advance!
I'm in the process of fixing up a cottage that stands on piers, and the deck that was there has been dismantled (pick-up-sticks).
Does anyone have tips on how to anchor it to the cottage?
There is no direct "foot" that could serve as a bolted fixture.
Cottages often move a bit, it's about 52 square meters, and I'm pondering if it makes sense to build the deck as an "independent" structure with piers even at the "foot" of the cottage.
Advice and sketches/pictures would be invaluable.
Some of the piers are tilted, and I'm also considering the best way to create a foundation for a straightened pier (I have a drill, but you can't really reach under the house with it) the ground is soil and there's no bedrock.
Thinking and as mentioned, advice before the snow comes is really needed!
Thanks in advance!
How you should proceed entirely depends on where you wish to set the level for the job. Align the cabin completely so it doesn't move at all, or accept that the cabin moves and only align the most slanted posts.
It looks like the posts are almost directly on the ground. Is that the case?
In any case, lift the house around one or several posts with a jack so you can remove the slanted post. Place the jack on a sturdy plank and also have an equally sturdy one on top to distribute the force on the floor beam/support beam. A simple cheap hydraulic jack is sufficient. If you are going to lift more than 1 cm, you should open the windows and doors directly adjacent to the lift.
Ideally, you should then dig down to frost-free depth. If the house is heavy, you must create an enlargement (bigger base area) at the bottom. But it doesn’t seem like you need that. The important thing is probably to go down at least one meter, preferably 1.5. Frost-free is about 1.6-1.7 m where you are in Gävleborg, but such cold winters as this is based on are probably not going to happen again. Cast a new post to the new level you need to get a horizontal house.
If you think it sounds arduous to dig so many posts so deep, you can only cast a larger base plate to the existing post so that it stands more steady. To reduce the frost's penetration under the post, ground insulation can be placed around the post. At least one meter (preferably more) around the post should be applied for it to have some effect.
Good luck with the digging!
It looks like the posts are almost directly on the ground. Is that the case?
In any case, lift the house around one or several posts with a jack so you can remove the slanted post. Place the jack on a sturdy plank and also have an equally sturdy one on top to distribute the force on the floor beam/support beam. A simple cheap hydraulic jack is sufficient. If you are going to lift more than 1 cm, you should open the windows and doors directly adjacent to the lift.
Ideally, you should then dig down to frost-free depth. If the house is heavy, you must create an enlargement (bigger base area) at the bottom. But it doesn’t seem like you need that. The important thing is probably to go down at least one meter, preferably 1.5. Frost-free is about 1.6-1.7 m where you are in Gävleborg, but such cold winters as this is based on are probably not going to happen again. Cast a new post to the new level you need to get a horizontal house.
If you think it sounds arduous to dig so many posts so deep, you can only cast a larger base plate to the existing post so that it stands more steady. To reduce the frost's penetration under the post, ground insulation can be placed around the post. At least one meter (preferably more) around the post should be applied for it to have some effect.
Good luck with the digging!
Thank you for your opinions and advice!
It seems that under the tilted plinths there is some type of loose stone (not particularly large though).
I will probably make a "push" and dig down properly.
Assuming the cabin becomes stable, how do I attach a load-bearing anchor to the cabin?
A long glue-laminated beam?
Thanks again for your answer!
It seems that under the tilted plinths there is some type of loose stone (not particularly large though).
I will probably make a "push" and dig down properly.
Assuming the cabin becomes stable, how do I attach a load-bearing anchor to the cabin?
A long glue-laminated beam?
Thanks again for your answer!
Glulam beam is a bit overkill for a deck.
A treated 45x195 is sufficient, which you attach with lag screws directly onto the facade. Just make sure you get support by screwing them into either the standing wall studs, the sill, or the bearing beam. Just attaching to the facade boards is not enough.
I myself have dug about 20 pillars under a house as crooked as yours.
It's hard work, but then you know it stands stable.
A treated 45x195 is sufficient, which you attach with lag screws directly onto the facade. Just make sure you get support by screwing them into either the standing wall studs, the sill, or the bearing beam. Just attaching to the facade boards is not enough.
I myself have dug about 20 pillars under a house as crooked as yours.
It's hard work, but then you know it stands stable.